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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Unwrapping grafts

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  • From: Doug Woodard <dwoodard@becon.org>
  • To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Unwrapping grafts
  • Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 17:07:37 -0400 (EDT)

Dear Chris:

I am replying directly as I can't reply to the list for a few days yet - a
problem with my ISP's signature on my e-mail versus my data on file with
the list.

You don't need to cover your T-budding with anything over the bud itself.
The rubbers you use to bind the slit seem to give enough protection.

After having a stock with the bark slipping well at the time of T-budding,
a mature bud, and good technique, stock vigour seems to be a crucial
factor.

If the bud shield stay plump this means you are OK, if it gets greener and
plumper you are away to the races. It may help if you can delay dormancy
somewhat; unless you are in a marginal situation with rootstock hardiness
it should not matter if the top is damaged, you will be cutting it off
anyway.

The best take I ever had was obtained by

1. watering the stock plentifully and weeding it carefully for about 3
weeks before budding, and afterward.

2. mulching generously with fresh cow manure about 3 weeks before, for a
good shot of available nitrogen.

3. pruning about 1/3 of the branches from the stock about 3 weeks before.
I did this to make the area of budding on the stock more accessible but I
later realized that it prolongs growth and delays dormancy.

I don't know to what extent you may get a benefit by doing these things
now, but you may want to try some if you are feeling finicky or if your
stocks were not really vigourous. They are counsels of perfection and
normally would only be really worthwhile if you were budding somewhat
later than the ideal time for your area, as I was in dealing with budwood
from a more southern location that was cut when mature but about 2 weeks
after my stocks were in best condition for budding.

I have no experience with chip budding but I have a rather vague
impression that it is normally done somewhat earlier in the season than
T-budding.

Doug Woodard
St Catharines, Ontario, Canada


> In my quest to finally learn how to do bud grafting,
> yesterday and this morning I did 19 grafts.
> 13 Peach (chip budding)
> 3 Pawpaw (chip budding)
> 3 apple (2 t-bud and 1 chip bud)
>
> All the chip buds were done with grafting rubbers and then the
> graft was wrapped with parafilm and black electrician's tape
> to hold the parafilm. Only 1 of t-bud's was wrapped w/
> parafilm (I have been told that covering a t-bud was not
> necessary, but it is for chip budding).
>
> I would like to remove the parafilm as soon as the graft has
> either taken or failed. How long should I wait? Should I
> also remove the grafting rubber and when? IMO, grafting
> rubbers don't breakdown fast enough, especially if they've
> been protected by a parafilm covering. Any other advice?
>
> I have also been told that if the leaf axil "dehisces" (i.e.
> falls off easily/naturally) the graft has "taken". If it is
> firmly attached, the graft failed. Any thoughts on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Mauchline
> SE PA, zone 6
> _______________________________________________







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