Skip to Content.
Sympa Menu

nafex - [NAFEX] Question on Grafting

Subject: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

List archive

Chronological Thread  
  • From: Kevin Bradley <>
  • To:
  • Subject: [NAFEX] Question on Grafting
  • Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 07:33:43 -0500

You can still graft onto rootstocks that have come out of dormancy as long as the scions are still dormant. If the rootstocks have gone too long without any buds leafing out though it can lower your chances of success, in my experience, if I recall. If you whip and tongue grafted earlier you can do another whip and tongue graft lower on those that didn't take but it would be much better to use new rootstocks. You can also chip bud using dormant scions but my experience has been weak after- growth. I don't like re- grafting the same rootstocks in the same year, but I have done it with some success.
I have kept scions dormant at about 31 degrees up into June. (I have also frozen them and kept them into July. Freezing them is very risky though, you probably have to do it when they are in primary dormancy, in the late fall, and freeze them in a large amount of water with no contact with air or the sides of the container.)
As far as apple and pear and plum you can graft on dormant roots, apricots and peach actually do better if the rootstock has begun growth. You can even grow out some suckers from the peach and apricot rootstocks and whip graft them to your dormant scions, that is if you can keep your scions dormant that long. You should protect the new apricot and peach grafts with a plastic cover and slowly allow them to harden off once the grafts have taken. Pears and apples will callus at low temps from the high thirites and above, 50 degrees being ideal in my opinion. Apricots callus best in the upper fifties and plums in the seventies. Peaches alos I believe in the seventies and even eighties.
Good luck
Kevin B.

Archive powered by MHonArc 2.6.24.

Top of Page