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  • From: Steven Moize <shadygrove@embarqmail.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [NAFEX] organic-ish pest control in plums and peaches
  • Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 21:24:09 -0400 (EDT)


Hi all,

I have a question about using Bonide lime-sulfur spray on my plums for
borers. I assume they are borers. There are tiny (1cm) larva at the pit,
bored in from the outside.

Any info on this product? Any suggestions?

Steve




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Today's Topics:

1. Planting trees 2-3' apart (Jim Fruth)
2. blueberries and, sigh, one more comment on orchard ladders
(Alan Haigh)
3. Re: blueberries, kiwis, grapes, deer (Hal Love)
4. Re: blueberries (Betty Mayfield)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:01:21 -0500
From: "Jim Fruth" <jfruth@tds.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] Planting trees 2-3' apart
To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <005a01c8c64b$78dff850$0300a8c0@ibma20plaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

About a dozen or so years ago, a fellow from the South Eastern Minnesota
Apple Industry (I forgot his name) wrote a book/pamphlet called, "Plant them
tight and manage them right." In it he extolled the benefits of close
spacing of apple trees, like 4' apart. Because of the (claimed) benefits, I
was almost ready to start ordering trees, but, thinking the better of it, I
decided I wanted to confront him with a few questions. During our phone
conversation, he happened to mention that he was talking about columnar
apple trees, a fact that he hadn't mentioned in his book. Oh joy! I wonder
how many folks followed his advice without knowing what type of tree he
wrote about.

Jim Fruth
Brambleberry Farm
Pequot Lakes, MN 56472
For jams, jellies & syrups:
www.bberryfarm.com
(877)265-6856 [Store]
(218)831-7018 [My Cell]



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 10:30:34 -0400
From: "Alan Haigh" <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] blueberries and, sigh, one more comment on orchard
ladders
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID:
<1f544d60806040730j5325af3dg8a726e383b8145e7@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The main debate on blueberry flavor is usually between the wild lowbush
blueberries and the domesticated highbush (not that highbush don't exist in
the wild). I really think the variations in flavor should not be the
primary motivation in highbush cultivar selection, for most, the differences
aren't that pronounced.

Consider yeald and time of harvest (early, mid and late season) and perhaps
the size of the berry. Personally I like the largest ones because it takes
less time to pick more and those huge berries sure impress the neighbors. I
don't think size leads to blandness incidentally and neither do my
neighbors. Believe me, once the plants are well established harvesting is
time consuming.

In my zone 6, I recommend Duke and Patriot for early, Berkely and Bluecrop
for mid and most importantly, Elliot for a great delayed crop. Hartmanns
carries these and many others including Bonus which they claim produces the
worlds largest blueberries. They are big!

In Neils 2nd response to my ladder advise he suggests that 3 legs can be
more stable than 4, a point I won't bother trying to debate but he suggests
that his tri-pod is more time effiecient because of time wasted stablizing a
loose leg, and that's just plain wrong in my experience. I actually only
have to shimmy a leg very rarely on ground that is extremely sloping in more
than one direction. In all the scores of orchards I manage I only have to
shimmy a leg a few times a year. Because the Little Giant system allows you
to walk up one side and down the other it vastly increases range
between moving the ladder so you spend a lot less time getting off the
ladder and moving it. This makes my work much more efficient.
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:35:01 -0600
From: "Hal Love" <lovehd@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] blueberries, kiwis, grapes, deer
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <001101c8c658$975dd5b0$487281a0@HayLabMicro>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

There are lots of great blueberry varieties out there, but some will do
better than others depending on where you grow them. I would suggest finding
local blueberry farms and asking what varieties they grow, and most
importantly, which varieties did not do well for them.

Kiwi trellises need to be really strong, as the vines will eventually get
big and heavy. Hector Black told me his single 'Anna' vine produces 300 lbs
of fruit each year. When I first saw the enormous vine, I instantly realized
my trellises were not nearly strong enough. It may take many years to get to
that size, but that should give you an idea of what you will be dealing
with. A strong pergola type structure may be the best choice if only a
couple of vines are going in.

Deer will eat the new shoots on kiwi vines, but once they reach the wire,
they should be ok. My trellises have the wires about 7 feet high, and I have
never had deer problems with any shoots more than about 4 feet up. I use
wire cages around them until they reach the wire, then remove the cages once
they have established a trunk.

Hal
zn 6/7 TN

----- Original Message -----
From: "Melissa Kacalanos" <mijwiz@yahoo.com>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 2:09 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] blueberries, kiwis, grapes, deer


> My husband and I finally bought a place with room to
> plant fruit, and now we're hoping we have time to get
> a few plants in the ground this year. I know it's kind
> of late, though. I have some questions:
>
> What are the best (meaning tastiest, while still
> fairly high-yielding and trouble free) blueberries?
> When I look up varieties, all the descriptions sound
> pretty much the same, except for the obvious
> differences between the little wild ones and the big
> cultivated ones.
>
> We'd like to plant hardy kiwi vines ASAP, since they
> apparently take years to get old enough to fruit. Do
> deer eat the vines? In that case, we shouldn't plant
> them until after the deer fence goes up. Also, any
> recommendations for how to build a trellis for them? I
> understand that they need a lot of support, but what
> does that mean exactly in terms of materials and
> design?
>
> I had an idea to make our deer fence less ugly by
> growing vines on it, for example, kiwis and grapes,
> but this would only work if the deer don't eat them.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Melissa
> zone 5, Ithaca, NY



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 09:51:03 -0700
From: Betty Mayfield <bmayfield@opusnet.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] blueberries
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <200806040951955.SM10636@toshiba-user.opusnet.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


I must respectfully disagree. Flavor is the only important thing. I
have eaten the little wild lowbush blueberries in Alaska and the
Washington Cascades and, while I obviously have not tasted all the
domestic ones, the only variety I have found that carries even a hint
of the wild flavor is Blueray. The others are just sweet and bland.

I read an account once written by Frederick V. Colville on his early
work on breeding commercial blueberries from wild selections. He said
that when he had a field full of experimental hybrids he would go
through and taste them, rejecting the ones that were not flavorful,
no matter how big and strong they were. Today catalogs emphasize only
size and ignore flavor.

Betty Mayfield
Northwest Oregon

At 07:30 AM 6/4/2008, Alan Haigh wrote:
>The main debate on blueberry flavor is usually between the wild
>lowbush blueberries and the domesticated highbush (not that highbush
>don't exist in the wild). I really think the variations in flavor
>should not be the primary motivation in highbush cultivar selection,
>for most, the differences aren't that pronounced.
>
>Consider yeald and time of harvest (early, mid and late season) and
>perhaps the size of the berry. Personally I like the largest ones
>because it takes less time to pick more and those huge berries sure
>impress the neighbors. I don't think size leads to blandness
>incidentally and neither do my neighbors. Believe me, once the
>plants are well established harvesting is time consuming.
>
>In my zone 6, I recommend Duke and Patriot for early, Berkely and
>Bluecrop for mid and most importantly, Elliot for a great delayed
>crop. Hartmanns carries these and many others including Bonus which
>they claim produces the worlds largest blueberries. They are big!
>
<snip>




------------------------------

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End of nafex Digest, Vol 65, Issue 7
************************************


--
Steven Moize





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