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  • From: Sarah Kehler Ewing <skkewing@yahoo.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting workshop... storing fresh grafts
  • Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 08:37:31 -0800 (PST)

I grafted over 250 trees (mostly apples) this spring and since I can't graft
all that quickly (kids, animal chores, life) nor can I plant them out in the
field very quickly, I had to try something new this year.   Rootstocks stayed
in 5 gallon pails of water for the duration and budwood stayed in my fridge
in gallon pails with 2" water.  Every day once I was finished grafting for
the evening, I buried the grafted rootstock (standing upright) to just below
the grafts in damp peat moss in waterproof bins and then put the whole works
in my vegetable cold room. They stayed there for at least a month and then I
put them in my garage for several more weeks while I waited to see which
grafts took before planting them out.  

My bud graft take percentage was terrible (usually I get 80-90% and this time
was more like 25%), but the stick grafting that I tried for the first time
had a 90% take.  And I did all the grafting with cheap box cutter knives from
the dollar store (cutting buds, cutting insertion flaps, shaping sticks,
splitting rootstock wood and splitting rootstock bark).

I think the biggest reason for the terrible bud take was that I was grafting
with budwood taken from above severe winter mouse girdling.  It was was much
more difficult to identify which budwood was still alive when carving off
tiny bud chips, but when shaping up the grafting sticks, any dead wood was
much easier to spot and discard before I used it for grafting.  I also
started out doing only bud grafting and I don't think it was a evident in the
beginning which sticks were dead (dehydration from the girdling).
 
Sarah
zone 3
Edmonton, AB


________________________________
From: Bob Bors <bob.bors@usask.ca>
To: 'North American Fruit Explorers' <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 3:45:50 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting workshop

We do our chipbud grafting when the weather cools in late August in
Saskatchewan Canada. But we do our workshop 2 weeks before that time so
people could do it at home.  We buy parafilm made for grafting from
"Professional Gardener" in Manitoba and it only cost $4 a roll. One roll
will do hundreds of trees.  But I think we have to order 20 rolls minimum.
We sell the rolls at the event.  We tell people to bring a sharp pocket
knife or an exacto knife if they don't have a grafting knife.  In case
people show up without anything we have extra exacto knives that cost $1 or
$2.  The only reason we don't do it in spring is because we are too busy
doing pollination then.
While we do teach chip budding, many people aren't good with knives and
could hurt themselves, so we also bring along a grafting tool that will cut
a V shape for them.
When I teach my Intro Hort students in fall, most times I just give them 1
year shoots to work with, not rootstocks. But when people pay we like to
give them grafted trees to take home.
I visited some nurseries in Pennsylvania who did winter grafting. They put
the plants back into cold storage for the rest of the winter.  I was told
that survival was acceptable but not as good as spring or fall grafting.
Maybe they could be ok for a while in a fridge?  They would heal slowly but
might rot. Trouble with doing dormant in winter is you might get very
stringy growth if they try to grow out inside a house with only winter sun
in the window.  Also what if the plant wants to stay dormant, it would need
some cold to break the dormancy. Don't tell them to put in a freezer. Lots
of new people think that will give a good simulated winter but it won't
satisfy dormancy..only above freezing temps will do that. A freezer would
likely kill the plants.
It always a good idea to warn people that if they aren't comfortable about
handling a knife, just watch!!! Almost every class someone cuts themselves
so bring bandages. So far no one has sued me!


Dr. Bob Bors
Head of  the Fruit Breeding Program
Dept. of Plant Sciences
University of Saskatchewan
51 Campus Dr.
Saskatoon, SK  S0K 3A0
Canada
Program website:  www.fruit.usask.ca



-----Original Message-----
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ginda Fisher
Sent: November-12-11 7:17 AM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting workshop

I'm pretty sure someone else on this list reported poor success with
toilet-sealer-goo. There might be something in it that plants don't like.

The easiest thing I've ever used to seal grafts is parafilm. It's pricey to
buy, but one roll lasts forever. I've had good success with both melted wax
and "grafting compound", but both are a pain to use. I had decent success
with strips of plastic cut from the produce bags at the supermarket. Someone
here reported that he does gazillions of grafts using nothing but masking
tape, and he has good success, but when I tried it a lot of my grafts dried
up and died.

Ginda
Eastern MA, zone 6

On Nov 11, 2011, at 6:17 PM, mike engle wrote:

>
>
> I went to a workshop in Southern Virgina last year and they gave us 5
dormant rootstock, and we got to choose 5 dormant scions.
> They had us use those grafting tools from Lee Valley.  They were easy to
use, but they even said they don't take as well as using a knife.  We used
the goo that you put around your toilet when you put in a new toilet, on the
grafts, and the top of the scion.  Then we wrapped up the graft. I took them
home and potted them(as they told us to do) and let them grow on a window
sill in my patio up in Zone 5 NY.  I think this was in April.
>  I only had 2 out of 5 take.  Mind you, it was my first time grafting.
Even worse, one of the ones that took got caught in a shrub that my mother
put down next to my potted tree and i didn't notice.  I planted the
rootstock for the winter and I think I will try to re-graft this year with a
new cut.
>
> Mike Engle
> Troy, NY 5A
>                        
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>From orders@cuttsreviews.com Mon Nov 14 12:32:53 2011
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Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Nitrogen-fixing shrubs and fruit/nut trees
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This discussion has made me think about the possibility of planting
something like alfalfa or clover directly around some of my small trees.
Here in NM our soil is relatively unfertile and there are some very
invasive grasses, so I have used weed barrier around most trees.

The question is whether the alfalfa or clover would compete with the
tree for water (all the trees are irrigated) and other nutrients.

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's Test Prep Publications
(800) 353-4898
In New Mexico, (505) 281-0684
10 am to 10 pm Mountain Time, 7 days


On 11/14/2011 8:47 AM, Hector Black wrote:
> Hello Steven,
> We've tried Goumi and Autumn olive under fruit and nut trees. Our fruit
> trees, (apple and plum) were low branched and that did not work out well
> when it comes picking time as the shrubs got in the way. One could do some
> severe pruning. The autumn olive seemed to be the most productive of
> nitrogen. And under nut trees the results were wonderful. We had an
> additional 25-35% growth on interplanted trees as against a control group of
> trees without autumn olive. And we still had to do some pruning, but nut
> as much as we gathered from the ground instead of picking off the tree.
> The most astonishing was autumn olive and chinese chestnut. Instead
> of
> being the low branched tree we were used to, the chinese chestnuts grew with
> beautiful 8 ft. and taller trunks. They were slower to bear than the low
> branched trees, but will make wonderful timber trees when the time comes.
> hector black, zone 6 middle tn
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven Covacci"<filtertitle@aol.com>
> To:<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 9:25 PM
> Subject: [NAFEX] Nitrogen-fixing shrubs and fruit/nut trees
>
>
>> Group:
>>
>>
>> Is it especially advisable to plant nitrogen-fixing shrubs (i.e.
>> buffaloberry - Shepherdia; guomi - Elaeagnus; sea-buckthorn - Hippophae;
>> etc.) beneath fruit/nut trees such persimmon and hickory? If you're soil
>> is already moderately fertile, will this help?
>>
>>
>> I like plant native grasses/forbs underneath my trees and I'm afraid
>> that - native choices or not - nitrogen-fixing plants will encourage alien
>> invasive weeds to succeed over the native species.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve; NJ 6b/7a
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>>
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