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  • From: Steve Diver <steved AT ncat.org>
  • To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Market-farming] Re: Between Blueberries?
  • Date: Thu, 06 May 2004 19:03:04 -0500

You were talking about forages and cover crops to establish
in row middles -- the alleyways -- for blueberries in Kentucky.
The cover crops that are listed as options for orchards in
Kentucky and surrounding states will provide forage species,
seeding rates, and time optimum time of establishment.

When it boils down to it, you are probably looking at
orchard grass or fescue.... obtaining common fescue seed from
the local farmers cooperative instead of super expensive
turf-type fescue.
Perennial ryegrass is an awesome living mulch, but the
seed cost is super.

Bluegrass might be the equivalent, perennial grass living mulch that
does a good job.... for Kentucky.

Of the clovers, white clover is a perennial and withstands repeated
mowing. Most of the other clovers are seasonal.

On the other hand, bee pollination is critical for blueberies, so you may
want to avoid clovers, as a primary sod, so the bees don't preferentially
visit clover instead of blueberry flowers.

If you don't do anything, you will get plenty of resident vegetation
which you can simply mow and maintain. I know orchardists who feel
that resident vegetation will comprise the most appropriate species.

Avoid bermudagrass, as it creeps into organic mulches and
becomes a monster problem.

Frankly, for non-chemical weed control I suggest a weed barrier
for blueberry patches. I base this observation on success, and failure.

To avoid weed creep at the edge of living mulch and organic
mulch, consider using a flame weeder and/or acetic acid herbicides.

25% acetic acid herbicides give roughly 50-80% kill on grassy weeds
at first application, and upwards of 80-95% kill on second
application. They kill broadleaves real good.
Steve Diver











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