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[machinist] Roll-In Journeyman and similar auto feed table bandsaws - fixturing

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  • From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
  • To: machinist@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [machinist] Roll-In Journeyman and similar auto feed table bandsaws - fixturing
  • Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2014 15:37:01 -0500
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/roll-journeyman-similar-auto-feed-table-bandsaws-fixturing-279122/
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  1. 01-27-2014, 03:00 AM #1
    BadDog is offline Stainless
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    Default Roll-In Journeyman and similar auto feed table bandsaws - fixturing

    I recently bought a nice older Roll-In Journeyman band saw. This is the big 20" x 12" saw with an auto feed table. While it is in very good shape, not looking it's age at all, all the fixturing hardware is missing. Extrapolating from some pictures (very few to find!) I figured out a nice upgrade (IMO) to the original tool-free "fence" used to hold material against the blade for auto feed without being in the way when you need full access to the table. I've also got a simple plan for the "angle plate" (aka protractor) using OEM mounts. So minimal basics are covered.

    But I've got to believe there are good solutions for things like clamping the material securely down to the table and other such things. The backing/driving fence I created also provides a "T" for mounting potential outrigger supports, and I also figure on a tool-free slide on clamp base for it. Plan is to use the over arm clamp from my big Rigid sliding miter saw, which should give good reach and good clamp potential. But there seems to be no factory hold down solution that I can find, and nothing regarding shop built rigs for various things.

    So my question is, for auto feed tables like this, what have other come up with to increase the functionality? So far I've used only the factory mounting points, but I'm not averse to adding some tapped holes or other modifications to improve usability.

    Also, the only "bad" part is that the saw was used quite a lot for cutting curves (apparently). So the table slot is a bit jiggered along the edges from resulting blade wander without proper support. I could easily make a 1/4" (or so) top plate from something like cast aluminum fixture plate, and that might be good enough since you generally don't slide things on this table. But it seems hokey, and presents a problem with the new surface plane being off rotation axis for the table tilt. Any suggestions there?
  2. 01-27-2014, 03:11 AM #2
    Heavey Metal is online now Titanium
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    Need some infeed v blocks and some out feed also if you intend to do much round work.

    120* included with chain clamps.
  3. 01-28-2014, 12:52 PM #3
    BadDog is offline Stainless
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    Thanks, great idea.

    To create the feed wall/fence I added a "T" rail that the fence flips over and locks into. The plan is to also make an extension to lock onto the rail and support outboard on moderate long lengths of structural material. Likewise it can be used to mount some v-blocks as you suggest, as well as some sort of quick clamp.
  4. 01-28-2014, 02:09 PM #4
    digger doug is offline Titanium
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    I really don't see the need for any "v" blocks.

    The roll-in table is the one side of the "v", the fence is the other side.

    Chewed up kerf in table from wandering blades seems to be S.O.P. with every one
    I've ever seen. I threatend to remove the table, mill in some pockets, and place
    in some inserts there, but never did.
  5. 01-28-2014, 02:19 PM #5
    Barry Weeks is online now Stainless
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    I lay out some lines both parallel and perpendicular to the blade travel, maybe 2" or so (whatever looks good) apart. At each intersection drill and tap a 3/8-16 hole or whatever trips your trigger. Now you can clamp down flat plates to be sawed, angle plates, stops, etc. wherever you want. Scribe your lines deep so you can use them to visually line up your plate or whatever to the blade travel.


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