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  • From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
  • To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] compost tea
  • Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 09:16:17 -0700


I like that term "benefit-to-effort ratio ". I may be very sure of certain
methods, but everybody has to do what works where they are. In my view it's
wiser not to argue with what works ;-)

paul tradingpost@lobo.net

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 1/29/2010 at 9:25 AM Emery Mitchamore wrote:

>I quit compost tea simply because of the time and labor, and I know
>that's a big issue for you, as well. Thanks to the conversations on this
>list, the only digging I do is (minimum), holes to plant stuff. I now put
>a light sprinkle of organic fertilizer, followed by compost and organic
>matter of all sorts on the surface around plants. That's it. I may not
>get optimized production, but the benefit-to-effort ratio is much improved.
>
>On Jan 29, 2010, at 8:40 AM, Tradingpost wrote:
>
>>
>> Ed, Bobby G.'s method sounds ok (Wisconsin soil there must be very
>different from mine), tho for myself I have questions about the leachate
>content of soluble salts. I also want the manure and/or plant fiber to go
>into the soil rather than just what will dissolve out into the water, to
>build up the level of organic matter and retain moisture better. And for a
>larger garden or market garden it may be more practical to work it all
>into the bed to begin with. Since other amendments need to be worked in as
>well, it's better for me to do it all at one time. Moisture, warmth, and
>mulch then provide the conditions for the right kind of microbes to break
>down and combine all the materials in the soil in a natural way.
>>
>> The amendments vary depending on the grower, soil, climate, etc. We have
>thin topsoil with little or no organic matter content, so I amend
>accordingly. The horse manure I use is aged, pulverized and screened to
>break down faster, and alfalfa meal provides the nitrogen to aid in manure
>decomposition, and trace minerals. Both add organic matter (fiber).
>Usually I'll add in a little rock phosphate or bone meal and greensand.
>It's all mixed in a wheelbarrow, half full for a 3'x8' bed, spread evenly
>on beds, and worked in twice with a shovel instead of a tiller. There's no
>waste since it all goes into framed beds instead of the aisles we walk on.
>Same with water and mulch, nothing wasted on aisles.
>>
>> paul tradingpost@lobo.net
>>
>> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>> On 1/28/2010 at 11:52 PM henry walden wrote:
>>
>>> This is great, it sounds really effective, simple, and economical. How
>>> much manure are you using, roughly 5 shovels full or so? Steer or horse
>or
>>> other compost? I suppose any compost would be useful. Especially the
>fact
>>> that a 55 gallon drum covers 1000 feet that's a bunch, how often, etc. ?
>>>
>>> Ed
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------[ Received Mail Content ]----------
>>> Subject : Re: [Livingontheland] compost tea
>>> Date : Sat, 23 Jan 2010 13:50:38 -0800 (PST)
>>>> From : Bobby G <bobbyg53211@yahoo.com>
>>> To : livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On Thu, 1/21/10, livingontheland-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>>>
>>> re: Compost tea
>>>
>>> For what it's worth, I do use the compost tea. It's oxygenated the
>entire
>>> time by virtue of being circulated through a cheap sump-pump and back
>into
>>> the 55-gallon barrel. There's so many bubbles in there, I don't know
>what
>>> else you could do to aerate it.
>>>
>>> The compost is held in a burlap bag inside the 55 gallon drum.
>Otherwise,
>>> you plug up the sump pump. I suppose you could use what they call a
>"trash
>>> pump" for dirty sump water, but I just used a conventional pump.
>>>
>>> Once you're done aerating it (some ppl recommend 24 full hours, but I
>just
>>> do it for half a day) then you can apply at a rate of 55 gallons does
>>> about 1,000 row feet MOL. Use a regular garden hose fitting, brass.
>>>
>>> I had good results on everything I applied the tea on.
>>>
>>> Just my 2 cents.
>>>
>>> Bobby G
>>> Central Wisc. USA
>>>






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