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  • From: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
  • To: "nafex@lists.ibiblio.org" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates
  • Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 18:13:16 -0700 (PDT)

For whatever reason, I've never managed to graft a peach successfully. My
understanding is that the callus temp. is pretty high (75 degrees?) and so
dormant grafting by say whip and tongue (with which I am proficient) is a no
go in this part of the world (New England). This year, I  tried to preserve a
cherished seedling peach that is on death's doorstep. I dug a peach whip in
early spring, potted it up, whip grafted it, and set it in the sunny bedroom
window. I thought the 75 degree daytime and 70 degree nightime temps might be
just about right, but it looks like the graft failed. The scion wood may have
been the problem as it was pretty poor to begin with. I'm familiar with the
callus tube concept, but that's a lot of trouble to go through to graft a
couple of trees. I wondered if others have tried grafting inside and if it
worked. I understand that its best (in theory) to heat only the graft area.
Still, it seems that folks in the south can dormant
graft peaches without a problem, so why not do it inside where its warm? 

I should probably work on shield budding a bit more. I've tried several times
and never had a take. I haven't given up, but I've been discouraged from
trying much more. Peaches are the only thing I've tried and found reliably
won't graft. Any secrets to share? 
-Devin Smith
Rockingham, VT
>From dvidedevo@yahoo.com Sat May 17 21:32:27 2014
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Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 18:32:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [nafex] juneberry pests/diseases
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I have a pretty extensive wild patch of stoloniferous serviceberry and
lowbush blueberry occupying a shallow ledgy area of my property. Encouraged
by how prolificly both seemed to grow despite the poor conditions and lack of
care, I've been caring for them in the hopes of getting a good yield off of
both. Unfortunately, I've had a lot of pest issues with both that have been
tough to figure out. I was wondering what other people's experiences were.
The blueberries mostly suffer from stem gall, which burning and some general
TLC has mostly seemed to remedy. The Amelanchiers, however, have a number of
problems. I think the main one is curculios, because many fruit drop, and
those that don't have a characteristic black hole and grub inside. They have
other issues, like leafrollers and aphids that could probably be taken care
of with some dormant oil. Last year, I experimentally sprayed one shortly
after petal fall with pyrethroids, and got a nice crop on
that tree, but the same old grubby hard berries on the other bushes.. I'd
rather not spray systemic stuff on an annual basis, but am hoping to get
pests to a manageable level. Do those of you with Amelanchiers spray, and if
so, what and how often? I've contemplated surround, but it seems an absurd
measure for a fruit that hardly exceeds the size of a pea. I'd do it for a
couple years, though if that would change pest pressure in a residual manner.
Seeing those giant Saskatoons in the previous article just really made me
want to get my house in order on this front. They are delicious. Any idea
what variety that might be? They look comically massive. Maybe Thiessen? Its
supposedly the biggest.
-Devin Smith
Rockingham. VT
>From dvidedevo@yahoo.com Sat May 17 21:36:38 2014
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Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 18:36:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates
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Naomi,

when do you take budwood for peaches? Where do you live? I've read that early
August is about right. Last year, I took budwood off of the aforementioned
peach tree and did shield buds on 4 different rootstocks. All failed. I'm
thinking it might be a timing issue, because shield budding is touted as
being very easy. 



________________________________
From: Naomi Counides <naomi@oznayim.us>
To: 'Devin Smith' <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>; 'nafex mailing list at ibiblio'
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2014 9:31 PM
Subject: RE: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates


Shield budding has been the easiest for me.  I do it with minimal, found
around the house tools and materials and get maybe 70%.  Sharp paring knife,
cheap masking tape.
Naomi


-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Devin
Smith
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2014 7:13 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates

For whatever reason, I've never managed to graft a peach successfully. My
understanding is that the callus temp. is pretty high (75 degrees?) and so
dormant grafting by say whip and tongue (with which I am proficient) is a no
go in this part of the world (New England). This year, I  tried to preserve
a cherished seedling peach that is on death's doorstep. I dug a peach whip
in early spring, potted it up, whip grafted it, and set it in the sunny
bedroom window. I thought the 75 degree daytime and 70 degree nightime temps
might be just about right, but it looks like the graft failed. The scion
wood may have been the problem as it was pretty poor to begin with. I'm
familiar with the callus tube concept, but that's a lot of trouble to go
through to graft a couple of trees. I wondered if others have tried grafting
inside and if it worked. I understand that its best (in theory) to heat only
the graft area. Still, it seems that folks in the south can dormant  graft
peaches without a problem, so why not do it inside where its warm? 

I should probably work on shield budding a bit more. I've tried several
times and never had a take. I haven't given up, but I've been discouraged
from trying much more. Peaches are the only thing I've tried and found
reliably won't graft. Any secrets to share? -Devin Smith Rockingham, VT
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From: "Naomi Counides" <naomi@oznayim.us>
To: "'Devin Smith'" <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>,
"'nafex mailing list at ibiblio'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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Subject: Re: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates
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Shield budding has been the easiest for me. I do it with minimal, found
around the house tools and materials and get maybe 70%. Sharp paring knife,
cheap masking tape.
Naomi

-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Devin
Smith
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2014 7:13 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates

For whatever reason, I've never managed to graft a peach successfully. My
understanding is that the callus temp. is pretty high (75 degrees?) and so
dormant grafting by say whip and tongue (with which I am proficient) is a no
go in this part of the world (New England). This year, I  tried to preserve
a cherished seedling peach that is on death's doorstep. I dug a peach whip
in early spring, potted it up, whip grafted it, and set it in the sunny
bedroom window. I thought the 75 degree daytime and 70 degree nightime temps
might be just about right, but it looks like the graft failed. The scion
wood may have been the problem as it was pretty poor to begin with. I'm
familiar with the callus tube concept, but that's a lot of trouble to go
through to graft a couple of trees. I wondered if others have tried grafting
inside and if it worked. I understand that its best (in theory) to heat only
the graft area. Still, it seems that folks in the south can dormant graft
peaches without a problem, so why not do it inside where its warm? 

I should probably work on shield budding a bit more. I've tried several
times and never had a take. I haven't given up, but I've been discouraged
from trying much more. Peaches are the only thing I've tried and found
reliably won't graft. Any secrets to share? -Devin Smith Rockingham, VT
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  • [nafex] peach grafting for cold climates, Devin Smith, 05/17/2014

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