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  • From: Zachary Domikez <zdomike@yahoo.com>
  • To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Livingontheland] Beware enterprises requiring new jig saws
  • Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:01:22 -0800 (PST)

I am writing in response to Norma's mail about tires,
and Terry's question about Linseed oil. I think wood
in contact with soil is a short-sighted use of
material. I was disappointed in linseed oil thirty
years ago. I have done enough project that are now
probably crumbs; henceforth I want to build for
eternity - with free rubber.

I have years of success with tires for raised beds,
and have explored the www for the negatives aspects of
using tires. While there are major concerns with road
tire dust (which is chemically available in great
quantities in road run-off) the remaining tire is
quite stable.

In my wet climate, the raised beds need sidewalls to
retain the erosion and also help dry out the soil.
The tire cup shape can retain some trapped water,
which I find helpful for the dry summers.

I do not agree with the Noble.org suggestions that I
have read at <http://www.noble.org/Index.html>
or to paraphrase Paul "Beware enterprises requiring
jig saws" . . . since a hack saw works as well.

Rather than go to all the trouble to stretch the
treads, and use rusting stakes, I use the whole tire,
minus a sidewall, which I call a CUP.

This sidewall can be cut out with a cardboard razor
knife (box cutter.) Use whitewash to paint the inside
of the tire cups to assure a low pH, which will reduce
any soil acid washing heavy metals out of the rubber.

Scrape and reserve topsoil to make levelled ground at
the site of your raised bed, then link together a
dozen pairs of cups with screws. Finish using strips
of tire treads to attach rubber sides to fill out the
rectangle of the two dozen cups. Those are best
stretched by your strong (left) hand while your smart
(right) hand grapples with the electric screwdriver
with magnetic tip.

Since passenger car tires average 26 inch diameter,
you have a 24 foot by 4 foot raised bed using a dozen
pairs of tire cups. It is more elegant if you can
match the sizes of the tire diameters. The open tread
strips are less critical, so the odd sizes can be cut
for strips.

Use that reserved topsoil to fill the cups, and you
can use the enclosed volume as a compost bin if you
have a season to let it settle. Build the soil using
agricultural lime, to keep the pH relatively high -
this probably means that tires should NOT be used for
acid loving plants like blueberries and strawberries.


If you like this system, you might want to grab the
tires while they are not yet used to burn for fuel!

Regards,
Zachary

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 12:57:15 -0700
From: "TradingPostPaul" <tradingpost@riseup.net>
Subject: Gardens that Last for Years - Raised
Bed Gardens, a Technique that Works

I'd agree, sides aren't usually required. Let me add
the only reason I use lumber sides is I can't dig down
enough without digging impervious subsoil,
so I have to build up and need sides to hold the soil
and mulch in place.
Also my ground is sloping and level framed beds avoid
erosion. Once done they're done and succeeding years
are sooo easy. Another factor is our climate which is
drier than most. Framed beds do contain the irrigation
water better than beds without sides.


Ken Hargesheimer wrote:

>I have had a copy of the info from OK for several
years.
>
> I used boards [salvaged] for my first beds in 1982.
When they rotted, I >decided to not use sides of any
kind. That is what I recommend but if one >wants to
use sides, that is fine. They are not worth the time
and
>trouble to me.
>
> Ken H
>



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