Mounted search and rescue

[Rancho Calderon <ranch@tektrail.com>]

_Some thoughts on rope work and hobbles_

I guess there are many ways of getting a horse hobble-trained. This 
method I have learned from a vaquero trainer who uses a lot of the 
old-timer methods adapted to modern times (most modern horses aren't 
half-wild range horses anymore and don't require the same rough 
treatment). The following introduction to hobbles has worked for my 
horses (two initially flighty and shy Arabian mares - one of which had 
her first training at 6 years old and which really did not like people 
etc. a whole lot). They are now a pleasure to work with.

If you want to use hobbles in the back-county and on the trail, prepare 
your horse first at home in a large and safe arena with decent footing. 
Start with rope training (actually start with ground work and teach your 
horse respect and good ground manners but that is a whole thing in 
itself). You can get an old used lariat at a feed store for a few bucks. 
Desensitize your horse to using a rope (throw it out, coil it up, swing 
it on the side, over your head, his head etc.) around him on both sides 
(if he accepts rope work on one side, it does not mean he will like it 
on his other side). You must be able to touch him with your hands and 
your rope coil (without him moving away or getting scared) everywhere 
from head and ears to tail to toes. Then put the rope around one of his 
legs at a time (hold the ends with each of your hands, don't use a 
loop), pull on each one of his legs, pull up each leg one at a time, 
lead him by the rope slung around one of his legs forwards (front leg) 
and backwards (hind leg). Release the pressure if the horse spooks and 
start again but don't be afraid to offer some resistance and to pull. 
However, put only as much pressure on him as he can tolerate without 
getting really scared. This will take some time - sometimes a long time 
- depending on the horse's disposition. Better let go than risking an 
injured horse and/or person. Then start restraining the horse from being 
able to freely move his front legs with the rope (do not tie the legs 
together!). Again, release the pressure if the horse pulls too much and 
starts spooking. Then start again. Put only as much pressure on him as 
he can tolerate and then slowly increase the pressure. At all times you 
should have him on a lead rope (although eventually you should be able 
to lead your horse by his front or hind leg without even using a lead 
rope) and just take your time to let your horse figure it out on his own 
terms. Becoming impatient and taking short cuts will just mean taking 
the longer road to success.

Then you should be ready to put the hobbles on one front leg and then 
still use the rope on the other. Attach the rope on one leg to the 
hobble on the other leg but be ready to let go of the pressure if things 
gets testy. Eventually, the horse is ready to figure the hobbles out for 
himself without throwing a fit and injuring himself. Now you can put the 
hobbles on both legs (having some feed on the ground might be helpful). 
The hobbles should be far enough apart to allow the horse standing in a 
natural manner without pulling his front feet together (there are many 
hobbles that are too short ... also use padded and/or leather hobbles to 
avoid burning the skin).

If your horse hobbles safely at home, you can try hobbling your horse in 
the backcountry. However, hobbles do not prevent a horse from running 
fast if spooked or from leaving the camp for better forage ... so don't 
expect your hobbled horse to be in your camp site when you wake up the 
next morning.


I think rope and hobble training is good for any horse as it 
desensitizes them. Chances are much better with a rope- and 
hobble-trained horse that he will just stand still when getting caught 
in wire etc. on the trail or pasture and wait for you to free him while 
the untrained horse might shred himself to pieces. The same is true for 
a host of other potentially bad situations in which horses could get 
restrained in their movement. They will instinctually fight restraints 
because it robs them from their best chance of survival which is running 
away from danger. Therefore, in my opinion it pays in the long run to 
take some time and patience to reduce this fear.

Just my 2 cents and I am sure there are other good ways to go about this 
type of training. Please share your ideas. Sabine, LCVFD, Jemez, NM