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[Mauch1@aol.com]

Although Bob Purvis taught me to be able to do dormant 
grafting of Prunus, before that (and still my method for 
field grafting of Prunus, with the exception of Peach) 
I grafted using whip & tongue after my stock started to grow, 
and I've never had problems with running sap.  I've grafted 
Plum (Japanese & European) on to St. Julian and Marianna 
2624, Apricot onto St. Julian and Marianna 2624, Sweet cherry 
onto GM61 (actually I've also done cherry grafting by 
grafting very early (before Feb 15th in my area) - 
technique thanks to F. Bunny).  I've not "late" grafted
Grape, but I would expect sap to be an issue with grape and
kiwi (and from the existing posts - Walnuts as well). 

-- 
Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6
40° 5' N    75° 51'W
~650 ft elevation


<
I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl Weschke 'Growing Nuts in 
the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the leaves start to come out (on 
planted trees), but this causes considerable sap bleeding. His method of 
getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then wait several days before 
commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this might not have merit with 
stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher temperatures to callus? I 
remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to get as much heat as 
possible, but not so late that they fill the graft with running sap. 6"snow 
today, Del
>