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  • From: "sue roseman" <swissy AT socket.net>
  • To: <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [Market-farming] Vibrating hand seeder
  • Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 17:53:58 -0600

What vibrating hand seeder did you get??? I have heard so many don't work that I would love one that did!
Thanks
Sue zone 5
----- Original Message ----- From: <market-farming-request AT lists.ibiblio.org>
To: <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 11:05 AM
Subject: Market-farming Digest, Vol 97, Issue 34


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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Market-farming Digest, Vol 97, Issue 33 (sora AT coldreams.com)
2. vibrating seeder thanks (Leslie Moyer)
3. Greenhouse Heating (John Shong)
4. growing baby carrots (Jen and Derek Campbell)
5. Re: growing baby carrots (John Ehrlich)
6. plastic (Clifford Farm)
7. Re: growing baby carrots (William H Shoemaker)
8. Re: Greenhouse Heating (sunnfarm AT netscape.com)
9. Gro Mor Wand Seeder (Darren Young)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 11:46:57 -0800
From: sora AT coldreams.com
To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Market-farming Digest, Vol 97, Issue 33
Message-ID:
<0bbdce8e2962af5be23645eb5ab60c50.squirrel AT mail.coldreams.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1



At some markets, however, it may make a difference.

Our market moved so fast that even walking the 1 block to the nearest ATM
meant alot of stuff was sold out (our stand included) by the time the
person
got back. So it can make a difference.

\Same at my market....I take local checks and I know whenever I do they
buy more than they would have if dealing with cash, if nothing else
because it leaves them with more cash for the other vendors. I think
adding the advantage of a debit card could make a huge difference. And
for those of you who think only young people use plastic....I'm in my 60's
and use my debit card almost exclusively instead of checks.
Sora



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 23:56:46 -0600
From: Leslie Moyer <unschooler AT lrec.org>
To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] vibrating seeder thanks
Message-ID: <92D587E4-167A-47F0-B561-E3174E03C574 AT lrec.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Thanks to everyone who recommended the vibrating hand seeder last year!! I bought one and have used it for all of my seeding this spring and it has gone SO much faster than seeding everything by hand like I did last year. I have carpal tunnel syndrome and arthritis and I've seeded a lot more flats than I did last year and am still pain-free. I still have a LOT to go--I'm biting off way more than I can chew this year, I think--but it's going so quickly that I don't expect to have any problems. I wasn't even involved in that conversation--I just listened in. But it was very helpful information for me and I wanted to let you know!

--Leslie / Oklahoma




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 08:55:25 -0600
From: "John Shong" <johnshong AT centurytel.net>
To: <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] Greenhouse Heating
Message-ID: <60698111F3364D24A95B24C72401FE0A@HP>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

I think that sand wet enough to be a better conductor ... (?if it would do
so?) ... would provide an environment (humidity) in which disease / algae
problems would arise.

I wish I had a record of where this info was found ... sorry but no luck
looking.

I did a search ... typed just as follows: sand and in and floor and heat.
Scrolled down the list ... think there might be some stuff that could answer
some of your questions or lead you in the right direction.

John


Could you not wet the sand? I would think wet sand would be a lot
better as a heat conductor than dry sant



On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 9:27 AM, John Shong <johnshong AT centurytel.net>
wrote:
Re the use of sand for infloor systems.
If that is your best/only option ... it may be workable.
Did lot of research several years ago when I was installing mine.
I did mine the "conventional" way.
Re using sand: They did plastic first ... then insulation ... then the
sand
... but if my memory is correct they used a lot more sand than you ...
seems
like it was 18".
A few hours reseach on the internet should provide some insight.
Sorry dont have any links saved from back when I did this.
John
Fern Creek Gardens





------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 11:27:08 -0400
From: Jen and Derek Campbell <jenanddereksfarm AT gmail.com>
To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] growing baby carrots
Message-ID:
<AANLkTikGrRP7PNgFBEoezDUa63NhCmttecOYWPuM-+oF AT mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi everyone,

I have been approached by a local grower wanting me to grow baby carrots for
her for the restaurant business. She figures she would need around
300-500lb/week. I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with growing
baby carrots. I'm wondering about what an average yield/100ft row would be,
also planting dates to ensure a continuous harvest all season? Any
suggestions on varieties? I'm thinking Napoli and Yaya. Thanks in advance.

Jen, in PEI



--
Jen and Derek Campbell
1805 Route 13
Brookvale PE
C0A 1Y0
902-658-2148
JenAndDereksFarm AT gmail.com
http://farmfreshveggies.blogspot.com/
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:37:34 -0800
From: John Ehrlich <johnkaty AT shaw.ca>
To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] growing baby carrots
Message-ID: <F4D79C6E-F24F-4FD7-8140-F89A5D627F72 AT shaw.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

That is alot of carrots per week and you better find out how much they are willing to pay, because once you ve figured out your costs the margin on carrots is not so good unless you really know what you are doing and....

I'd like to hear other's thoughts

J
alderleafarm.com


On 2011-02-16, at 7:27 AM, Jen and Derek Campbell wrote:

Hi everyone,

I have been approached by a local grower wanting me to grow baby carrots for her for the restaurant business. She figures she would need around 300-500lb/week. I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with growing baby carrots. I'm wondering about what an average yield/100ft row would be, also planting dates to ensure a continuous harvest all season? Any suggestions on varieties? I'm thinking Napoli and Yaya. Thanks in advance.

Jen, in PEI



--
Jen and Derek Campbell
1805 Route 13
Brookvale PE
C0A 1Y0
902-658-2148
JenAndDereksFarm AT gmail.com
http://farmfreshveggies.blogspot.com/
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 08:46:12 -0700
From: "Clifford Farm" <cliffordfarm AT aol.com>
To: "Market Farming" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] plastic
Message-ID: <499872799DEF425FAFB4F0F5B14ACB71@OfficePC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello All,

Does anyone have a good source for hoop house plastic?

thanks in advance,
julie clifford
clifford family farm
provo utah
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:55:48 -0600
From: "William H Shoemaker" <wshoemak AT illinois.edu>
To: "'Market Farming'" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] growing baby carrots
Message-ID: <A1493C58AD344E5BA0768C16157D384B@STCHARLES>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Another cultivar you might want to consider is Bolero. You want a cultivar
that grows quickly and doesn't get too long. I think Bolero tastes good too.
Its only drawback is that there are other varieties with slightly better
color, but I think its color is good enough. Baby carrots won't yield as
much as fully grown carrots, but you should be able to get around 1.5 lb of
topped carrots/foot of row, maybe more if you grow intensively.



I know the wholesale industry grows regular carrots, chops and shapes them
to make the "baby carrots", but no reason why you can't grow the genuine
article. How you choose to grow them depends on the situation you're in
(climate, soil, market, etc.), but I thought I'd share my approach to
growing carrots.



I like to make raised beds as early in the season as possible. Mine are
about 16" across at the top and about 8" deep when shaped. A couple of rains
and they're ready for planting. I have a silt loam soil with about 3.5% OM
so unless the soil turns up awfully lumpy, I don't need to do too much soil
prep. Once the beds have settled I begin planting with a Planet Junior. I
use a scatter shoe, which creates a band about 2" wide and set it about 3/8"
deep. I plant two rows about 12" apart, then lay drip tape down the middle
of the bed. The two rows are about 3" from each side of the bed. I really
watch moisture carefully to make sure the bed doesn't dry out. I want the
seeds to germinate uniformly and have moist soil for the taproot, which
moves down quickly. The bed is loose, so the tap root goes down nice and
straight. The moisture facilitates this straight movement. Because the seeds
were in a band, the seedlings have room to grow next to each other without
too much competition, at least early. Carrots grow by sending down the
taproot, growing some leaves, then beginning to fill out the taproots.
Healthy plants with good moisture will fill out nicely, and if the taproots
were straight, they fill out uniformly. The raised beds and drip tape are
important keys to getting straight roots, and the scatter shoe spaces seed
nicely so you get more good roots per foot of row. Another reason the raised
bed is important is that as the roots begin to thicken, the sides of the bed
actually "flex" just a bit, allowing the roots to fill out nicely and stay
tender. In different soils it might not work as well, but I suspect it
would.



Good luck with your account.



Bill

William H. Shoemaker

Sr. Research Specialist, Food Crops

University of Illinois - Crop Sciences

St Charles Horticulture Research Center

535 Randall Road, St Charles, IL, 60174

630-584-7254, FAX-584-4610

wshoemak AT illinois.edu




I have been approached by a local grower wanting me to grow baby carrots for
her for the restaurant business. She figures she would need around
300-500lb/week. I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with growing
baby carrots. I'm wondering about what an average yield/100ft row would be,
also planting dates to ensure a continuous harvest all season? Any
suggestions on varieties? I'm thinking Napoli and Yaya. Thanks in advance.

Jen, in PEI




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 08:55:34 -0800
From: <sunnfarm AT netscape.com>
To: "John Shong" <johnshong AT centurytel.net>, "Market Farming"
<market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Greenhouse Heating
Message-ID: <20110216085534.F468F9D1 AT resin16.mta.everyone.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

You might have seen work done in the late 1980's in NJ through Rutgers University. It was the first time I saw hot water bottom heating in a hoophouse in Vineland NJ. They used deep sand over heating tubes as a media to grow what would become bare root transplants for the field. The sand made it easy to pull plants without harming the roots. Plants went directly into the field within minutes after pulling... Bob.
Sunny Meadow Farm
Bridgeton, NJ.

--- johnshong AT centurytel.net wrote:

From: "John Shong" <johnshong AT centurytel.net>
To: <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] Greenhouse Heating
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 08:55:25 -0600

I think that sand wet enough to be a better conductor ... (?if it would do
so?) ... would provide an environment (humidity) in which disease / algae
problems would arise.

I wish I had a record of where this info was found ... sorry but no luck
looking.

I did a search ... typed just as follows: sand and in and floor and heat.
Scrolled down the list ... think there might be some stuff that could answer
some of your questions or lead you in the right direction.

John


Could you not wet the sand? I would think wet sand would be a lot
better as a heat conductor than dry sant



On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 9:27 AM, John Shong <johnshong AT centurytel.net>
wrote:
Re the use of sand for infloor systems.
If that is your best/only option ... it may be workable.
Did lot of research several years ago when I was installing mine.
I did mine the "conventional" way.
Re using sand: They did plastic first ... then insulation ... then the
sand
... but if my memory is correct they used a lot more sand than you ...
seems
like it was 18".
A few hours reseach on the internet should provide some insight.
Sorry dont have any links saved from back when I did this.
John
Fern Creek Gardens



_______________________________________________
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Market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
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Market Farming List Archives may be found here:
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Unsubscribe from the list here (you will need to login in with your email
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_____________________________________________________________
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 11:05:33 -0600
From: Darren Young <darren AT thegardenspace.com>
To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [Market-farming] Gro Mor Wand Seeder
Message-ID:
<AANLkTimgQe9eY5TVhUvDFzOoP9ShwyjNtMsQz06qRKm6 AT mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I purchased a Gro Mor wand seeder at the beginning of this month. I bought
the one that has the shop vac attachment and came with a 288pt want. I also
purchased an additional 128pt wand at the same time which saved me like $10
on that wand. Total cost with 2 day shipping was around $383. The president,
Tom, is who handled the order and he was a pleasure to deal with. I emailed
him on a Sunday asking how to order and he emailed me back that day with a
phone # to call. I wanted the unit that week to start using it, however he
was heading to the New England Grows show that Tuesday. I asked to have it
shipped second day and he got it out that Monday. Unfortunately, that was
the Tuesday we were hit with 23" of snow and Chicago essentially shut down.
I emailed him later that week, he gave me a tracking number and apologized
for the delay, but with the weather that week I could understand. The unit
arrived that Friday.

The instructions are quite clear on how to connect and use it and includes
examples of which tip to use for various types of seeds.

So far it has been a good investment, the only problematic seeds I've had
are pelleted Begonia, but in fact, they're a pain no matter what. I sowed
288 trays of pelleted Pansies at 6-8 trays per hour. This is compared to
around 2-3 per hour by hand. I was previously paying someone to sow trays
using their automated machine at $8.50 per tray. Labor cost is now around $2
per tray.

All in all it should pay for itself this season.
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End of Market-farming Digest, Vol 97, Issue 34
**********************************************






  • [Market-farming] Vibrating hand seeder, sue roseman, 02/16/2011

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