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  • From: "loneroc" <loneroc@mwt.net>
  • To: <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>, "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Cc:
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Tom wrote:
  • Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 07:15:49 -0500

Another question for the wascally wabbit,

Where did you find the 'Fairfax' strawberries of which you speak so highly?

Steve Herje, Lone Rock, WI USDA zone 3
----- Original Message -----
From: "fuwa fuwa usagi" <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 10:39 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] Tom wrote:


> Tom wrote:
>
> I have a question for the fluffy bunny, regarding
> strawberries.
>
> I read your Pomona article regarding lifting the crowns and
> re-establishing them at the right height. Have you ever
> done this in the fall, or just in the spring?
>
> My reply:
>
> I have done both, in various manners over the years. Which is a way of
saying my methodology has evolved over time, and the initial way I attempted
this has evolved over a period of trail and error.
>
> Tom wrote:
>
> Is it too late to move some strawberries to a new location
> in this season, in preparation for next, using your
> technique?
>
> My reply:
>
> No sir, however I would chose a slightly different approach based on
various factors.
>
> Factors to consider:
>
> 1) The remaining length of your growing season, consider strawberries are
frost tolerant.
> 2) The amount of moisture in your soil, the chance of precipitation, or
your ability to irrigate.
> 3) Are you planning on mulching to protect your strawberries
> 4) The intensity of your fall sun
>
> Basically what you want to determine is if you should trim off the leaves
or not when you lift the plants (trim the roots though in any event). Here
are the issues:
>
> 1) the sun is usually far more intense in the fall then in the spring and
the crowns on strawberries seem to react negatively to a lot of strong
sunlight on them. It seems the leaves shade the crown or somehow dissipate
the heat with the end result that the crown seems to keep “moister” in the
presence of leaves. Which is to say you can alleviate the suspect problem
by frequent sprinkling or watering.
>
> 2) the leaves protect the crown in the winter. Ergo if you trim off the
leaves and they are not able to harden off properly you will lose the
insulation value of the leaves and the desiccation resistance that the
leaves provide to the all important crown.
>
> 3) mulching will mitigate the concern of the leaves hardening off properly
or desiccation of the crown.
>
> 4) falls can be brutal, at least where I am at. I had no need to irrigate
anything until now. We have not had rain in weeks and I found the need to
run the soaker hose on my fall bearing raspberries today. It is not
uncommon, where I am at, to go a good 4 weeks without significant
precipitation in the fall. So transplanting needs to be supplemented with
the ability to provide moisture in my area.
>
> In general you can reset your strawberries in the fall. Just take in
consideration the above factors when determining how much trimming you are
going to do. I would also suggest giving the roots a good soaking in
willow water or a ½ dilution of fish emulsion for an hour or two before
planting.
>
> All the best,
>
> the fluffy bunny
>
> P.S.
>
> Sorry for the delay in responding but the fluffy one has been engaging
squirrels in the battle for the peaches...LOL!!!
>
>
>
>
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  • [NAFEX] Tom wrote:, fuwa fuwa usagi, 09/15/2003
    • Re: [NAFEX] Tom wrote:, loneroc, 09/16/2003

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