permaculture

[venaurafarm <venaurafarm@bellsouth.net>]

On 11/5/2012 9:59 AM, John Wages wrote:
> The upcoming issue of the Permaculture Activist focuses on weeds
> ("Weeds to the Rescue").  How are these exuberant plants best
> integrated into a permaculture system?  How can we deal with the more
> problematic ones (think rhizome-spreading Johnsongrass and
> bermudagrass)?  Articles on specific edibles, systems for making
> weed-ferment compost tea, uses of specific weeds in composting, weedy
> insectary plants, ways to deplete the weed seed bank, systems that
> use pigs, chickens, ducks, and of course, weeder geese, long-term
> weed control for broadscale farm management, novel applications of
> mulch, living mulches, nitrogen-fixing or tap-rooted weeds for
> regeneration of depleted soils, etc., are of interest...as well as
> more imaginative definitions of "weeds" (animals, insects, parasites,
> perhaps stretching the theme to invisible weedy structures).
>
> If you have expertise, experience, or perspective, please consider
> writing for this issue.  The deadline for submissions is Dec. 1.
> Contact the editor directly at wagesjm@gmail.com
>
> John
>
> John Wages Editor, Permaculture Activist

Well, here are some ideas we can develop further right here, with input 
from others. Edit and add them to your article directly.

Many weeds like turnip, mustard gone wild and crossbred are best left in 
place in gardens left fallow for a year to regenerate. They set large 
roots which aerate and tilth the soil. When they rot they leave large 
holds that can fill with humus. If wild mustard and turnip is left to go 
to seed in a garden the next year will see an enormous crop
of these plants. Let them grow all season and scythe the tops before 
they form viable seeds. Leave mulch on the ground to rot and fill holes 
left by the decomposed roots.

Pennsylvania Smartweed should be left to grow in edge zones as it is a 
decoy plant for Japanese beetles.

Wild burdock, greater and lesser are excellent soil builders. Roots on 
the edible greater burdock can extent two feet or more underground 
tilthing and aerating the soil, especially if left to rot, unharvested, 
the huge leaves shade the ground conserving moisture and preventing many 
other weeds from growing underneath.

Use light tillage to bring portions of the weed seed bank to the surface 
for germination and removal for recycling. When cropping in well 
prepared garden soil with large weed colonies, till lightly, plant the 
crop then pull weeds that germinate and emerge. There will be less of 
them than when deep tilling prior to planting and food crop will still 
do well. This is one of the benefits of no or minimum till gardening.

Look at the work of Masanobu Fukuoka and the Natural Farming
methods he developed over the course of a lifetime. Many good ideas can 
be dreived from his system. There are books, photographs and videos that 
demonstrate his methods. See especially the Fukuoka subgroup at 
Permies.com and read commentary by Larry Korn who worked at Fukuoka's 
farm and knows how his system works. This is described in that subforum.

Can others add to this list and keep the thread circulating?

I will add much more myself as it is one of my favorite topics. I have 
have arrived at methods that I have put into practice on my farm. I have 
seen amazing results especially with regard to getting rid of problem 
weeds interfering with food cropping. I will upload photographs you can 
use also.

Dieter, Daniel, John?

LL