North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Michael Dossett <phainopepla@yahoo.com>]

If it is possible I would keep soil around the roots as much as possible.  
This will help keep from breaking fine roots which will really help the plant 
recover from the move more quickly.

Brambles have biennial canes, so cutting them back to a few inches does 
several things.  First it removes flowers which may draw energy from the 
plant as it is trying to re-establish, and second it removes top growth that 
will be drawing water from the roots.  Moving plants, disturbs and usually 
breaks off a lot of the fine feeder roots that the plant uses to take up 
moisture and nutrients from the soil.  You don't want excessive top growth 
needing this on a plant whose ability to take up this water has been 
compromised.  With this in mind, all of your plants that you are moving 
should be pruned back to help keep from stressing the plant until it has a 
chance to regrow these new roots.  How hard you prune them back will depend 
on how much of the roots you are disturbing and the size of the plant etc.

Hope this helps some,

Michael



Michael Dossett
Corvallis, Oregon
www.Mdossettphoto.com
phainopepla@yahoo.com


--- On Tue, 3/16/10, Sherlock Terry <sherlocksmith@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Sherlock Terry <sherlocksmith@gmail.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Advice for Transplanting/Dividing Fruiting Plants 
> (Hazelnut, Black  Currant, Juneberry)
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 11:04 AM
> The ground is almost thawed here in
> Northern VT and I've been thinking
> about moving around some 2 and 3 year old plants (not in
> nursery beds)
> while they are dormant. I remember reading somewhere that
> brambles
> should be cut back to a couple of inches above the soil
> level when
> transplanted (to stimulate new root growth?). Are there any
> similar
> pruning rules (stem or root) for other fruiting plants,
> specifically
> hazelnuts, black currants, and juneberries? Aside from
> making sure the
> roots don't dry out, is it advantageous to keep as much
> soil on the on
> the roots as possible rather than treating the plants like
> bare roots?
> I was also wondering if I should pick off flowers the first
> year after
> transplanting?
> 
> As I am writing this I'm thinking that maybe the same rules
> would
> apply when creating new plants from suckers?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Sherlock
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