North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Kevin Bradley <bradleyk1998@yahoo.com>]

I do quite a bit of grafting onto larger rootstocks,  the method I use has a higher success rate than whip and tongue due to increased cambial contact. It is also very sturdy, I would not do any more bark grafts, they aren't any quicker than the graft I use which has been called a modified whip and tongue graft I believe. What you do is cut the scion just like you were doing a whip and tongue and then on the rootstock make your whip cut end about 3/4 of the way (longitudinally), don't cut all the way through the rootstock (radially), only enough to cut off enough wood to match the caliper of the scion; put a notch in and voila, success and strengh.

kevin bradley

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From: "bluestem_farm@juno.com" <bluestem_farm@juno.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 6:19:23 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting onto large b9 rootstock

Jerry,

I've done a little grafting onto B-9, and I probably had the best success rates with bark grafting; I've done it with rootstocks as small as 1/4".  For bark grafting your scion is still dormant, but you wait until the root has just begun to grow so that the bark will slip.  There are good pictures of bark grafts in many fruit books, also in The Grafter's Handbook.  It isn't quite as sturdy a graft for a few years so if it grows fast you may need to stake the new growth to keep it from blowing loose on a windy day.

Muffy Barrett
SC Wisconsin

-- "jerry sietsema"  wrote:

Two years ago I got some b9 rootstock that I never got around to grafting.Around 100 of them.I only do dormant grafting.They are quite large now in the nursery.1/2 inch??What is the best way to graft now for a rookie grafter?Modified cleft graft??        thanks Skip S. z5-6

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