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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy

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  • From: "Raby, Brian" <brian.raby@roche.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy
  • Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:13:20 -0400

Last year, I did all of my grafts using whip and tongue on the bench, then I
transfered them to a spot in my garden to heal and grow. Not very good
results. So this spring, I was looking at 90 or so rootstocks that were
begging to be grafted again. This time, I used a saddle graft on all of them
with Parafilm and black tar paint. Was feeling very confident with my
effort.

Yesterday, I was walking thru the area where the plants are located and I
noticed that very few scions sticks that had buds which broke. May be a bit
early to write these off, but I'm wondering... for those that are successful
with their grafts, do you have a rule of thumb as to the length of the scion
portion or the number of buds that you leave on the stick when you make your
graft?

I'm think with all the warm weather we've been having that maybe I've left
too much surface area on the scions portion that caused them to dry out.

Brian
Sheridan, IN
Zone 5 a/b

-----Original Message-----
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Bob Hartman
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:20 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy

Before using the Parafilm on stone fruits I would use the whip and tongue
method on the grafting using only budding strips and then dabbing some tree
seal on the tips and letting it dry. Then I would bury the bundle of grafts
(horizontal) on the south side of a sawdust pile for 2 to 3 weeks to start
the healing process. When I would remove them from the sawdust the buds
from the graft would be swelling and everything would look great. I would
plant them out and then a wind would come along and dry out the graft and
many would not survive.

After I started covering all my stone fruit grafts with Parafilm M my
percent of takes increased considerably. I still bury the graftings in the
sawdust and the new buds from the scionwood come right through the Parafilm.
When I plant them out they don't dry out like they did before.

Bob
Western Washington

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Raby, Brian" <brian.raby@roche.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:17 AM
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy

> How necessary do you find it to cover the entire scion with Parafilm in
> order to achieve success rather than just covering over the grafted
> portion?
>
> I have also applied grafting tar to the parafilm to help keep in the
> moisture. This is my first year grafting in the field using a saddle
> graph method and I'm eagerly awaiting the results.
>
> Brian
> Central Indiana
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
> [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Bob Hartman
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 2:55 PM
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy
>
> I have used rootstock that have broken dormancy many times and it makes no
> difference. I always use the whip and tongue method and after the graft
> is
> done I put a layer of Parafilm M over the top covering the graft and the
> whole scion. My % has been very good with using the Parafilm M over the
> top.
>
> Bob
> Western Washington
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Anton Ptak" <antonptak@gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:05 AM
> To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [NAFEX] grafting with rootstock breaking dormancy
>
>> As I have only 1 year grafting experience, I have a question regarding
>> using
>> rootstock that has broken dormancy - does it have much effect on the
>> success
>> of the grafts that the rootstocks are no longer dormant, provided the
>> scionwood is still well dormant?
>>
>> Would chip grafting prove better than whip and toungue in this case, or
>> would either work about equally?
>>
>> We have plum (prunus americana) and cherry rootstock (krymsk-5) that has
>> just started to break, as well as a few OHF 333 pear rootstocks we dug
>> quite
>> awhile ago. We still have plenty of pear and apple rootstocks that are
>> still dormant, however. And there are plum, cherry, and pear scions
>> expected shortly . . .
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Anton in W.Wisc (zone 4a)
>>
>>
>>
>>
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