Hi Mark;
I've never seen Brome, nor Buffalo Grass, the latter's seeds are
expensive.
I just planted an acre in tall fescue (KY 31) last year.
Good drought tolerance; grows real fast though...you'll be a mowin'.
Buffalo Grass might poop out in the fall, and be slow to green up in
Spring?
I almost used creeping red fescue; hardy, doesn't grow real fast.
Probably should have...............
Has anybody put down 100% creeping red??
Richard
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:00
PM
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 29, Issue
20
Send nafex mailing list submissions to nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
To
subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex or,
via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
You
can reach the person managing the list at nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
When
replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re:
Contents of nafex digest..."
Today's Topics:
1.
grass type for orchard? (Mark River) 2. Re: grass type for
orchard? (Charles Paradise) 3. round head apple borer (Del
Stubbs) 4. RE: Bagging Apples Experiment - Questions (Nathan
Torgerson) 5. RE: Bagging Apples Experiment - Questions
(Naomi)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message:
1 Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:54:12 -0700 From: "Mark River" <mark@markriver.com> Subject:
[NAFEX] grass type for orchard? To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID:
<31d6431c99d7481eaa7695097cc244ea@markriver.com
href="mailto:31d6431c99d7481eaa7695097cc244ea@markriver.com">31d6431c99d7481eaa7695097cc244ea@markriver.com> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello, I'm planting a small hobby
orchard (pawpaw, persimmon, peach, cherry, etc) into an old brome field. I am
mulching 3' or so around each of the trees. Someone told me that brome is a
bad companion for trees as its dense root system crowds out the tree roots.
What type of grass is ideal for an orchard? Has anyone tried buffalo grass? I
would like something that ideally I don't have to mow... How bad of a problem
will I have if I leave the brome?
Thanks, Mark Manning, Iowa,
zone 5a -------------- next part -------------- An HTML
attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex/attachments/20050607/a8dad5cb/attachment-0001.htm
------------------------------
Message:
2 Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 21:09:33 -0400 From: Charles Paradise <machelp@attglobal.net> Subject:
[NAFEX] Re: grass type for orchard? To: mark@markriver.com, North American Fruit
Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID:
<42A64511.8BAB4174@attglobal.net
href="mailto:42A64511.8BAB4174@attglobal.net">42A64511.8BAB4174@attglobal.net> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
An HTML attachment was
scrubbed... URL: https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex/attachments/20050607/d60810e7/attachment-0001.htm
------------------------------
Message:
3 Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 21:15:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Del Stubbs <northernlights2n@yahoo.com> Subject:
[NAFEX] round head apple borer To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID:
<20050608041557.33731.qmail@web52901.mail.yahoo.com
href="mailto:20050608041557.33731.qmail@web52901.mail.yahoo.com">20050608041557.33731.qmail@web52901.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
The fellow whose orchard I helped move
called me to say he and a neighbor have a few trees dead or dying
apparently from 'round head apple borers'. They have tried the
wire stick-em technique, not satisfactorily. One univeristy fruit grower
said to use chlordane around the base. I guess they can still find some of
the nasty stuff, and want any ideas on minimalist application techniques
such as.....spray just at ground level? only squirt in holes? mix with
oil? How's about alternatives to chlordane? He said one book
described doing agressive digging into the tree...is this with a drill, a
gouge? How deep before the cure is worse than the disease? I have noticed 3
young dead trees this winter here as well, haven't inspected thoroughly yet
- one disadvantage of the screen vole guard mine all have. Any thoughts most
welcome, Del MN
Del Stubbs http://www.pinewoodforge.com
zone 3 N.
MN
__________________________________________________ Do You
Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection
around http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message: 4 Date: Tue, 7
Jun 2005 21:28:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Nathan Torgerson <nathantorgerson@yahoo.com> Subject:
RE: [NAFEX] Bagging Apples Experiment - Questions To: North American Fruit
Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID:
<20050608042848.49948.qmail@web60723.mail.yahoo.com
href="mailto:20050608042848.49948.qmail@web60723.mail.yahoo.com">20050608042848.49948.qmail@web60723.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have used the Baggies brand with
twist-ties for four years with success (no cuts in the bags, but if water does
collect in them, which happen to a few a year, I cut the corners slightly to
drain the water. I haven't been able to grow my apples as big as
Naomi's, so I haven't had any bags break :) As
mentioned by others, the advantage of using clear bags is that you don't
remove the bags to ripen the apples, just pick them, bag and all, when they
are ready and put 'em in the fridge.
I usually try to bag as
soon as the apples are big enough to hold a bag (the size of a dime, sometimes
even smaller). This year I bagged half my apples (about 50) on June 1st,
which was later than I hoped (Zone 4 Minnesota). While bagging I noticed
that almost all of the apples were clean. I finished my bagging on June
3rd, but by that time about 70% of the remaining unbagged apples had been
damaged by plum curculio egg laying. Fortunately I had left the parts of the
tree that needed thinning for last (due to laziness), so I was able to salvage
enough of the remaining apples, picking off the ones that had been damaged.
Does anyone know how bad a single plum curculio bite damages an apple? I've
read that if the apple stays on the tree that the larvae die anyway because
apples are too firm for them...but I wasn't going to waste time bagging it if
it was already damaged.
All the articles I've read talk about bagging
to help against the apple maggot (which shows up later) and post-blossoming
codling moths attacks, but I hadn't heard anyone mention bagging to protect
against plum curculio damage. It works if you bag early enough. I bagged
my pears this year for that reason. (Last year the handful of pears I ripened
well).
Nate
--------------------------------- Discover
Yahoo! Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the
weekend. Check it out! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML
attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex/attachments/20050607/6e08e9b0/attachment-0001.htm
------------------------------
Message:
5 Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 22:35:10 -0600 From: "Naomi" <dragon-star@cableone.net> Subject:
RE: [NAFEX] Bagging Apples Experiment - Questions To: "'North American
Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID:
<1118205334_53059@S1.cableone.net
href="mailto:1118205334_53059@S1.cableone.net">1118205334_53059@S1.cableone.net> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
It was the Gravenstein. The others
were okay. I never thought of putting them in the bag in the
fridge. Naomi
_____
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]
On Behalf Of Nathan Torgerson Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:29 PM To:
North American Fruit Explorers Subject: RE: [NAFEX] Bagging Apples
Experiment - Questions
I have used the Baggies brand with
twist-ties for four years with success (no cuts in the bags, but if water
does collect in them, which happen to a few a year, I cut the corners
slightly to drain the water. I haven't been able to grow my
apples as big as Naomi's, so I haven't had any bags
break :) As mentioned by others, the advantage of using
clear bags is that you don't remove the bags to ripen the apples, just pick
them, bag and all, when they are ready and put 'em in the fridge.
I usually try to bag as soon as the apples are big enough to hold a
bag (the size of a dime, sometimes even smaller). This year I bagged
half my apples (about 50) on June 1st, which was later than I hoped (Zone 4
Minnesota). While bagging I noticed that almost all of the apples were
clean. I finished my bagging on June 3rd, but by that time about 70%
of the remaining unbagged apples had been damaged by plum curculio egg
laying. Fortunately I had left the parts of the tree that needed thinning
for last (due to laziness), so I was able to salvage enough of the
remaining apples, picking off the ones that had been damaged. Does anyone
know how bad a single plum curculio bite damages an apple? I've read that
if the apple stays on the tree that the larvae die anyway because apples
are too firm for them...but I wasn't going to waste time bagging it if it
was already damaged.
All the articles I've read talk about bagging to
help against the apple maggot (which shows up later) and post-blossoming
codling moths attacks, but I hadn't heard anyone mention bagging to protect
against plum curculio damage. It works if you bag early enough. I
bagged my pears this year for that reason. (Last year the handful of pears
I ripened well).
Nate
_____
Discover
Yahoo! Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend.
Check <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=32658/*http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html> it
out! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was
scrubbed... URL: https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex/attachments/20050607/ee9b4d5c/attachment-0001.htm
------------------------------
_______________________________________________ nafex
mailing list nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
**YOU
MUST BE SUBSCRIBED TO POST!** All other messages are discarded. No
exceptions. ---- To subscribe or unsubscribe, go to the bottom of
this page (also can be used to change other email options): http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
File
attachments are NOT stripped by this list. TAKE STEPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF
FROM COMPUTER VIRUSES! Please do not send binary files. Use plain text
ONLY in emails!
Message archives are here: http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex
NAFEX
web site: http://www.nafex.org/
End of nafex
Digest, Vol 29, Issue
20 *************************************
|