North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Webmail wynne <wynne@crcwnet.com>]

regarding pear blister mite
apparently this can be transported by birds or just wind, it is very
damaging and is very important to treat  it does not go away  we
sprayed a very strong lime sulfur
spray  it was 8 gallons to the 100 gallons (8%solution)in the fall and
then again
during dormant the next spring    lo and behold,  those babies are goners
the mite only affected certain pear trees, not all different varieties
wynne in nc washington state, sunny and 85 degrees

On 5/24/09, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
<nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
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>
>    1. Re: muscadine question (Richard O'Barr)
>    2. Re: nafex Digest, Vol 76, Issue 108 (H?l?ne Dessureault)
>    3. Re: Pear leaf blister mite (Mark Angermayer)
>    4. pear blister mites (Alan Haigh)
>    5. Re: pear blister mites (Mark Angermayer)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 10:20:53 -0500
> From: Richard O'Barr <topgun@otelco.net>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] muscadine question
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <4A1965D5.5000700@otelco.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
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> Kevin Moore wrote:
>> I remember seeing a piece on a muscadine winery in Carolina that made
>> purportedly awesome table wines from muscadine varietals. For the most
>> part, muscadine volunteers are a weed problem for me here, but I would
>> be interested to know what varietals make good table wines instead of
>> the really sweet wines that everyone in Louisiana seems to make. (They
>> may not be Muscadine volunteers because the wild grapes do form in
>> bunches, but I have never let them ripen. I assumed they were probably
>> worthless.)
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Lon J. Rombough <lonrom@hevanet.com>
>> *To:* North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 21, 2009 8:35:19 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [NAFEX] Fw: Black Monukka Grape Opinions
>>
>> If you live where muscadines grow, odds are good your other grapes
>> aren't going to live long.  If you want bunch grapes you'll need to
>> get varieties resistant to Pierce's Disease,  a bacterial disease that
>> attacks grapes.  Muscadines  are resistant, or able to tolerate it,
>> but it kills or seriously weakens bunch grapes not bred to resist it.
>>   Besides many grapes bred by T.V. Munson, there are some from Florida
>> and Mississippi programs that are resistant.  Florida grapes include
>> Stover, Conquistador and Lake Emerald, to name a few. Mississippi
>> grapes include MissBlue and MissBlanc.  I believe I mentioned some of
>> the ones from Munson earlier.
>> -Lon Rombough
>> NEW grape pruning video: http://www.bunchgrapes.com/dvd.html View a
>> short, low resolution clip here:
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q58zFY0B1M
>> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
>> http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association
>> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
>> For all other things grape,  http://www.vitisearch.com
>> A video about The Grape Grower :
>> http://cookingupastory.com/index.php/2008/04/18/the-grape-grower/
>> On May 21, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Ron wrote:
>>
>>
>> Admittedly I am a grape novice and I don't remember my criteria for
>> selecting what I did, but from now on if I need to replace something
>> I'll make southern hardiness the prime factor.  Any fruit is better
>> than none.  If anybody in my region has an variety that does really
>> well for them, I would like to know.
>>
>> For what it's worth, about 4 years ago I planted one of each Fredonia,
>> White Niagara, Blue Concord, Red Catawba and Himrod.
>>
>> The Concord was not thriving one year and then died the
>> following winter so was replaced by Jupiter.   The following winter
>> the Fredonia died and is being replaced by the Black Monukka.  I only
>> have room for 5 table grapes.
>>
>> However, parallel to them are 3 Muscadines: one called Dixie Red, a
>> Fry Bronze, and one we call Jane's Purple because our friend by that
>> name gave it to us.
>>
>> Thanks for all your comments,
>> Ron: Zone 7b, NW Georgia
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
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>>
> Muscadines for wine in the south are Carlos; white, Ison; black, Noble;
> black, and Magnolia; white. Of course the original Scuppernong; white
> wine, but it is female and bears less than the others mentioned.
>
> TG
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:00:53 -0400
> From: H?l?ne Dessureault <interverbis@videotron.ca>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 76, Issue 108
> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <C5D1F7A76CA848BEA91B085D7C1B89DF@helene876094a31>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
>       reply-type=original
>
> All you have to do is stop the ants from climbing in the tree. This is not
> an "old wives tale". Ant are aphids farmers and protect them against natural
> predators. Without ants, aphids don't do too well usually, not enough to do
> noticeable damages to a tree.
> You can surround the trunk of the tree with a wide band of masking tape or
> other material, and on this tape put a ring of Tanglefoot (not directly on
> the bark of the tree is the idea). The ring of Tanglefoot should be
> continuous and wide enough (at least an inch) so that the ant cannot build a
> bridge accross. They do this by sacrifycing their own, when the obstacle is
> not too large... Make sure they cannot get under as well....
> You will find that the population of aphids won't last long without the ants
> to support.
>
> Good luck, Please let us know the results,
>
> H?l?ne, zone 3-4, north of Ottawa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Webmail wynne" <wynne@crcwnet.com>
> To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 76, Issue 108
>
>
>> regarding ants on trees
>> each year the aphids practically defoliate certain plum trees   the
>> fruits are undamaged (unlike the apples with aphids) but it can hardly
>> be good for the
>> trees  i am farming organically (certified)
>> any "old wives tales" regarding alternative effective controls?
>> wynne in nc wa state  87 degrees and sunny
>>
>> On 5/23/09, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>> <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
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>>>
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>>    1. Winterkill in Black Raspberries??? (Jim Fruth)
>>>    2. Re: Scionwood to Mongolia (Kieran &/or Donna)
>>>    3. Biennial Bramley (Alan Haigh)
>>>    4. never-ending Winter (Ernest Plutko)
>>>    5. bugs?  Do ants pollinate. (Ernest Plutko)
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:01:19 -0500
>>> From: "Jim Fruth" <jimfruth@charter.net>
>>> Subject: [NAFEX] Winterkill in Black Raspberries???
>>> To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>>> Message-ID: <3B959E4610A141CDB42A37BEC37C0F27@ibma20plaptop>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>>> reply-type=original
>>>
>>> Michael Dossett wrote, ""Winterkill" is a problem with black raspberries
>>> wherever they are grown."
>>>
>>>     I don't think I can agree with the word "wherever".  Sure I have
>>> unsprouted canes here and there but the problem is never wide-spread.
>>> None
>>> of the folks that I've sold plants to have ever mentioned winter-killed
>>> plants either.  Could it be the variety(s) that your people have that are
>>> the problem?  Everyone here has the Pequot Black Raspberry.
>>>     My plants seem to live eight to ten years and I replace 10 to 15% of
>>> them every year.  There is one exception though:  I have a patch with
>>> virus
>>> infected plants that have outlived all other plants.  These are my most
>>> productive except that the berries have too few druplets to be worth
>>> picking.  Not picking them takes the bird pressure off the other areas.
>>> I've not replaced them also to try and figure out how the virus spreads,
>>> a
>>> mystery that has baffled me for some years now.  The virus doesn't seem
>>> to
>>> be spread via vectors because adjacent healthy plants don't get infected.
>>> So what else?
>>>
>>> Jim Fruth
>>> Brambleberry Farm
>>> Pequot Lakes, MN  56472
>>> For jams, jellies, syrups and more:
>>> www.jellygal.com
>>> 1-877-265-6856 (Toll Free)
>>> 1-218-831-7018 (My Cell)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:38:40 -0500
>>> From: "Kieran &/or Donna" <holycow@frontiernet.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Scionwood to Mongolia
>>> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>>> Message-ID: <1DCCCCE85A574985805EBE33B72852B0@YOUR20FE224C19>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>>
>>> What puzzled me is that Mongolia should be a source of hardy apples.  Is
>>> it
>>> legal to send apple scions to Mongolia, and even if it is legal, how many
>>> pests do we have that could travel in scionwood?  I'd think that seeds
>>> would
>>> be safest.  They'd have to make their own selections, but if the seeds
>>> were
>>> from cross pollination, they'd have genes from both parents to choose
>>> from.
>>>    Donna
>>> P.S.  Surely Russia is closer.  Officially Mongolia is part of China, and
>>>
>>> I
>>> expect that not much living plant matter gets in from the north ie
>>> Russia.
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>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 10:13:32 -0400
>>> From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: [NAFEX] Biennial Bramley
>>> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>> Message-ID:
>>> <1f544d60905230713j2d0ff907sde7e730e8f47cfe8@mail.gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Of course, biennial bearing is related to a wide range of factors.  Just
>>> as
>>> a cool wet spring can prevent flowers from setting fruit, inadequate days
>>>
>>> of
>>> full sun and periods of cool can stop a tree from manufacturing adequate
>>> carbohydrate to invest in flower bud formation for the following year.
>>>
>>> The longer fruit hangs on the tree the more of an investment is required
>>> in
>>> carbohydrate whether we're talking tiny surplus apples (which need to be
>>> thinned by about 2 weeks after petal fall) or the harvest itself.  Even
>>> the
>>> level of brix that an apple develops is directly related to how much
>>> energy
>>> was required for its formation.  High brix apples tend to have more
>>> biennial
>>> issues just as late ripening ones do.  Fuji and Goldrush are both
>>> extremely
>>> high brix and very late.
>>>
>>> Imagine how much more energy an apple tree in the West can harvest with
>>> the
>>> nearly rainless, cloudless growing season, except on the coast, than
>>> those
>>> of us in more humid parts of the country.  Imagine how much more light
>>> can
>>> be harvested from a tree growing in the open.  On hot days the stomates
>>> close and carbo production is brought till a standstill after mid-morning
>>> until early evening- especially on apples.
>>>
>>> Thinning fruit is helpful but not a panacea, no matter how timely.
>>> Pruning
>>> a tree in an open form so each branch gets the maximum amount of sun also
>>> helps.  Anything that augments a trees ability to harvest light near
>>> where
>>> the fruit is or will form next year including some summer pruning may
>>> help.
>>>
>>> On the Bramley in question the fact that it is on seedling rootstock may
>>> actually be quite helpful.  I manage a lot of huge apple trees of
>>> varieties
>>> that are notorious for biennial bearing and I believe that vigorous root
>>> stocks are less prone to this problem if managed properly.
>>>
>>> I usually gradually remove much of the highest wood to create a low
>>> spreading tree where no large branches block the light of any other.  I
>>> kind
>>> of create a single plane branch structure that has plenty of room.  As
>>> the
>>> old timers used to say- "needs to be open enough that you can throw a cat
>>> through it".
>>>
>>> I mop out the water sprouts in mid- summer on the more vigorous trees so
>>> the
>>> light and sap goes where it's needed.
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>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 4
>>> Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:58:01 -0500
>>> From: "Ernest Plutko" <ernestplutko@wiktel.com>
>>> Subject: [NAFEX] never-ending Winter
>>> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>> Message-ID: <380-22009562316581187@wiktel.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>>>
>>> The Northern Lights apple, Harelred apple and Golden Spice pear
>>> didn't make it through the winter.  I planted them last Spring.  Too
>>> cold even though they are labeled as zone 3.  Frost tonight, snow on
>>> ground last week, frosts almost every night.  Winter never ends.
>>> Leaves on trees are very shy about opening this Spring.    Zone
>>> labeling on fruit trees are too optimistic.  It was -45 F or colder
>>> last Winter.
>>>
>>> Minnesota zone 3 or maybe zone 2.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 5
>>> Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 12:05:12 -0500
>>> From: "Ernest Plutko" <ernestplutko@wiktel.com>
>>> Subject: [NAFEX] bugs?  Do ants pollinate.
>>> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>> Message-ID: <380-2200956231751231@wiktel.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>>>
>>> I was in yard this morning to inspect every fruit tree and saw no
>>> bugs except one ant. I saw a bumblebee a few days ago and was
>>> surprised to see it.  Honeybees are a memory.  Do ants pollinate?
>>> Ants on trees are usually tending their aphids.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
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>>> End of nafex Digest, Vol 76, Issue 108
>>> **************************************
>>>
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:00:03 -0500
> From: "Mark Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Pear leaf blister mite
> To: "Anton Callaway" <marillen@earthlink.net>,        "North American Fruit
>       Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <000901c9dc91$17ac3460$951ef504@computer5>
> Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I believe I read to treat it that way in one of the trades.  Scaffolds, MSUs
> newsletter, FGN?  I can't remember which one..
>
> One thing to mention is that oil supposedly makes trees more susceptible to
> winter kill, if sprayed in the fall.  We don't generally get very low winter
> minimums here, but that might be a consideration for folks farther north.
> One spray before bud break in the spring might do just as good as a fall and
> spring spraying, I dunno.  You could ask USDA pear breeder Richard Bell, who
> also helped with a positive I.D. in my case.  It looked like he had a post
> on this list a few weeks back.
>
> Mark
> KS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Anton Callaway" <>
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 6:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Pear leaf blister mite
>
>
>> What's the reasoning behind the spray at 50% leaf drop?
>> Anton
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Mark Angermayer <>
>> >Sent: May 21, 2009 10:10 PM
>> >To: fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com, North American Fruit Explorers
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> >Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Pear leaf blister mite
>> >
>> >I had pear blister mite for several years and never knew what it was.  Ed
>> >Fackler helped me figure it out.  It only attacked some pears, even
> though
>> >they are all in the same row.  I did an oil  spray last fall at 50% leaf
>> >drop, then again before bud break.  It pretty much eliminated it this
>> >season.
>> >
>> >Mark
>> >KS
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "fuwa fuwa usagi" <>
>> >To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> >Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 8:47 PM
>> >Subject: [NAFEX] Pear leaf blister mite
>> >
>> >
>> >> Okay so I have something that looks like pear leaf blister mite damage,
>> >reference:
>> >>
>> >>
> http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nurspest/pear_leaf_blister_mite%20closeup2.htm
>> >>
>> >> Here is the thing I find odd.  It only occurs on the same tree every
> year
>> >(Harvest Queen) which is next to Harrow Sweet which suffers no damage nor
> do
>> >the other pear trees in the area.  Year after year it is only this tree
> that
>> >suffers. More - there is one branch of Warren grafted to this tree and it
>> >never suffers damage.  Any thoughts?
>> >>
>> >> Curious,
>> >>
>> >> the fluffy one
>> >>
>> >> _____________________________________________________________
>> >> The Free Email with so much more!
>> >> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 13:02:47 -0400
> From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] pear blister mites
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID:
>       <1f544d60905241002g2f5afd19sc4514e87dd5494ab@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I wouldn't bother spraying trees when half defoliated.  The mites are
> unreachable with oil or poison once they enter the leaves so I think the
> best time to oil them is right before bud break- works for me.
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:18:49 -0500
> From: "Mark Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] pear blister mites
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <004401c9dc93$b61e1da0$951ef504@computer5>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Alan, you and Anton made me wonder the reason for the fall spray.  After a
> little internet search, it refreshed my memory.  As I recall,  mites enter
> the bud scales in the fall, where they are protected from spray.  The idea
> is to get a good kill before that.   I suppose the spring spray is a
> cleanup.  That said, I might try just a spring spray and see what happens.
>
> Mark
> KS
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Alan Haigh
>   To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>   Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 12:02 PM
>   Subject: [NAFEX] pear blister mites
>
>
>   I wouldn't bother spraying trees when half defoliated.  The mites are
> unreachable with oil or poison once they enter the leaves so I think the
> best time to oil them is right before bud break- works for me.
>
>
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> End of nafex Digest, Vol 76, Issue 111
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