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market-farming - Re: Early blight on tomatos

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Chronological Thread  
  • From: Robert Farr - The Chile Man <rbfarr AT erols.com>
  • To: market farming <market-farming AT franklin.oit.unc.edu>
  • Subject: Re: Early blight on tomatos
  • Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 16:39:55 -0400


Cheri:

From my web site (www.chileman.com - nearly done!):

Early Blight

Cause: The fungus tends to infect peppers mostly during wet springs,
and is the most troublesome of foliar diseases. The fungus is
overwintered on crop debris and infected seed. Secondary spread of the
fungus is chiefly by wind-blown spores and, to a lesser extent, by
chewing insects.

Symptoms: Symptoms first appear on lower, older leaves as circular,
dark-brown to black spots that often form concentric rings, giving a
“target” effect. However, the progress of the fungus is stopped by the
veins of the leaf. As the disease progresses, leaves turn yellow,
wither, and drop off. In severe cases, most of the foliage is lost by
mid-season. Diseased plants tend to be leafless over the bottom
one-half. Although the disease is more of a problem on leaves, it can
occur as a collar rot, stem canker, or fruit spot. Collar rot is
characterized by a large brown, slightly sunken irregular lesion on the
stem of seedlings and transplants, at or slightly above the ground
level. Fruit infection occurs frequently at the stem end or in growth
cracks or wounds in green or ripe fruit. Fruit spots are usually dark,
sunken and leathery. Infected fruit may drop prematurely from the
vines.

Control: Practice proper crop rotation. Growing a crop in the same
area for several years leads to disease problems – not only for
peppers, but for just about any crop. Immediately destroy all infected
crops. We’ve had some success (in a previous location) spraying fixed
copper fungicide. But as copper is barely tolerated in an organic
garden, due to its persistent presence in soil tests, copper should be
used as a last resort. (Compost tea is another option. See the entry
for compost tea, below). Proper farm management – including fall debris
clean-up – is the best course of action.

Compost Tea

Treats foliar diseases such as leaf spots, blights, damping-off, gray
mold, downy and powdery mildew, and apple scab. Compost tea also works
as an effective innoculant to restore or enhance soil microflora. Mix
one part manure-based compost to five parts water. Stir, steep for one
week at 59 – 68 degrees, and strain (through cheesecloth or another
similar medium; alternatively, one can start by putting the compost in a
burlap sack, thereby eliminating or reducing the need to strain). Spray
as needed. In areas where left spots or blights are common problems,
watering the foliage with compost tea is reported to have preventative
effects.

Urtica Dioica (Stinging Nettle)

Treats damping-off and other fungal diseases. Take a 5 gallon pail and
fill it 2/3 full of nettles. Add water at 100 degrees F and steep for 3
weeks. Spray seedlings and soil surface. If you don’t have fresh
nettles, try using dried.

--
Robert Farr
The Chile Man: ALL Natural Hot Sauce
(540) 668-7160
www.chileman.com
(that's "chile" with an "e")






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