North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[tanis cuff <tanistanis@hotmail.com>]

I agree w/ Jerry's advice, as this is simple and if you have enough pockets 
for tools this is easy on the back (no stooping over.)  But isn't there 
research results which say lower graft height results in better production?  
I wish I could recall whether it was better fruit quantity or quality or 
both, and whether cultivar of rootstock & topwork mattered greatly.  If you 
are producing new fruit trees "only" for home production (no offense to 
dedicated hobbyists!) or for preservation of fruiting cultivars, then Jerry-- 
& my-- method should be OK.
 
Ideally, try an assortment of graft methods, to learn which gives you best 
results or most successes per hour.
 
 
tc, sWI, collecting scionwood on-&-off this warmer week, anyone want cuttings 
of stuff I've chatted about in the past?
  

________________________________
From: Jwlehman@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 16:01:25 -0500
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting onto large B9 rootstock

In a message dated 2/10/2009 3:11:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, disk@iserv.net 
writes:

" Two years ago I got some b9 rootstock that I never got around to 
grafting.Around 100 of them.I only do dormant grafting.They are quite large 
now in the nursery.1/2 inch??What is the best way to graft now for a rookie 
grafter?Modified cleft graft?? thanks Skip S. z5-6"



 Skip,

My suggestion is waiting until growth has begun, then move up to a point 
where the understock and scion stick are equal in size, then use a splice or 
whip & tongue graft. If there are limbs below this level, cut them off. If 
the main stem is split into two leaders can graft one variety to each. This 
will work very very well.

Jerry
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live™: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. 
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009