North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Megrette Hammond" <megdanh@comcast.net>]

I'm just a little ahead of you on the learning curve.  I've got 30 apple
trees in the ground ranging in age from 6 years to just transplanted.  I've
had borer damage to just one tree and it was unmistakable.  The hole was
roughly the size of a pencil or fat knitting needle in diameter but the dead
give away was the bright orange sawdust like stuff (frass) at the opening of
the whole.  This the grub's droppings and lets you know it is an active
hole.  After several attempts at spraying insecticide up the hole with no
result (I continued to observe fresh frass)  I inserted a stiff but still
flexible thin wire (like the stuff florists use) and skewered the little
bugger.  After eliminating the grub I carved away the spongy wood along the
path of the bore hole.  This left an unsightly channel but it is healing.
    Apparently the preferred zone of borer activity is on the main trunk
from just above ground level to 2 or so feet off the ground.  Regular
observation of this zone will let know if you have a borer problem.  If you
switch to using those spiral tree guards you'll have to peel them back to
check but your window screening sounds like the Cadillac of solutions.
    Hopefully our more experienced comrades can chime in with more info but
I hope I helped.

       Good Luck,

                                        Dan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason MacArthur" <rotread@localnet.com>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 6:54 AM
Subject: [NAFEX] apple borers


> As a beginning apple grower in New England, with a small orchard of
> dwarf trees, what do I need to know about apple borers?  I have put up
> window screen cylinders with foam collars to keep borers out, and I am
> willing to scout the trees regularly.  However, I don't know how big a
> hole I should be looking for.  Any one have any recommendations for how
> to deter and how to recognize borer damage in apples?
>
>
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