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Subject: Healthy soil and sustainable growing

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  • From: "McBride & Putnam" <dragonhill2@netzero.net>
  • To: "E. E. Mitchamore Jr" <emitch@att.net>, "Healthy soil and sustainable growing" <livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] Cardboard
  • Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 11:20:07 -0600

Sounds as if you live in Oklahoma.  I don't know why they bother trying to keep averages around here.  There is no average.  One year we might get an early freeze around the 1st of October or in late September; the next year it might be late December before we get a freeze.  Some years we get barely a trace of snow, other years we get 10 to 12 inches dumped on us in March or April.  Usually we can count on hot, humid summers with temps. in the upper 90's but sometimes the push up to 110 and every now and again we get a summer that temps. barely hit 90 most of the summer. One thing you can pretty much count on, there's either too much rain or not enough.
 
Claudia
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] Cardboard

After the last two years I don't know if it's POSSIBLE to adapt to our weather.  2006 growing season was the hottest on record and totally without rain.  2007 was the coolest in 50 years, with record rainfall.  That said, I'm growing hot-weather plants in 1 gal. pots in the Hoop House, and planting them when it's finally warm enough.
 
E. E. "Mitch" Mitchamore
www.hillcountrynatives.biz
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] Cardboard


No problem with birds here - apparently the quail don't want anything but
bugs in the garden, and rabbits are fenced out. But we need to work out
some frost protection this spring to get an earlier start at the market.
Don't know if row covers will speed up red onion bulbing even if they get
an earlier start. Day neutrals.

This year we're expanding from four to eighteen carrot beds, with each row
of six beds staggered a month apart. Last summer my floating row cover let
one carrot bed dry out too fast, zero germination tho I misted it often.
I'm going to try a 2x4 frame sitting just inside the bed frames, with 3.5
ml stapled to the frame top so the plastic doesn't lie on the seed bed.
With very little added heat, greenhouse tomatoes are going to be a little
trickier to push from Feb to May - last freeze is sometime in early May and
markets start around June 1st. We haven't used cloches but we can save
enough gallon milk jugs to use as you do. That stick in the hole to keep it
from blowing away is a nifty idea.

Apparently season extension is a very individual thing and the variations
are endless. In our case double cropping depends on our methods working.
How do others adapt to their own weather, and with what crops?

paul tradingpost@lobo.net

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 12/28/2007 at 12:26 PM yarrow@sfo.com wrote:

>My garden has a dozen or so plastic gallon water bottles with the
>bottoms cut off. I put a stick in the center to keep each one from
>blowing away or falling over, and I use them to cover seedlings. From
>about Oct-Nov to Apr-May, the birds are eager to eat every new green
>leaf, including self-seeded kales, so if I want winter vegs, I need
>to cover them. A few years ago, when my first winter broccoli crop
>was getting munched, I used lots and lots of Sluggo (the nontoxic
>iron-based stuff), thinking it was slugs. But then, while I was in
>the garden, I saw birds hopping onto (what was left of) the broccoli
>stems and taking small bites. (I didn't use Sluggo at all this past
>year.) Sometimes I see slugs or snails inside the tiny "greenhouses."
>
>Last year I took the covers off the snap peas when they were 3 feet
>high, thinking they were big enough to fend for themselves, and in a
>couple days they were eaten down to bare stems. So now the pea
>trellis stays under row cover all winter and spring.
>
>This year the birds started eating the fennel/finocchio when it was a
>foot high, so I covered them up again.
>
>The clear plastic bottles are also good for protecting new seedlings.
>I live in a year-round gardening climate (Calif.), but even when the
>temperature does not get down to freezing, a layer of frost covers
>the plants most mornings in the winter. The bottles keep the frost
>from settling on the plants, protect them from the wind, and keep
>them a little warmer during the day. I always leave the tops/caps off
>the bottles so that air can circulate, and this does not allow enough
>frost in to make a difference. When the plants outgrow the cloches, I
>uncover them (seems to be ok so far for kohlrabi and broccoli raab)
>or else add row cover or something similar.
>
>In Iowa, if you have a small garden (as opposed to a farm) and don't
>have a greenhouse or cold frame, look up http://wintersown.org/
>-- it's a method popularized by a Long Island gardener who was eager
>to plant seeds when the ground is frozen. She uses any plastic
>container, punches holes in the bottom for drainage and in the top
>for air, fills it with soil, and plants seeds. If the container does
>not come with a clear top, she uses clear plastic. She even plants
>tomatoes this way!
>
>At 6:38 AM -0500 12/28/07, Fargir@aol.com wrote, in response to this post,
>>I recycle disposable soda bottle
>halves to sprout the seeds, giving the first leaves a
>bit of time protected from mice and slugs.  These fit
>into holes cut thru the cardboard mulch - seedlings
>are even better.<
>
>     I'm a bit slow today. Could you go into detail?  2 lt. bottles?
>Which half? Maybe, would it help with vine bores?
>Thank's. Trying to keep typing to min. Slipped on ice 2 wks. ago and
>have a hair line fracture in the r shoulder. hurts to type with r hand
>Peggy in Iowa
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