|
Gordon,
I got my interstems from good ole Bear Creek. They appear to have
been (if my memory serves) saddle grafted. My guess is that the rootstock,
interstem and scion were 'assembled' at the same time (at least for some of the
trees) based on the size and healing of the grafts. It is possible that
some scions had been put on interstems made the previous year, but the one that
I studied closely seemed to have been grafted all at once.
My Honeycrisps on 118, were whip and tongued by Frank Folz of Northwind
nursery and were in their 3rd leaf this past summer (first leaf was the grafting
season) and don't appear to have spurs for next year. The interstems
fruited in their fourth leaf and are bearing decently at seven years. The
interstem trees have the interstem portion buried halfway, and, although
staked, appear to be self-supporting and quite strong. I lean my trees
toward the southwest at planting as a bit of protection against sunscald.
With early heavy cropping the interstems need staking at first to support the
crop without excess leaning. As the trunks catch up to the tops, they
support the crops just fine. I have had straight Bud-9
dwarfs snap off under the weight of wind and crop when I delayed good
staking. The Bud-9/scion union on the interstem has not shown weakness
thus far, but perhaps others (Ed Fackler?) can tell us whether the union is
stronger than straight Bud-9's
The only flaw with the interstem trees was that they needed quite a bit of
work to get a dominant leader going. Without persuasion, they wanted to
form a mop rather than a nice central leader.
I fertilize the trees located in particularly thin soil with a bit of
organic vegetable garden fertilizer that is a 6-4-3 (or close to that).
They are mulched in a 3-4 foot circle with shredded oak bark of chips.
The only rootsock for apples that I buy or stool these days is
Bud-9. I graft on these with a whip and toungue. I don't have space
for any more standard or semidwarf apples, but there's still room for dwarves
here and there. I've been grafting mostly apricots and plums for the last
couple years--whip and tounge grafts in the spring. I get a much lower
percentage of takes on these, even with heat during callus formation, but what
the heck, I'm just doing it for fun.
Steve Herje, Lone Rock, WI USDA zone 3
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 8:05
AM
Subject: RE: [NAFEX] Budagovsky 118
Steve. How early did your Bud 118-Bud 9 interstems come into
bearing. Do you do much in the way of fertilization? Are the
unions strong i.e. no staking? What grafting process did you use
for the 118/9 and the 9/cultivar?
Very
curious.
Gord
Hawkes
Log
Cabin Orchard
Osgoode, Ontario, Canada, eh?
I have grown Bud 118-bud 9 interstems for about 7 years. Several
trees on nearly pure, somewhat alkaline sand are doing very well. They
do not appear to show water stress. The fruit on the interstems is
perhaps, just a bit smaller than trees on plain Bud 9's. The Bud-9's
are on good soil, however, so the comparison is not necessarily
"apples to apples".
I recently put in a few Honeycrisps on straight 118. They seems a
bit slow to establish the first year, but took off the second, putting on
2-3 feet of new growth.
An interesting observation on 118 is that is a rosybloom type. It
has beautiful deep pink blooms and appears to be fairly scab
resistant. The apples are in the apple/crab range for size, ripen here
in August, and are sweet with fairly high tannin levels.
Unlike most hardy crabs that have tannins, 118 tastes like it is
relatively low in acid levels. I plan to fruit 118's to try as a
source of tannin for hard ciders--something that is thus far almost
non-existent in zone 3 hardy apples.
Good luck with your plantings. I think that 118 will prove very
useful for folks who don't need much dwarfing.
Steve Herje, Lone Lock, WI USDA zone 3
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003
12:28 AM
Subject: [NAFEX] Budagovsky 118
Hey folks. . .
I'm seriously considering having
a decent sized block (400 trees) of heirloom apple trees
grafted onto Bud 118 this coming Spring and would like
to hear firsthand what the pros and cons may be of this rootstock relatve
to the other Standard sized cold-weather rootstocks like Antanovka,
Baccata, Ranetka or even P18. I realize the trees on Bud 118 are
going to be big and cold hardy. What I'm most interested in learning
about is the precocity, productivity and fruit sizes of trees grafted onto
this stock.
Here's a bit of what I've been able to
Google:
BUDAGOVSKY 118 (Bud
118)
"About the same vigor as
MM.111, but as winter-hardy as Antonovka. Burrknots and suckers are
rare. Productive; well-anchored." (CUMMINS
NURSERY)
"Produces
a tree 90% that of standard. The vigor of Bud 118 is particularly valuable
on dry, sandy orchard sites. This understock is resistant to collar rot
and apple scab, and slightly susceptible to crown gall and powdery mildew.
B 118 is extremely winter hardy and is recommended for replant
conditions."
(C&O
NURSERY)
"A vigorous, semi-dwarf
rootstock that produces trees roughly the same size as those grown on EMLA
111 roots. Bud 118 is from the same Russian program that created
Budagovsky 9 (Bud 9). It is extremely cold hardy, well anchored and
works with most soils." (VAN
WELL NURSERY)
Is there anybody on the list who's had
trees on Bud 118 for a number of years who'd care to share of their
personal experiences with this rootstock?
Any/all feedback greatly
appreciated.
John
* * * * *
44° 15' 45" N / 69° 19' 45"
W
_______________________________________________
nafex mailing
list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
To unsubscribe, go to the bottom
of this page (also can be used to change other email
options):
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
File
attachments are NOT stripped by this list
TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT
YOURSELF FROM COMPUTER VIRUSES!
Please do not send binary files.
Use
plain text ONLY in emails!
Message archives are
here:
https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
NAFEX web
site: http://www.nafex.org/
_______________________________________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
To unsubscribe, go to the bottom of this
page (also can be used to change other email
options):
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
File
attachments are NOT stripped by this list
TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF
FROM COMPUTER VIRUSES!
Please do not send binary files.
Use plain text
ONLY in emails!
Message archives are
here:
https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
NAFEX web
site: http://www.nafex.org/
|
