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  • From: "Rob Wallbridge" <rob AT songberry.ca>
  • To: "'Market Farming'" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Market-farming] re. Mulching with large rectangular bales
  • Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2010 14:12:44 -0500

Hi Jay,

With large round bales you can unroll them a layer at a time, for a long,
continuous layer of mulch. Big squares you'll have to take apart flake by
flake and place them one at time in a checkerboard pattern. Any place that
edges meet will provide opportunities for weeds to push through (and easy
spots for you to transplant into). Given the choice, big rounds will be
faster and easier to lay out and give better coverage. If you're planning on
transplanting through the mulch, find yourself a sharp, narrow tool for the
job -- I'd recommend a heavy broccoli or lettuce knife over a regular garden
trowel, but others may have better suggestions.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob Wallbridge
Songberry Organic Farm
email: rob AT songberry.ca
web: www.songberry.ca
facebook: "Songberry Organic Farm"
twitter: @songberryfarm

-----Original Message-----
From: market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jay Atkerson
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2010 2:00 PM
To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [Market-farming] re. Mulching with large rectangular bales

>
> This season I tried using straw bales that were 8 feet long with 3
> feet x 3
> feet "flakes" to mulch strawberries for winter. I usually only use
> the
> small bales but was offered some large to use so gave them a shot.
> The ones
> I used were not difficult to break into the flakes, but were packed so
> tightly that it was really hard to fluff them and spread by hand


Which is easier to break apart...a large round bale or a large
rectangular bale? I'm not interested in fluffing since I just want a
heavy cover of a garden area I don't intend to roto-till but want to
try no-till in preparation of planting beans, squash, corn tomatoes
and cucumbers. Spring planting is often delayed (South-central
Kentucky - zone 6B) due to excessive moisture and I'm planning to pull
the mulch back, set transplants and pull the mulch back around the
transplant. Rows will be much closer and will not be cultivated--
don't want to kill earthworms nor expose soil to sun. I anticipate
the soil to warm much slower but this may be a trade-off to no-till.
I had good success this past season with a heavy mulch around
indeterminate tomatoes having to irrigate very infrequently in a
prolonged drouth.

Jay

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