nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio
List archive
- From: "Michele Stanton" <6ducks@gmail.com>
- To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell
- Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 16:22:05 -0500
The Univ of California’s (English) walnut resources say that the prime cause of shriveled nut meats inside a normal-looking shell is irregular and/or insufficient watering. (Californian English walnuts are grown on black walnut (j. hindsii) rootstocks). However there are a number of fungal diseases that could also cause shriveled nut meats—I am assuming here that some of the same pathogens that afflict j.regia might be possible on our native black walnuts. Were the husks and the shells normal looking? If the husks and shells were normal, and no sign of insect injury, etc., I vote for insufficient soil moisture. WE occasionally saw that with our English walnuts when I was young. In a very warm dry summer we would get some shriveled nuts, but I remember thinking that the nut meats tasted a little sweeter when just slightly shriveled… just a thought. Michele in SW Ohio From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Reich I started cracking some of my black walnuts and they're all shriveled, dry, and black. Inedible. Anyone have any ideas on the cause of this? The summer has been very dry but the walnut tree is large and the water table is not that deep. Last summer was very wet and they were also somewhat dried, but still edible and not blackened. Something wrong with the tree? Late frost (as suggested by Jerry H., although I would think late frost would prevent fruits from forming, not filling out)? All suggestions entertained. Lee Reich, PhD Books by Lee Reich: A Northeast Gardener's Year The Pruning Book Weedless Gardening Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden Landscaping with Fruit On Dec 17, 2010, at 4:52 PM, Dr. Lucky Pittman wrote: Justin, I’d use D.virginiana as rootstock. Grafting is simple – just about any technique will work – simple splice/whip, whip & tongue, but I routinely do a simple bark veneer type graft with a stick of budwood with 2 or 3 good buds. Biggest thing is aftercare – you’ve got to be very diligent, at least for the first season, to keep any shoots from below the graft rubbed off – and you need to do it at least twice a week. From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Justin West Can anyone comment on grafting persimmons and or sourcing rootstocks for them. I am interested in grafting some kaki persimmons and wondering what the best rootstocks would be to use, and whether or not people have experienced issues related to their apparent distaste for root disturbance. _______________________________________________ |
-
[NAFEX] grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks,
Justin West, 12/14/2010
-
Re: [NAFEX] grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks,
Dr. Lucky Pittman, 12/17/2010
-
[NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell,
Lee Reich, 12/17/2010
- Re: [NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell, Michele Stanton, 12/18/2010
-
[NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell,
Lee Reich, 12/17/2010
-
Re: [NAFEX] grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks,
Dr. Lucky Pittman, 12/17/2010
Archive powered by MHonArc 2.6.24.