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  • From: derry&bill <wchase@interchange.ubc.ca>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [NAFEX] non-blooming whip
  • Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 19:38:18 -0700

Tom,

I don't think so.

When I'm choosing scionwood, I avoid water shoots.

I also avoid new wood growing downwards, and laterally.

I try to find new wood growing at a 45-60° angle.

I think water sprouts have too much auxin and this discourages fruit buds at least for a few years.

If I were you I'd bend the branches of your non-flowering fruit tree perhaps to a 45° angle. This should slow down the sap and encourage flower buds to form.

Also make sure something else is not happening e.g. frost kill of buds, birds/bugs eating the flower buds, brief bloomtime and you didn't notice it.

You don't say how long ago you grafted the tree and what do you mean by a dwarf apple from a cow pasture? The seedling apple tree was a wimp?

If it was when you were new to grafting, maybe it was a pear seedling r/s, not an apple seedling r/s.

Derry


Is a scion graft from a water sprout as fruitful as a normal growth scion?

The tree did graft very oddly. The scion grew in its diameter faster than
the rootstock. For example, the scion had a diameter of 1 ½”after two
years, and the rootstock was only 1” in diameter. It has balanced out now.
The rootstock was a dwarf apple from a cattle pasture. It looked like an
old, twisted apple tree, in a 3’ whip.

I did a simple splice graft, it being the first thing I ever grafted.
The scion was from an Improved Snow (local Fameuse variant) and it came from
a circa 1918 standard sized tree.

I know, I know… Patience is the biggest step.

Tom




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