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nafex - [NAFEX] Re: nafex Digest, Vol 14, Issue 89

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  • From: Rondi Anderson <nafex@mokalive.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [NAFEX] Re: nafex Digest, Vol 14, Issue 89
  • Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 19:53:02 -0600

From: Ronda Anderson <rondi@mokalive.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] after-care for grafted trees
Date: March 28, 2004 7:43:29 PM CST
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

In the Fruit Grafters Handbook by Burford and Feckler I've read that callusing can be controlled by temp. Basically the warmer the temp the faster the callusing, of course to a degree as to high of a temp would dry out the wood and freezing would likely kill the scion. I think the trick is to check on them periodically to see how they are doing.

I also has trouble with the tongue portion until about the 40th rootstock.

Rondi



On Mar 28, 2004, at 11:07 AM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 20:01:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Lisa Almarode <lisaalmarode@yahoo.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] after-care for grafted trees
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID: <20040328040103.56718.qmail@web60004.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I know the newly bench grafted trees (apple/pear)
should not get too hot, but what's the ideal
aftercare? Keep in the house (67°-70°) - for how
long, a couple of weeks? or put outside (right now
35°-70°)? Potted (in a sheltered place) or in its
final location in the ground?

The whip-and-tongue was quite hard - the second tongue
cut gave me the most trouble. After several tries I
ended up doing a cleft-graft on a couple of them,
that was a lot easier to get good matches. I think
my rootstocks are a little hefty; and so are the
scions which is my own fault, since I picked them out
myself.

And thanks to those to pointed out that I cut towards
myself. I had watched a few grafts done, but until
you try it yourself, you don't know what you need to
pay attention to.

Lisa in Ashland Oregon
USDA Zone 7 - Sunset Zone 7 - 1800'





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