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- From: "loneroc" <loneroc@mwt.net>
- To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] cherry budwood question
- Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:36:10 -0500
Check with Bob Purvis, the NAFEX apricot chair
(address in Pomona) and ask him for the temperature range that cherries form
callus tissue. My recollection is about 65F, but confirm the specifics
with him. Cherries are very particular about temperature after
grafting.
S6teve Herje
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 11:02
PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] cherry budwood
question
In a message dated 6/27/2005 10:50:24 AM US
Eastern Standard Time, markl@nytec.com
writes:
In the past I have been unsuccessful doing whip-and-tongue
grafts of cherry scionwood in the spring. This year I was thinking
of trying budding. When is it time to cut cherry budwood, and when
is it time to bud? Should I have cut dormant cherry scionwood
for budding in the summer? -Mark Lee, Seattle zone
8a
Hello Mark,
I don't have extensive experience
grafting sweet cherry but have done a few last and this spring.
Based
on this experience my answer is yes, use scion wood collected while dormant.
But store the scion wood in a very cold refrigerator. As near to
freezing as possible. Prunus begins bud break early spring and likewise if the
storage temp is around 45 they think spring is arrived and bud swell and
elongation begins. Once this happens the success rate drops drastically. Its
stored energy is used up, none left for callousing. I haven't counted but
believe my success rate this year is about 70 percent using dormant wood
stored at about 34 F (jugs of water used as a buffer to reduce cycling were
partially frozen) then grafted in May.
I don't believe it would
work well for fall budding. You would want current summers growth budwood.
If anyone wants an exact number I'll count and provide.
Jerry,
zone 5b.
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