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  • From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
  • To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Livingontheland] Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds’
  • Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 23:04:13 -0600


Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds’ Spring Planting Festival showcases Ozark Mountain
hospitality, crafts, old-world germplasm and one of the country’s youngest,
and most successful, seedsmen.
http://www.rodaleinstitute.org/20080509/nf1
By Dan Sullivan

If you ever have to travel by car from Springfield to Ava in Missouri, you’d
best be advised not to follow Mapquest. Especially in the dark. Unless you
like roller coasters.

Ava is home to just about every fast-food restaurant under the Ozark Mountain
sun and a Super 8 Motel that appears to be the accommodation of choice for
farmers, gardeners, artisans and performers migrating from as far away as
Australia to an annual garden show a few miles down the road in Mansfield.
Well, not quite Mansfield. Bakersville.

You won’t find this Bakersville on in the Rand McNally Road Atlas, though.
The Bakersville Pioneer Village—which favors the movie set of an old Western
with its mercantile store, jail, apothecary and other such period
accoutrements—is another idea sprung forth into the physical realm like an
emerging seedling from the fertile imagination of Jeremiath “Jere” Gettle.
Jere was home schooled, and obsessed with unusual varieties of vegetables and
fruits since he could first turn the pages of colorful garden catalogs and
point and coo over the images. Just 27, Jere Gettle has built Baker Creek
Heirloom Seeds into what is fast becoming one of the most successful seed
businesses still in private hands.

While Gettle scours the planet seeking out, making commercially available and
essentially preserving old-time, mostly open-pollinated varieties of produce,
herbs and flowers, most of the seed industry is going in the other direction.
With the purchase of Seminis for $1 billion in 2005, St. Louis based Monsanto
is now the largest seed company in the world. Hybrid varieties with
broad-spectrum survivability have become favorites of the corporate seed
business, with heirlooms varieties—many of them holding strong regional
adaptability to fighting pests, diseases and particular climates—largely
falling to the wayside.

But Jere Gettle, with his parents as his mentors, has always marched to his
own particular drummer. Difficult to categorize and fiercely independent, Jim
and Debbie Gettle met and married in Klamath Falls, Oregon, moving eastward
first to eastern Oregon then to Idaho then to Montana and finally to Missouri
in search of affordable farmland, friendly home-schooling laws, reasonable
taxes and good people. Jere was 12 when the family arrived at their new Ozark
Mountain home.


Jim and Debbie Gettle, middle and at at right, listen as another Spring
Planting Festival attendee shares a story. While they've enjoyed watching
their son's success, they've built a home just over the nearby Gasconade
River to also enjoy the quiet life that suits them best.

“I’ve pretty much always been a hardscrabble farmer,” Jim Gettle says from
his perch on a hay bale near one of three performance stages, his own voice
backdropped by gospel harmonies. “I tried some of the other stuff, but I
couldn’t stand it.” Currently Jim Gettle grazes cattle on lush bottomland at
the Lick Fork of the Gasconade River and watches with amazement and amusement
as his son’s seed business grows and grows.

“We’ve always believed in making our kids go on their own,” the elder Gettle
says. “We’ve seen too much given to kids…and it makes nothin’ out of ‘em.”’

What Jere and his sibling—a sister now back in Montana raising a family 2
miles from any neighbor—were given was plenty of room to explore.

“When he was a little guy we gave him his own plot and let him plant what he
wanted in it,” the elder Gettle says, recalling lemon squashes, yellow pear
tomatoes and other visually appealing produce. “You don’t know what’s going
on in a kid’s mind.”

Neighbor David Kaiser, who settled in the area just about the same time as
the Gettles—and whose 21-year-old son Andrew now helps Jere run the seed
business and manage festivals—offers some insight.

“I remember Jere asking me if I wanted to walk down and see his garden and I
said ‘sure.’ This was before I knew he was a non-traditional kid, and I
thought I was going to see a regular garden with red tomatoes and such, and
here it is all full of all these different colors and shapes and tastes.”

Kaiser recalls Jere unfolding his intentions to save seeds, package them up
and sell them through the mail in a catalog like the ones that had so
enthralled him as a toddler.

“I’m thinking ‘well that might be a nice hobby,’ but I just didn’t see the
business in it. Even down the line I’ve had these thoughts—and I didn’t want
to throw cold water. But Jere proved me wrong and he proved a lot of other
folks wrong.”
Bakersville

It’s Day One of the two-day Spring Planting Festival—the first of a pair of
farming and gardening, handicraft and old-time music extravaganzas held at
Baker Creek during the growing season—and I’ve made the mistake of getting a
bit of a late start. This time Mapquest’s advice is reasonable, but I’m
unprepared for the mile-long line of cars creeping at a snail’s pace just
past where the pavement ends. About 45 minutes later I see what holdup is:
Southern hospitality. One of the 30 to 40 locals Jere Gettle employs during
the busy season (December to April) is stopping each individual car,
extending a personal and deliberate greeting and offering parking
instructions. Sometimes a conversation ensues. It’s “hillbilly time,” and
these gentle and friendly folk pride themselves on not being in a hurry.

Jere, Sasha and Emilee Gettle take a breather toward the end of Day 1 of the
Spring Planting Festival, which in 2008 brought a record crowd of about 6,000
to Bakersville Pioneer Village.


Up the road a piece but closing the distance between us ambles the lithe
frame of Gene Autry? Roy Rodgers? No, that would be Jere Gettle, decked out
in signature vintage Western wear, bright yellow (with brown accents) from
head to toe. With 6,000 attendees on the first day, this is the biggest
festival to date, and Jere offers his greeter some advice on managing the
influx of traffic.

Bakersville consists of Jim and Debbie Gettle’s original home—with some
modest improvements—the seed store Jere was encouraged to build when his
business began to take over the house, a mercantile (where one can purchase
some spiffy duds to go along with the pioneer theme, among an assortment of
other curious items) an adjacent and well-stocked apothecary, a beautiful
post-and-beam barn adorned with an impressive collection of antique tools,
performance stages and other various outbuildings, each harkening back to an
era when heirlooms ruled the world.

>From the colorful, quirky characters—both guests and hosts—wandering around
>the place to the graffiti-like artwork and humorous signage in the
>bathrooms, the whole place is a swirling amalgam of 21st century avant-garde
>entrepreneur meets Old Wild West.

It’s no coincidence that Branson and the Silver Dollar City amusement park
are so close by and share a little bit of that Ozark Mountain kitsch (on this
particular day, Jere is even employing a handful of Silver Dollar City
entertainers to help work the crowd—one of them doing double duty hawking his
farm products). But Bakersville has something more to offer that is not all
glitter and gold.

Business is booming here at a time when the world is seeing an unprecedented
renaissance in local and organic agriculture, and waking up to the fact that
real food security just might begin in one’s own back yard.

“People are getting tired of all that plastic and tin and they want to go
back to where there’s some meaning in life, at least I think so,” Jim Gettle
offers, surveying the festival frenzy around him. “And that’s what you’re
seeing here.”
Ma & Pa Gettle

Jere and Emilee Gettle’s paths first crossed a few years back when, as part
of her parents’ ministry outreach, Emilee interviewed Jere for an online
story she was writing about home-schooling families starting their own
businesses. The couple and the two families discovered they held much in
common so began spending time together, and Jere and Emilee eventually tied
the knot. On May 5, 2008, their 7-month-old daughter, Sasha, got her first
wide-eyed glimpse of Bakersville at full tilt.

And while Jim and Debbie Gettle have watched the festivals take off like
forgotten zucchini over the years, they are still sort of shaking their heads.

“We’re quiet people,” Jere’s mother explains in a whisper screaming with
irony as she surveys the menagerie of activity swirling around her. (Jere’s
parents recently gave over their original homestead to the young couple,
building a home out of recycled lumber across the river, where the pace is a
little more to their temperament.)


"He’d wake me up at four in the morning to haul him to Springfield to the
small-animal swap meet,” Jim Gettle recalls of son Jere's first foray into
commerce. “He got to be quite...I don’t know what you'd call it...He would
get in there with the old boys and wrangle.” While Jere has been a vegetarian
for nearly 15 years and now only deals in seeds (and a few sidelines related
to educating the public), he's still as successful a salesman as ever. The
painted wooden sign above represents one of his earliest attempts at
advertising.

The first Baker Creek Heirloom Seed catalog went to press in 1998 featuring
70 varieties. Now, with Debbie Gettle’s colorful renderings still gracing the
covers, more than 1,200 varieties are offered to about 90,000 catalog
subscribers, online customers and anyone who visits the store.

“It’s definitely kept us busy and seems to be growing every year,” Jere
Gettle says by phone a few days after the spring festival. “This year kind of
surprised us, the growth and the level of interest. We never know quite what
to expect.

“The first year or two was kind of the biggest surprise, that people would
come out here,” the man in yellow recalls of the daylong midsummer festival
that drew about 400 visitors in 2000. “The next year we decided to have a
spring festival. We had about 700 people, and from there they just started
growing.”

And this is far from suburbia. The boonies, you might say. So what’s the big
attraction?
More natural, more local, more gardens

“I think that in the past few years people have become more and more
interested in natural foods, getting back into gardening and organic and
local food and all that,” Jere Gettle offers, becoming quite modest when
asked to reflect on his business’s positive impact on the local and greater
farming and gardening community.

"I imagine it does in different ways. It brings a lot of people into the area
and into the restaurants and hotels…We’re trying to get people to grow more
of their own food, that’s our main focus. We get kids coming here who hardly
know what a rooster is anymore, or a turkey or a duck or a goat.”

Besides the two-day festivals held in May and in August, Bakersville hosts a
First Sunday event, which, Jere explains just a few days after the spring
festival wraps up, “is basically kind of a mini version of what we had this
last week.”

The idea behind all of these events, he says, is to not only educate about
and help preserve heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables, but to do the
same for the old-time skills and arts and crafts of the region.

A few heirloom breeds of livestock were on display and available for purchase
as picture-perfect weather graced the first of two festivals held each year
at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds near Mansfield, Missouri.


Besides employing a large number of people locally, Baker Creek sources its
huge complement of seed mainly from smaller growers around the country. “Just
basically people we’ve run across through the years,” Jere Gettle explains.
“A lot of times it’s market gardeners who want to supplement their income,
maybe a Mennonite farmer who’s wife has a small side business or a retired
couple looking for a little extra income.”

With business growing as much as it has, Jere Gettle says his own 2-acre
garden has been given over largely to trials over production. “I still raise
some [seed] every year, but not too much. The first year in a couple-of-acre
garden I could grow all my own seed.” He can’t quite manage that anymore, he
says.

Clients are still largely home gardeners and smaller market gardeners farming
part-time, he says, adding that some seed is made available in bulk on a
case-by-case basis.

“We try to work with farmers as much as we can.” Gettle says. “Some of these
farmers are wanting this seed so bad they are buying 100 or 200 individual
packets because they want to be able to offer the varieties at their stands.”

Given his background, it’s no surprise that Jere Gettle remains wary of the
federal Certified Organic program. He says he’s still considering the
possibility of offering some certified-organic seed selections in the future
but is leery of corporate influence over the organic label. For now he’s
content with the fact that organic growers who want to carry his selections
may do so if they are either: 1) small enough, or 2) can prove that they
can’t find an existing certified-organic source for the varieties he carries,
which is often the case.

“We don’t really have any rhyme or reason for what we decide to carry. If it
sounds interesting, we’ll give it a try and see how it does. We’re collecting
and preserving as much as we can each year and trying to get things out to
people that they never tried before—maybe a melon from Mexico, something
that’s neat and good but that nobody’s ever been able to try.

“We pretty much try to get anything that’s old and rare and unique,” says
Jere Gettle as he—save for the age reference—perfectly describes himself.

Dan Sullivan is senior editor at the Rodale Institute.




  • [Livingontheland] Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds’, Tradingpost, 05/09/2008

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