North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Bill Russell" <shaman@pennswoods.net>]

I found that 1/2" mesh thin nylon bird netting, 6' high keeps the deer from
scarfing my veggies and fruit. I've been told that they do not like to
contact something that they can feel but not clearly see. Old wife's tale or
what? Anyway, it keeps the deer away.

A 6" high electric wire keeps the groundhogs at bay.

Bill

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "NAFEX List" <nafexlist@hotmail.com>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:39 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] Deer and electric fences


> At one time I also thought an electric fence was the way to go.
Experience
> changed my mind.  Low tech (woven wire, no electrical wires) has been
> simpler and more effective.
>
> My experience with electric fence has been less than impressive.  Didn't
> work for me; might work for you depending upon your circumstances.  I did
a
> fair amount of research and followed recommendations for spacing,
grounding
> for dry conditions, etc.  I tried it for about 4 year before going to
woven
> wire.  Too much winter browsing.
>
> The fence was 8' high.  It was high tension, using the specialized high
> tension wire, tensioners, cross-bracing and anchors at the corners and
> gates, etc.  It consisted of horizontal wires only, except for support
> posts.  I don't recall the exact spacing but I think the bottom 4-5 wires
> were spaced 6-18 inches apart (closer at the bottom) lower wires
> electrified, with alternating hot-ground at higher levels.  Having some of
> the wires be grounds is good for jumping through (touch two wires and
> complete the circuit, or in dry conditions where the real ground can't
alway
> be relied upon to close the circuit.  (I live in an area where things dry
> out in the late summer and autumn.)  I also had a ground along the dirt
> level.  The ground wires were connect to three standard grounding rods.
>
> Had an on-off switch separate from the pulse generator.  The pulse
generator
> was in my garage where I could see the "fence status" indicator, including
> the somewhat irritating click-click-click as each pulse is generated.   I
> also had a lightning arrestor.  The generator was the standard high
voltage
> kind.  I did eventually get a specialized light (to indicate when the
fence
> is active) but never got around to installing it.
>
> Installing it was overall an interesting experience.  High tension wire is
> best removed using a specialized spool, which I also bought.  (It is much
> more difficult to control than standard wire.)  There are tapes and meshes
> that would probably be easier to use and less demanding to support.
>
>
> Here are the problems:
>
> At times the fence would get shorted out (broken brace wire, fallen
branch,
> arcing) or the breaker would trip, etc.  It's tough to tell when fence is
> electrified without a meter to periodically check this.  Since deer are
most
> desperate to get in their when you are not out there (winter) there were
> times that I wouldn't discover until after the fact that my electified
fence
> wasn't.
>
> There are also times that I'm sure that the fence was electrified and the
> deer went in any way.  I don't know if starvation trumps getting shocked,
> but whatever the motivation, they did get in at times when the fence
seemed
> operational.
>
> I never did try try the "peanut butter" trick or use an offset electrified
> wire at chest height, etc.
>
> I converted to double height woven wire (hog fence) and stretched it using
a
> yoke (consisting of two boards bolted together at the end of the fence)
> attached to the front-end loader of a tractor.  If you choose to do this
use
> care, since problems can arise from over-stretching the wire or having the
> bucket too high.  I was careful and did OK.
>
> I now have an 8' high woven wire fence.  I used the old wooden supports,
> with intermediate support from standard steel fence posts and 8' rebar
> (using standard twist wire-ties.)  No deer.  No maintenance. Works night
and
> day, summer and winter, spring and fall.  No need to check.  Visually
about
> the same an electric fence in my humble opinion.  Also nicer should you be
> working next to it, as no need to turn off or remember to turn back on
when
> you are done.  Touching your back against a high voltage wire feels like
> some one hitting you in the flank with a 2x4 as hard as they can.  Can
also
> hang things on the woven wire, use as a trellis on the north end, etc.
>
> I think electric fences are great for controlling domestic animals, but am
> unimpressed with their ability to control some wild animals.  Good for
> coyotes, borderline for deer, worthless for porcupines (but then woven
wire
> is too--they just climb over.)  I think almost any electric fence will be
> effective against the "casual" deer, but I have seen deer jump over my
> neighbor's 5' electric fence--as they were casually making their way
across
> a field about dusk.  Didn't look like they were even trying all that hard
to
> do it.  Did it from a stand--no run, no nothing.
>
> The high tension wire has proven useful for trellises or containment
fences
> for grapes, raspberries, and blackberries, so it hasn't been a total loss.
>
> BTW, electrified barbed wire is considered a no-no, since if you (or an
> animal) gets hung up on the barbs, you will be shocked repeatedly.  Most
> manuals say not to electrify barbed wire.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
>
> regards,
>
> GREG MILLER
> Spokane, WA
> USDA Zone 6a
>
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