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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell

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  • From: "Michele Stanton" <6ducks@gmail.com>
  • To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell
  • Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 16:22:05 -0500

The Univ of California’s (English) walnut resources say that the prime cause of shriveled nut meats inside a normal-looking shell is irregular and/or insufficient watering.

(Californian English walnuts are grown on black walnut (j. hindsii) rootstocks). 

 

However there are a number of fungal diseases that could also cause shriveled nut meats—I am assuming here that some of the same pathogens that afflict j.regia might be possible on our native black walnuts.

Were the husks and the shells normal looking? If the husks and shells were normal, and no sign of insect injury, etc., I vote for insufficient soil moisture.

WE occasionally saw that with our English walnuts when I was young.  In a very warm dry summer we would get some shriveled nuts, but I remember thinking that the nut meats tasted a little sweeter when just slightly shriveled…  just a thought.

 

Michele in SW Ohio

 

 

 

 

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Reich
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 5:33 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: [NAFEX] Black walnuts dry in shell

 

I started cracking some of my black walnuts and they're all shriveled, dry, and black. Inedible. Anyone have any ideas on the cause of this? The summer has been very dry but the walnut tree is large and the water table is not that deep. Last summer was very wet and they were also somewhat dried, but still edible and not blackened. Something wrong with the tree? Late frost (as suggested by Jerry H., although I would think late frost would prevent fruits from forming, not filling out)? All suggestions entertained.

 

Lee Reich, PhD

 

Books by Lee Reich:

A Northeast Gardener's Year

The Pruning Book

Weedless Gardening

Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden

Landscaping with Fruit

 

 

 



 

On Dec 17, 2010, at 4:52 PM, Dr. Lucky Pittman wrote:



Justin,

I’d use D.virginiana as rootstock. 

Grafting is simple – just about any technique will work – simple splice/whip, whip & tongue, but I routinely do a simple bark veneer type graft with a stick of budwood with 2 or 3 good buds.

Biggest thing is aftercare – you’ve got to be very diligent, at least for the first season, to keep any shoots from below the graft rubbed off – and you need to do it at least twice a week.

 

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Justin West
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2010 12:34 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] grafting persimmons, sourcing rootstocks

 

 Can anyone comment on grafting persimmons and or sourcing rootstocks for them.  I am interested in grafting some kaki persimmons and wondering what the best rootstocks would be to use, and whether or not people have experienced issues related to their apparent distaste for root disturbance.  
thanks
justin
zone 6-7 nj

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