Skip to Content.
Sympa Menu

nafex - Re: [NAFEX] olive trees found in Bulgaria at -4'F

nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

Subject: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

List archive

Chronological Thread  
  • From: kathryn stout <kathrynwrites@yahoo.com>
  • To: hector black <hblack@twlakes.net>, North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] olive trees found in Bulgaria at -4'F
  • Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 19:11:26 -0800 (PST)







Eleagnus, Russian Olive, is not botanically related to
the mediterranean olives that bear olives to eat, for
olive oil, etc. Russian Olive is hardy (at least it
grows here, in Mass. Zone 5). It's a gray shrubby
plant used for landscaping--by people who don't mind
the fact that birds eat the fruit, spread it
everywhere. It is also a nitrogen fixer, grows in poor
sandy soil. The fruit are not olives, in any sense
comparable to mediterranean olives. Those grow in
climates like Italy, southern California,etc.

--Kathryn Stout



--- hector black <hblack@twlakes.net> wrote:
> Re: [NAFEX] olive trees found in Bulgaria at
> -4'FI'll be dipped! That really does look like an
> olive. I don't know anything about propagation.
> Any information about the size and quality of the
> fruit? With global warming, we should be able to
> grow them in many places although I know they don't
> like high humidity. I have a correspondent in
> Croatia who told me about a hardy olive they had,
> but he couldn't remember where he had seen it.
> Maybe in Bulgaria?? That's a great find, in any
> case, Mark. Must be something, somewhere on
> propagation - California Rare Fruit Growers should
> have some info.
> Hector Black, zone 6 middle TN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lon J Rombough
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 9:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] olive trees found in Bulgaria
> at -4'F
>
>
> I'm halfway suspicious that it might be Russian
> Olive (Eleagnus), but I can't tell enough from the
> picture. Hector Black? You can probably tell.
> Even if it is an olive, that doesn't mean it
> will bear. I had an uncle who had a peach tree in
> Iowa where peaches shouldn't grow, but this one did.
> But it never bore because the fruit buds are more
> tender than the leaf buds and they froze every year.
> The result was a beautiful vigorous, non-bearing
> peach tree. Might be the same with the olive - it
> would grow, but the flower buds might be frozen out.
> As to the fig, I have a Desert King that has
> survived 0 F without freezing off. The trick is to
> grow it in a dry location to force it to harden off
> well.
>
> -Lon Rombough
>
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape
> Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com
>
> From: "Mark Lee" <markl@nytec.com>
>
> Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 08:54:16 -0800
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers"
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [NAFEX] olive trees found in Bulgaria
> at -4'F
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://members3.boardhost.com/HardyPalm/msg/42578.html
>
> The link above is by a person in Bulgaria that
> has found olive trees growing
> at a local agricultural university. There are
> two picures given. One is a
> fig tree that died in a previous extremely cold
> winter. The other is of an
> olive that survived under the same conditions.
> The olive tree appears to be
> thriving, from the photo. Recent temperature in
> Bulgaria is near 0'F. I
> did some research recently that indicated that
> the hardiest olive trees
> could only survive down to about 10'F. This is
> proof that there are a few
> olive trees that are even hardier than that. No
> mention was made of the
> fruit it produces, if it happens at all. I hope
> this guy can propogate it
> and start sharing it with others.
>
> Postings at this message board are not archived,
> and in a couple of weeks it
> will be gone. I have made a copy of it for my
> own reference at
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~piper3/HardyOlives2.htm.
>
> -Mark Lee, Seattle, z7b/8a
>
> _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Most questions can be answered here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> File attachments are accepted by this list;
> please do not send binary files, plain text ONLY!
> Message archives are here:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
> To view your user options go to:
>
>
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX
> (where XXXX@XXXX is
> YOUR email address)
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Most questions can be answered here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> File attachments are accepted by this list; please
> do not send binary files, plain text ONLY!
> Message archives are here:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
> To view your user options go to:
>
>
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX
> (where XXXX@XXXX is
> YOUR email address)
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/
> > _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Most questions can be answered here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> File attachments are accepted by this list; please
> do not send binary files, plain text ONLY!
> Message archives are here:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
> To view your user options go to:
>
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX
> (where XXXX@XXXX is
> YOUR email address)
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/
>


=====


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>From paul.simon@tcs.wap.org Fri Feb 28 23:33:37 2003
Return-Path: <paul.simon@tcs.wap.org>
Delivered-To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Received: from wap.org (mail.wap.org [63.102.104.230])
by happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4966E20027
for <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>; Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:33:36 -0500 (EST)
Received: from [63.102.104.6] (HELO [63.102.104.22])
by wap.org (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0.5)
with ESMTP id 803265 for nafex@lists.ibiblio.org;
Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:32:26 -0500
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Sender: paul.simon@mailroom.wap.org
Message-Id: <a04310103ba85e710e6e2@[63.102.104.22]>
In-Reply-To: <BA85535A.B7C4%lonrom@hevanet.com>
References: <BA85535A.B7C4%lonrom@hevanet.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:34:53 -0500
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
From: paul simon <paul.simon@tcs.wap.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees wanted.
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="============_-1165629201==_ma============"
X-BeenThere: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.1
Precedence: list
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Id: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex.lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Unsubscribe: <http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex>,
<mailto:nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=unsubscribe>
List-Archive: <https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex>
List-Post: <mailto:nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Help: <mailto:sympa@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=HELP>
List-Subscribe: <http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex>,
<mailto:nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=subscribe>
X-List-Received-Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 04:33:37 -0000

--============_-1165629201==_ma============
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" ; format="flowed"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>When posting URL's of things like this, where you have to join or
>otherwise sign up some way, please either let the list know, or copy
>the article to a letter and post it to the list. I don't want to
>sign up for the Washington Post just to read the article, but it
>won't let me in any other way.
>
>
>From: paul simon <paul.simon@tcs.wap.org>
>Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:44:20 -0500
>To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees wanted.
>
>If you are looking for a citrus source, you stil have time to
>consider the YUZU variety. This was written up in the Washington
>Post food section on Feb. 27. It seems to have quite a intrest among
>chefs. I hope the enclosed link links to the article.
>http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A64490-2003Feb25.html.
>
>
>Paul S.

Lon,

I'm sorry, I thought the article was available to the public. They
must know I'm a long time subscriber. I think one must join to copy
articles after a week or month goes by.

ANYWAY, here is a copy for all. Paul S.

YUZU
Mixed Into a Martini, Drizzled Over Seafood, Turned Into Ice Cream,
It's a Fragrant Citrus That Chefs Love to Squeeze

_____Finding Yuzu_____

* Try Yuzu at Home

E-Mail This Article
Printer-Friendly Version
Permission to Republish
Subscribe to The Post
By Walter Nicholls
Washington Post Staff Writer
Wednesday, February 26, 2003; Page F01


Inside a greenhouse on Maryland's Eastern Shore, specialty farmer Ken
Suzuki grows a small, relatively rare citrus fruit that has
infatuated chefs around the world.

"Yuzu has a special smell that high-toned chefs like so much," says
Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Farm, where more than 35 varieties of
Japanese vegetables and fruits are cultivated. His six, 10-foot-high,
seven-year-old yuzu trees yield 200 pounds of the coveted citrus per
year.

"Chefs want the peel for miso soup and the juice for salad dressings
and their tofu," he says. And the long list of distinctive uses for
the little yuzu (pronounced YOU-zoo) goes on.

Stronger in flavor than lemon, with a hint of tangerine, grapefruit
and pine, yuzu -- a hybrid of the C. ichangensis and C. reticulata
species -- is native to China and Tibet. The fruit, about the size of
a Mandarin orange, is commonly grown in Japan, where it's a popular
culinary ingredient.

When harvested early in the season, yuzu is lime-colored, but by
season's end, in late December, the fruits have turned a lemony
yellow. But the demand for yuzu far surpasses the seasonal supply. So
if fresh fruit is not available, yuzu lovers depend on products such
as bottled juice, freeze-dried peel and prepared yuzu condiments (see
box on Page F4).

Japanese cooks commonly blend fresh or bottled yuzu juice with rice
vinegar, soy sauce and other ingredients for a ponzu dipping sauce
for sashimi or grilled fish. The aromatic, thick, bumpy rind is
grated and then added to soups and cooked vegetables.

"When you open the lid of a serving dish and the distinctive aroma of
yuzu comes out, it's so delicate. There's no substitution," says Kaz
Okochi, chef and owner of Kaz Sushi Bistro near George Washington
University.

When whole yuzu fruits are available, Okochi hollows them and fills
them with a cold lobster salad. Succulent, Nantucket Bay scallops are
marinated in the juice for a ceviche. A single scoop of refreshing
yuzu ice cream, accompanied by a cup of yuzu tea -- "My winter drink
for Vitamin C" -- is the perfect way to end an evening at Kaz Sushi
Bistro.

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, a native of Japan with restaurants in Los
Angeles, New York, Miami, Paris, London and Milan, offers more than a
dozen recipes that call for this cultivar in "Nobu: The Cookbook"
(Kodansha International, 2001). His signature yuzu dressing -- made
with yuzu juice, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper and grapeseed oil --
is sublime atop a salad of assorted sauteed mushrooms.

But yuzu's sour flavor and exotic appeal have traveled beyond the
Japanese kitchen. In Dublin, yuzu dresses a composed salad of potato
and prawn. In Milan, Italian chefs whisk yuzu juice with their
favorite regional olive oil as a dressing for bitter greens.

"It's more pungent than lemon and goes really well with fish. So, we
use it in our tuna tartar with a yuzu mango sauce," says Thomas
Keller, chef and owner of the French Laundry restaurant in Napa
Valley. Yuzu makes seasonal appearances on Keller's dessert menu
starring as yuzu sorbet or yuzu gelatin.

In Chicago, at the Indian-Asian restaurant Monsoon, a tandoori
marinated quail salad is dressed with a splash of yuzu. Chef Norman
Van Aken, owner of Norman's restaurant in the Coral Gables section of
Miami, calls this fruit "the sharpest note in the keyboard of
flavor." Aken marinates chicken in yuzu juice, sesame oil and tamari.

"Yuzu is so clean, bracing, the floridity. There is nothing quite
like it," he says.

In New York, bartenders at boutique hotels shake or stir the yuzu
martini, made with yuzu-infused sake. At the contemporary American
restaurant Verbena near Gramercy Park, the nonalcoholic beverage of
choice is sparkling yuzu-ade.

"People like it because it's perplexing to our flavor references,"
says chef and co-owner Michael Otsuka. "The yuzu taste has the
sweetness of Meyer lemon as well as the sharp acidity of lime, a
quality that is pretty on the palate."

Alison Chase, chef and co-owner of Aqua Terra in Annapolis, added
yuzu to her menu one year ago. She uses the citrus in a ponzu sauce
for pot stickers, as a dressing for a salad of daikon, cucumber and
carrot and as an accent atop a grilled veal chop.

"I like to stay current with the trends. And I know [yuzu] has become
really popular in San Francisco," says Chase, who shares restaurant
responsibilities with her husband, Ken.

If yuzu has one drawback it is price. A single fruit, when available
at Japanese markets in the Washington area, costs about $2.50.
Wholesale distributors charge restaurants around $32 for a one-quart
bottle of yuzu juice.

The considerable expense does not thwart chef Martin Saylor of
Butterfield 9, a contemporary American restaurant in downtown
Washington.

Says Saylor: "There is nothing better than yuzu, with its intense
perfumelike flavor. It's really cool."

On any given day, Saylor offers dishes such as a terrific appetizer
of yellowtail sashimi with yuzu sorbet, a rich entree of bison osso
buco in a sauce of fermented soy bean and yuzu juice and a beautiful
yuzu tart with blackberry sauce and ginger syrup.

But not every dish is an immediate success.

On a recent afternoon, Saylor and his sous-chef, Brandon Child, set
their sights on a new yuzu-inspired entree. The proposed components:
broiled lobster, a yuzu-flavored zabaglione and "pearl" couscous. At
hand are half a dozen assorted yuzu preparations that include yuzu
juice as well as pure and flavored yuzu peel purees and powders. The
whisking and blending begins.

Some minutes later, the chefs raise forks. Then, Saylor takes a bite.
"That's potent stuff. We should have gone with a little less yuzu,"
he says.

Child takes a bite. "If ever there was a work in progress, this is
it. Let's ditch the zabaglione and go with a reduced yuzu juice with
butter -- a yuzu beurre blanc," he says.

Work on this dish will continue -- but only in the Butterfield
kitchen. "We never experiment on guests," says Saylor.

But yuzu is not limited to the kitchen.

On the evening of the winter solstice, in keeping with a tradition
that is believed to encourage health, many Japanese enjoy a hot yuzu
bath. Fruits bob on the surface. Yuzu is an of-the-moment ingredient
in candles, as well as bath, fragrance and beauty products.

In a widely reported item, actress Sandra Bullock and "Chicago" star
and Oscar nominee Renee Zellweger had their famous faces cleansed
with an extract of yuzu in preparation for the Golden Globe awards.
No doubt, with every squeeze, yuzu's star rises.


=A9 2003 The Washington Post Company
--============_-1165629201==_ma============
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<html><head><style type=3D"text/css"><!--
blockquote, dl, ul, ol, li { margin-top: 0 ; margin-bottom: 0 }
--></style><title>Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees
wanted.</title></head><body>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite>When posting URL's of things like this,
where you have to join or otherwise sign up some way, please either
let the list know, or copy the article to a letter and post it to the
list. &nbsp;I don't want to sign up for the Washington Post just to
read the article, but it won't let me in any other way.<br>
<blockquote><br>
<b>From:</b> paul simon &lt;paul.simon@tcs.wap.org&gt;<br>
<b>Reply-To:</b> North American Fruit Explorers
&lt;nafex@lists.ibiblio.org&gt;<br>
<b>Date:</b> Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:44:20 -0500<br>
<b>To:</b> North American Fruit Explorers
&lt;nafex@lists.ibiblio.org&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees wanted.<br>
<br>
<tt>If you are looking for a citrus source, you stil have time to<br>
consider the &nbsp;YUZU variety. This was written up in the
Washington<br>
Post food section on Feb. 27. It seems to have quite a intrest
among<br>
chefs. I hope the enclosed link links to the
article.</tt></blockquote>
<blockquote><tt><font
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/arti<span
></span>cles/A64490-2003Feb25.html</u></font>.</tt><br>
<tt></tt></blockquote>
<blockquote><tt><br></tt></blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite><tt>Paul S.</tt></blockquote>
<div><br></div>
<div>Lon,</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>I'm sorry, I thought the article was available to the
public.&nbsp; They must know I'm a long time subscriber. I think one
must join to copy articles after a week or month goes by.&nbsp; </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>ANYWAY, here is a copy for all.&nbsp; Paul S.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"+4"
color=3D"#000000"><b>YUZU</b></font><font face=3D"Times New Roman"
size=3D"+3" color=3D"#000000"><br>
</font><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"+3" color=3D"#000000">Mixed Into a
Martini, Drizzled Over Seafood, Turned Into Ice Cream, It's a
=46ragrant Citrus That Chefs Love to Squeeze</font><font size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><br>
<br>
</font><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"#CC0000"><b>_____<font
size=3D"+1">Finding Yuzu</font>_____</b></font><font face=3D"Times New
Roman" size=3D"+3" color=3D"#000000"><br>
<br>
</font><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"+2" color=3D"#999999">*</font><font
face=3D"Verdana" size=3D"+1" color=3D"#333399"><b> Try Yuzu at
Home</b></font><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </x-tab><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab></font><font face=3D"Verdana" size=3D"+1"
color=3D"#333399"><b>E-Mail This Article</b></font><font size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </x-tab><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab></font><font face=3D"Verdana" size=3D"+1"
color=3D"#333399"><b>Printer-Friendly Version</b></font><font size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab></font><font face=3D"Verdana" size=3D"+1"
color=3D"#333399"><b>Permission to Republish</b></font><font size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><x-tab> </x-tab><br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</x-tab></font><font face=3D"Verdana" size=3D"+1"
color=3D"#333399"><b>Subscribe to The Post</b></font><font size=3D"+3"
color=3D"#000000"><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp; </x-tab><br>
</font><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"+2" color=3D"#000000"><i>By
Walter Nicholls</i><br>
Washington Post Staff Writer<br>
Wednesday, February 26, 2003; Page F01<br>
<br>
</font><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"+3" color=3D"#000000"><br>
Inside a greenhouse on Maryland's Eastern Shore, specialty farmer Ken
Suzuki grows a small, relatively rare citrus fruit that has
infatuated chefs around the world.<br>
<br>
&quot;Yuzu has a special smell that high-toned chefs like so
much,&quot; says Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Farm, where more than 35
varieties of Japanese vegetables and fruits are cultivated. His six,
10-foot-high, seven-year-old yuzu trees yield 200 pounds of the
coveted citrus per year.<br>
<br>
&quot;Chefs want the peel for miso soup and the juice for salad
dressings and their tofu,&quot; he says. And the long list of
distinctive uses for the little yuzu (pronounced YOU-zoo) goes on.<br>
<br>
Stronger in flavor than lemon, with a hint of tangerine, grapefruit
and pine, yuzu -- a hybrid of the<i> C. ichangensis</i> and<i> C.
reticulata</i> species -- is native to China and Tibet. The fruit,
about the size of a Mandarin orange, is commonly grown in Japan,
where it's a popular culinary ingredient.<br>
<br>
When harvested early in the season, yuzu is lime-colored, but by
season's end, in late December, the fruits have turned a lemony
yellow. But the demand for yuzu far surpasses the seasonal supply. So
if fresh fruit is not available, yuzu lovers depend on products such
as bottled juice, freeze-dried peel and prepared yuzu condiments (see
box on Page F4).<br>
<br>
Japanese cooks commonly blend fresh or bottled yuzu juice with rice
vinegar, soy sauce and other ingredients for a<i> ponzu</i> dipping
sauce for sashimi or grilled fish. The aromatic, thick, bumpy rind is
grated and then added to soups and cooked vegetables.<br>
<br>
&quot;When you open the lid of a serving dish and the distinctive
aroma of yuzu comes out, it's so delicate. There's no
substitution,&quot; says Kaz Okochi, chef and owner of Kaz Sushi
Bistro near George Washington University.<br>
<br>
When whole yuzu fruits are available, Okochi hollows them and fills
them with a cold lobster salad. Succulent, Nantucket Bay scallops are
marinated in the juice for a ceviche. A single scoop of refreshing
yuzu ice cream, accompanied by a cup of yuzu tea -- &quot;My winter
drink for Vitamin C&quot; -- is the perfect way to end an evening at
Kaz Sushi Bistro.<br>
<br>
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, a native of Japan with restaurants in Los
Angeles, New York, Miami, Paris, London and Milan, offers more than a
dozen recipes that call for this cultivar in &quot;Nobu: The
Cookbook&quot; (Kodansha International, 2001). His signature yuzu
dressing -- made with yuzu juice, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper and
grapeseed oil -- is sublime atop a salad of assorted sauteed
mushrooms.</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"+3" color=3D"#000000"><br>
But yuzu's sour flavor and exotic appeal have traveled beyond the
Japanese kitchen. In Dublin, yuzu dresses a composed salad of potato
and prawn. In Milan, Italian chefs whisk yuzu juice with their
favorite regional olive oil as a dressing for bitter greens.<br>
<br>
&quot;It's more pungent than lemon and goes really well with fish.
So, we use it in our tuna tartar with a yuzu mango sauce,&quot; says
Thomas Keller, chef and owner of the French Laundry restaurant in
Napa Valley. Yuzu makes seasonal appearances on Keller's dessert menu
starring as yuzu sorbet or yuzu gelatin.<br>
<br>
In Chicago, at the Indian-Asian restaurant Monsoon, a tandoori
marinated quail salad is dressed with a splash of yuzu. Chef Norman
Van Aken, owner of Norman's restaurant in the Coral Gables section of
Miami, calls this fruit &quot;the sharpest note in the keyboard of
flavor.&quot; Aken marinates chicken in yuzu juice, sesame oil and
tamari.<br>
<br>
&quot;Yuzu is so clean, bracing, the floridity. There is nothing
quite like it,&quot; he says.<br>
<br>
In New York, bartenders at boutique hotels shake or stir the yuzu
martini, made with yuzu-infused sake. At the contemporary American
restaurant Verbena near Gramercy Park, the nonalcoholic beverage of
choice is sparkling yuzu-ade.<br>
<br>
&quot;People like it because it's perplexing to our flavor
references,&quot; says chef and co-owner Michael Otsuka. &quot;The
yuzu taste has the sweetness of Meyer lemon as well as the sharp
acidity of lime, a quality that is pretty on the palate.&quot;<br>
<br>
Alison Chase, chef and co-owner of Aqua Terra in Annapolis, added
yuzu to her menu one year ago. She uses the citrus in a ponzu sauce
for pot stickers, as a dressing for a salad of daikon, cucumber and
carrot and as an accent atop a grilled veal chop.<br>
<br>
&quot;I like to stay current with the trends. And I know [yuzu] has
become really popular in San Francisco,&quot; says Chase, who shares
restaurant responsibilities with her husband, Ken.<br>
<br>
If yuzu has one drawback it is price. A single fruit, when available
at Japanese markets in the Washington area, costs about $2.50.
Wholesale distributors charge restaurants around $32 for a one-quart
bottle of yuzu juice.<br>
<br>
The considerable expense does not thwart chef Martin Saylor of
Butterfield 9, a contemporary American restaurant in downtown
Washington.<br>
<br>
Says Saylor: &quot;There is nothing better than yuzu, with its
intense perfumelike flavor. It's really cool.&quot;<br>
<br>
On any given day, Saylor offers dishes such as a terrific appetizer
of yellowtail sashimi with yuzu sorbet, a rich entree of bison osso
buco in a sauce of fermented soy bean and yuzu juice and a beautiful
yuzu tart with blackberry sauce and ginger syrup.<br>
<br>
But not every dish is an immediate success.<br>
<br>
On a recent afternoon, Saylor and his sous-chef, Brandon Child, set
their sights on a new yuzu-inspired entree. The proposed components:
broiled lobster, a yuzu-flavored zabaglione and &quot;pearl&quot;
couscous. At hand are half a dozen assorted yuzu preparations that
include yuzu juice as well as pure and flavored yuzu peel purees and
powders. The whisking and blending begins.<br>
<br>
Some minutes later, the chefs raise forks. Then, Saylor takes a bite.
&quot;That's potent stuff. We should have gone with a little less
yuzu,&quot; he says.<br>
<br>
Child takes a bite. &quot;If ever there was a work in progress, this
is it. Let's ditch the zabaglione and go with a reduced yuzu juice
with butter -- a yuzu beurre blanc,&quot; he says.<br>
<br>
Work on this dish will continue -- but only in the Butterfield
kitchen. &quot;We never experiment on guests,&quot; says Saylor.<br>
<br>
But yuzu is not limited to the kitchen.<br>
<br>
On the evening of the winter solstice, in keeping with a tradition
that is believed to encourage health, many Japanese enjoy a hot yuzu
bath. Fruits bob on the surface. Yuzu is an of-the-moment ingredient
in candles, as well as bath, fragrance and beauty products.<br>
<br>
In a widely reported item, actress Sandra Bullock and
&quot;Chicago&quot; star and Oscar nominee Renee Zellweger had their
famous faces cleansed with an extract of yuzu in preparation for the
Golden Globe awards. No doubt, with every squeeze, yuzu's star
rises.<br>
<br>
<br>
=A9 2003 The Washington Post Company</font></div>
</body>
</html>
--============_-1165629201==_ma============--
>From list@ginda.us Sat Mar 1 07:58:28 2003
Return-Path: <list@ginda.us>
Delivered-To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Received: from flamingo.mail.pas.earthlink.net
(flamingo.mail.pas.earthlink.net [207.217.120.232])
by happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id C3704200B4
for <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>; Sat, 1 Mar 2003 07:58:27 -0500 (EST)
Received: from bstnma1-ar1-4-64-207-226.bstnma1.elnk.dsl.genuity.net
([4.64.207.226] helo=ginda.us)
by flamingo.mail.pas.earthlink.net with esmtp (Exim 3.33 #1)
id 18p6ai-0003JC-00
for nafex@lists.ibiblio.org; Sat, 01 Mar 2003 04:59:49 -0800
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 08:05:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees wanted.
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=Apple-Mail-12--502769718
Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v551)
From: list@ginda.us
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
In-Reply-To: <a04310103ba85e710e6e2@[63.102.104.22]>
Message-Id: <6CC0095A-4BE6-11D7-848B-00039312C3A0@ginda.us>
X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.551)
X-BeenThere: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.1
Precedence: list
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Id: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex.lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Unsubscribe: <http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex>,
<mailto:nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=unsubscribe>
List-Archive: <https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex>
List-Post: <mailto:nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
List-Help: <mailto:sympa@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=HELP>
List-Subscribe: <http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex>,
<mailto:nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org?subject=subscribe>
X-List-Received-Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 12:58:28 -0000


--Apple-Mail-12--502769718
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=ISO-8859-1;
format=flowed

I don't suppose anyone knows the cultural requirements of this plant?

Ginda

On Friday, February 28, 2003, at 11:34 PM, paul simon wrote:

> When posting URL's of things like this, where you have to join or=20
> otherwise sign up some way, please either let the list know, or copy=20=

> the article to a letter and post it to the list. =A0I don't want to =
sign=20
> up for the Washington Post just to read the article, but it won't let=20=

> me in any other way.
>
>
> From: paul simon <paul.simon@tcs.wap.org>
> Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:44:20 -0500
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees wanted.
>
> If you are looking for a citrus source, you stil have time to
> consider the =A0YUZU variety. This was written up in the Washington
> Post food section on Feb. 27. It seems to have quite a intrest among
> chefs. I hope the enclosed link links to the article.
>
> http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A64490-2003Feb25.html.
>
>
>
> Paul S.
>
>
> Lon,
>
> I'm sorry, I thought the article was available to the public.=A0 They=20=

> must know I'm a long time subscriber. I think one must join to copy=20
> articles after a week or month goes by.=A0
>
> ANYWAY, here is a copy for all.=A0 Paul S.
>
> YUZU
> Mixed Into a Martini, Drizzled Over Seafood, Turned Into Ice Cream,=20
> It's a Fragrant Citrus That Chefs Love to Squeeze
>
> _____Finding Yuzu_____
>
> * Try Yuzu at Home
> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0
> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0E-Mail This Article=A0=A0=A0=A0=

> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Printer-Friendly =
Version=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0
> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Permission to Republish
> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Subscribe to The Post=A0=A0
> By Walter Nicholls
> Washington Post Staff Writer
> Wednesday, February 26, 2003; Page F01
>
>
> Inside a greenhouse on Maryland's Eastern Shore, specialty farmer Ken=20=

> Suzuki grows a small, relatively rare citrus fruit that has infatuated=20=

> chefs around the world.
>
> "Yuzu has a special smell that high-toned chefs like so much," says=20
> Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Farm, where more than 35 varieties of Japanese=20=

> vegetables and fruits are cultivated. His six, 10-foot-high,=20
> seven-year-old yuzu trees yield 200 pounds of the coveted citrus per=20=

> year.
>
> "Chefs want the peel for miso soup and the juice for salad dressings=20=

> and their tofu," he says. And the long list of distinctive uses for=20
> the little yuzu (pronounced YOU-zoo) goes on.
>
> Stronger in flavor than lemon, with a hint of tangerine, grapefruit=20
> and pine, yuzu -- a hybrid of the C. ichangensis and C. reticulata=20
> species -- is native to China and Tibet. The fruit, about the size of=20=

> a Mandarin orange, is commonly grown in Japan, where it's a popular=20
> culinary ingredient.
>
> When harvested early in the season, yuzu is lime-colored, but by=20
> season's end, in late December, the fruits have turned a lemony=20
> yellow. But the demand for yuzu far surpasses the seasonal supply. So=20=

> if fresh fruit is not available, yuzu lovers depend on products such=20=

> as bottled juice, freeze-dried peel and prepared yuzu condiments (see=20=

> box on Page F4).
>
> Japanese cooks commonly blend fresh or bottled yuzu juice with rice=20
> vinegar, soy sauce and other ingredients for a ponzu dipping sauce for=20=

> sashimi or grilled fish. The aromatic, thick, bumpy rind is grated and=20=

> then added to soups and cooked vegetables.
>
> "When you open the lid of a serving dish and the distinctive aroma of=20=

> yuzu comes out, it's so delicate. There's no substitution," says Kaz=20=

> Okochi, chef and owner of Kaz Sushi Bistro near George Washington=20
> University.
>
> When whole yuzu fruits are available, Okochi hollows them and fills=20
> them with a cold lobster salad. Succulent, Nantucket Bay scallops are=20=

> marinated in the juice for a ceviche. A single scoop of refreshing=20
> yuzu ice cream, accompanied by a cup of yuzu tea -- "My winter drink=20=

> for Vitamin C" -- is the perfect way to end an evening at Kaz Sushi=20
> Bistro.
>
> Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, a native of Japan with restaurants in Los=20
> Angeles, New York, Miami, Paris, London and Milan, offers more than a=20=

> dozen recipes that call for this cultivar in "Nobu: The Cookbook"=20
> (Kodansha International, 2001). His signature yuzu dressing -- made=20
> with yuzu juice, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper and grapeseed oil --=20=

> is sublime atop a salad of assorted sauteed mushrooms.
>
> But yuzu's sour flavor and exotic appeal have traveled beyond the=20
> Japanese kitchen. In Dublin, yuzu dresses a composed salad of potato=20=

> and prawn. In Milan, Italian chefs whisk yuzu juice with their=20
> favorite regional olive oil as a dressing for bitter greens.
>
> "It's more pungent than lemon and goes really well with fish. So, we=20=

> use it in our tuna tartar with a yuzu mango sauce," says Thomas=20
> Keller, chef and owner of the French Laundry restaurant in Napa=20
> Valley. Yuzu makes seasonal appearances on Keller's dessert menu=20
> starring as yuzu sorbet or yuzu gelatin.
>
> In Chicago, at the Indian-Asian restaurant Monsoon, a tandoori=20
> marinated quail salad is dressed with a splash of yuzu. Chef Norman=20
> Van Aken, owner of Norman's restaurant in the Coral Gables section of=20=

> Miami, calls this fruit "the sharpest note in the keyboard of flavor."=20=

> Aken marinates chicken in yuzu juice, sesame oil and tamari.
>
> "Yuzu is so clean, bracing, the floridity. There is nothing quite like=20=

> it," he says.
>
> In New York, bartenders at boutique hotels shake or stir the yuzu=20
> martini, made with yuzu-infused sake. At the contemporary American=20
> restaurant Verbena near Gramercy Park, the nonalcoholic beverage of=20
> choice is sparkling yuzu-ade.
>
> "People like it because it's perplexing to our flavor references,"=20
> says chef and co-owner Michael Otsuka. "The yuzu taste has the=20
> sweetness of Meyer lemon as well as the sharp acidity of lime, a=20
> quality that is pretty on the palate."
>
> Alison Chase, chef and co-owner of Aqua Terra in Annapolis, added yuzu=20=

> to her menu one year ago. She uses the citrus in a ponzu sauce for pot=20=

> stickers, as a dressing for a salad of daikon, cucumber and carrot and=20=

> as an accent atop a grilled veal chop.
>
> "I like to stay current with the trends. And I know [yuzu] has become=20=

> really popular in San Francisco," says Chase, who shares restaurant=20
> responsibilities with her husband, Ken.
>
> If yuzu has one drawback it is price. A single fruit, when available=20=

> at Japanese markets in the Washington area, costs about $2.50.=20
> Wholesale distributors charge restaurants around $32 for a one-quart=20=

> bottle of yuzu juice.
>
> The considerable expense does not thwart chef Martin Saylor of=20
> Butterfield 9, a contemporary American restaurant in downtown=20
> Washington.
>
> Says Saylor: "There is nothing better than yuzu, with its intense=20
> perfumelike flavor. It's really cool."
>
> On any given day, Saylor offers dishes such as a terrific appetizer of=20=

> yellowtail sashimi with yuzu sorbet, a rich entree of bison osso buco=20=

> in a sauce of fermented soy bean and yuzu juice and a beautiful yuzu=20=

> tart with blackberry sauce and ginger syrup.
>
> But not every dish is an immediate success.
>
> On a recent afternoon, Saylor and his sous-chef, Brandon Child, set=20
> their sights on a new yuzu-inspired entree. The proposed components:=20=

> broiled lobster, a yuzu-flavored zabaglione and "pearl" couscous. At=20=

> hand are half a dozen assorted yuzu preparations that include yuzu=20
> juice as well as pure and flavored yuzu peel purees and powders. The=20=

> whisking and blending begins.
>
> Some minutes later, the chefs raise forks. Then, Saylor takes a bite.=20=

> "That's potent stuff. We should have gone with a little less yuzu," he=20=

> says.
>
> Child takes a bite. "If ever there was a work in progress, this is it.=20=

> Let's ditch the zabaglione and go with a reduced yuzu juice with=20
> butter -- a yuzu beurre blanc," he says.
>
> Work on this dish will continue -- but only in the Butterfield=20
> kitchen. "We never experiment on guests," says Saylor.
>
> But yuzu is not limited to the kitchen.
>
> On the evening of the winter solstice, in keeping with a tradition=20
> that is believed to encourage health, many Japanese enjoy a hot yuzu=20=

> bath. Fruits bob on the surface. Yuzu is an of-the-moment ingredient=20=

> in candles, as well as bath, fragrance and beauty products.
>
> In a widely reported item, actress Sandra Bullock and "Chicago" star=20=

> and Oscar nominee Renee Zellweger had their famous faces cleansed with=20=

> an extract of yuzu in preparation for the Golden Globe awards. No=20
> doubt, with every squeeze, yuzu's star rises.
>
>
> =A9 2003 The Washington Post Company
> _______________________________________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Most questions can be answered here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> File attachments are accepted by this list; please do not send binary=20=

> files, plain text ONLY!
> Message archives are here:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
> To view your user options go to:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX (where=20
> XXXX@XXXX is
> YOUR email address)
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/

--Apple-Mail-12--502769718
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/enriched;
charset=ISO-8859-1

I don't suppose anyone knows the cultural requirements of this plant?


Ginda


On Friday, February 28, 2003, at 11:34 PM, paul simon wrote:


<excerpt>When posting URL's of things like this, where you have to
join or otherwise sign up some way, please either let the list know,
or copy the article to a letter and post it to the list. =A0I don't want
to sign up for the Washington Post just to read the article, but it
won't let me in any other way.



<bold>From:</bold> paul simon <<paul.simon@tcs.wap.org>

<bold>Reply-To:</bold> North American Fruit Explorers
<<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>

<bold>Date:</bold> Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:44:20 -0500

<bold>To:</bold> North American Fruit Explorers
<<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>

<bold>Subject:</bold> Re: [NAFEX] Sources for dwarf citrus trees
wanted.


<fixed><bigger>If you are looking for a citrus source, you stil have
time to

consider the =A0YUZU variety. This was written up in the Washington

Post food section on Feb. 27. It seems to have quite a intrest among

chefs. I hope the enclosed link links to the article.</bigger></fixed>


=
<fixed><underline><color><param>0000,0000,FFFF</param><bigger>http://www.w=
ashingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A64490-2003Feb25.html</bigger></color></=
underline><bigger>.

</bigger></fixed>



<fixed><bigger>Paul S.</bigger></fixed>



Lon,


I'm sorry, I thought the article was available to the public.=A0 They
must know I'm a long time subscriber. I think one must join to copy
articles after a week or month goes by.=A0


ANYWAY, here is a copy for all.=A0 Paul S.


=
<bold><fontfamily><param>Arial</param><color><param>0000,0000,0000</param>=
<bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><b=
igger><bigger><bigger>YUZU

=
</bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></=
bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><fontfamily>=
<param>Arial</param><color><param>0000,0000,0000</param><bigger><bigger><b=
igger><bigger><bigger><bigger>Mixed
Into a Martini, Drizzled Over Seafood, Turned Into Ice Cream, It's a
Fragrant Citrus That Chefs Love to Squeeze


=
</bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></color></fontfamily=
><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdana</param><color><param>CCCC,0000,0000</par=
am>_____<bigger>Finding
Yuzu</bigger>_____


=
</color></fontfamily></bold><fontfamily><param>Arial</param><color><param>=
9999,9999,9999</param><bigger><bigger><bigger>*</bigger></bigger></bigger>=
</color></fontfamily><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdana</param><color><param=
>3333,3333,9999</param><bigger>
Try Yuzu at Home

</bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><fontfamily><param>Times New =
Roman</param><color><param>0000,0000,0000</param><bigger><bigger><bigger><=
bigger><bigger><bigger>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0

=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0</bigger></bigger></bigger></big=
ger></bigger></bigger></color></fontfamily><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdan=
a</param><color><param>3333,3333,9999</param><bigger>E-Mail
This
=
Article</bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><color><param>0000,0000,0000</=
param><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger>=A0=A0=A0=A0

=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0</bigger></bigger></bigger></big=
ger></bigger></bigger></color><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdana</param><col=
or><param>3333,3333,9999</param><bigger>Printer-Friendly
=
Version</bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><color><param>0000,0000,0000</=
param><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=


=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0</bigger></bigger></bigger></big=
ger></bigger></bigger></color><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdana</param><col=
or><param>3333,3333,9999</param><bigger>Permission
to Republish

=
</bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><color><param>0000,0000,0000</param><=
bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0</bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></col=
or><bold><fontfamily><param>Verdana</param><color><param>3333,3333,9999</p=
aram><bigger>Subscribe
to The
=
Post</bigger></color></fontfamily></bold><color><param>0000,0000,0000</par=
am><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger><bigger>=A0=A0

</bigger></bigger></bigger><italic><fontfamily><param>Times New =
Roman</param>By
Walter Nicholls

</fontfamily></italic><fontfamily><param>Times New =
Roman</param>Washington
Post Staff Writer

Wednesday, February 26, 2003; Page F01



<bigger><bigger><bigger>Inside a greenhouse on Maryland's Eastern
Shore, specialty farmer Ken Suzuki grows a small, relatively rare
citrus fruit that has infatuated chefs around the world.


"Yuzu has a special smell that high-toned chefs like so much," says
Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Farm, where more than 35 varieties of Japanese
vegetables and fruits are cultivated. His six, 10-foot-high,
seven-year-old yuzu trees yield 200 pounds of the coveted citrus per
year.


"Chefs want the peel for miso soup and the juice for salad dressings
and their tofu," he says. And the long list of distinctive uses for
the little yuzu (pronounced YOU-zoo) goes on.


Stronger in flavor than lemon, with a hint of tangerine, grapefruit
and pine, yuzu -- a hybrid of the<italic> C. ichangensis</italic>
and<italic> C. reticulata</italic> species -- is native to China and
Tibet. The fruit, about the size of a Mandarin orange, is commonly
grown in Japan, where it's a popular culinary ingredient.


When harvested early in the season, yuzu is lime-colored, but by
season's end, in late December, the fruits have turned a lemony
yellow. But the demand for yuzu far surpasses the seasonal supply. So
if fresh fruit is not available, yuzu lovers depend on products such
as bottled juice, freeze-dried peel and prepared yuzu condiments (see
box on Page F4).


Japanese cooks commonly blend fresh or bottled yuzu juice with rice
vinegar, soy sauce and other ingredients for a<italic> ponzu</italic>
dipping sauce for sashimi or grilled fish. The aromatic, thick, bumpy
rind is grated and then added to soups and cooked vegetables.


"When you open the lid of a serving dish and the distinctive aroma of
yuzu comes out, it's so delicate. There's no substitution," says Kaz
Okochi, chef and owner of Kaz Sushi Bistro near George Washington
University.


When whole yuzu fruits are available, Okochi hollows them and fills
them with a cold lobster salad. Succulent, Nantucket Bay scallops are
marinated in the juice for a ceviche. A single scoop of refreshing
yuzu ice cream, accompanied by a cup of yuzu tea -- "My winter drink
for Vitamin C" -- is the perfect way to end an evening at Kaz Sushi
Bistro.


Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, a native of Japan with restaurants in Los
Angeles, New York, Miami, Paris, London and Milan, offers more than a
dozen recipes that call for this cultivar in "Nobu: The Cookbook"
(Kodansha International, 2001). His signature yuzu dressing -- made
with yuzu juice, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper and grapeseed oil --
is sublime atop a salad of assorted sauteed =
mushrooms.</bigger></bigger></bigger></fontfamily></bigger></bigger></bigg=
er></color>


<fontfamily><param>Times New =
Roman</param><color><param>0000,0000,0000</param><bigger><bigger><bigger><=
bigger><bigger><bigger>But
yuzu's sour flavor and exotic appeal have traveled beyond the Japanese
kitchen. In Dublin, yuzu dresses a composed salad of potato and prawn.
In Milan, Italian chefs whisk yuzu juice with their favorite regional
olive oil as a dressing for bitter greens.


"It's more pungent than lemon and goes really well with fish. So, we
use it in our tuna tartar with a yuzu mango sauce," says Thomas
Keller, chef and owner of the French Laundry restaurant in Napa
Valley. Yuzu makes seasonal appearances on Keller's dessert menu
starring as yuzu sorbet or yuzu gelatin.


In Chicago, at the Indian-Asian restaurant Monsoon, a tandoori
marinated quail salad is dressed with a splash of yuzu. Chef Norman
Van Aken, owner of Norman's restaurant in the Coral Gables section of
Miami, calls this fruit "the sharpest note in the keyboard of flavor."
Aken marinates chicken in yuzu juice, sesame oil and tamari.


"Yuzu is so clean, bracing, the floridity. There is nothing quite like
it," he says.


In New York, bartenders at boutique hotels shake or stir the yuzu
martini, made with yuzu-infused sake. At the contemporary American
restaurant Verbena near Gramercy Park, the nonalcoholic beverage of
choice is sparkling yuzu-ade.


"People like it because it's perplexing to our flavor references,"
says chef and co-owner Michael Otsuka. "The yuzu taste has the
sweetness of Meyer lemon as well as the sharp acidity of lime, a
quality that is pretty on the palate."


Alison Chase, chef and co-owner of Aqua Terra in Annapolis, added yuzu
to her menu one year ago. She uses the citrus in a ponzu sauce for pot
stickers, as a dressing for a salad of daikon, cucumber and carrot and
as an accent atop a grilled veal chop.


"I like to stay current with the trends. And I know [yuzu] has become
really popular in San Francisco," says Chase, who shares restaurant
responsibilities with her husband, Ken.


If yuzu has one drawback it is price. A single fruit, when available
at Japanese markets in the Washington area, costs about $2.50.
Wholesale distributors charge restaurants around $32 for a one-quart
bottle of yuzu juice.


The considerable expense does not thwart chef Martin Saylor of
Butterfield 9, a contemporary American restaurant in downtown
Washington.


Says Saylor: "There is nothing better than yuzu, with its intense
perfumelike flavor. It's really cool."


On any given day, Saylor offers dishes such as a terrific appetizer of
yellowtail sashimi with yuzu sorbet, a rich entree of bison osso buco
in a sauce of fermented soy bean and yuzu juice and a beautiful yuzu
tart with blackberry sauce and ginger syrup.


But not every dish is an immediate success.


On a recent afternoon, Saylor and his sous-chef, Brandon Child, set
their sights on a new yuzu-inspired entree. The proposed components:
broiled lobster, a yuzu-flavored zabaglione and "pearl" couscous. At
hand are half a dozen assorted yuzu preparations that include yuzu
juice as well as pure and flavored yuzu peel purees and powders. The
whisking and blending begins.


Some minutes later, the chefs raise forks. Then, Saylor takes a bite.
"That's potent stuff. We should have gone with a little less yuzu," he
says.


Child takes a bite. "If ever there was a work in progress, this is it.
Let's ditch the zabaglione and go with a reduced yuzu juice with
butter -- a yuzu beurre blanc," he says.


Work on this dish will continue -- but only in the Butterfield
kitchen. "We never experiment on guests," says Saylor.


But yuzu is not limited to the kitchen.


On the evening of the winter solstice, in keeping with a tradition
that is believed to encourage health, many Japanese enjoy a hot yuzu
bath. Fruits bob on the surface. Yuzu is an of-the-moment ingredient
in candles, as well as bath, fragrance and beauty products.


In a widely reported item, actress Sandra Bullock and "Chicago" star
and Oscar nominee Renee Zellweger had their famous faces cleansed with
an extract of yuzu in preparation for the Golden Globe awards. No
doubt, with every squeeze, yuzu's star rises.



=A9 2003 The Washington Post =
Company</bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></bigger></color></fon=
tfamily>

_______________________________________________

nafex mailing list

nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

Most questions can be answered here:

http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex

File attachments are accepted by this list; please do not send binary
files, plain text ONLY!

Message archives are here:

https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex

To view your user options go to:=20

http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX (where
XXXX@XXXX is=20

YOUR email address)

NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/

</excerpt>=

--Apple-Mail-12--502769718--




Archive powered by MHonArc 2.6.24.

Top of Page