Healthy soil and sustainable growing

["Greg and April" <gregandapril@earthlink.net>]

Paul, I'll have to get back to you on that.

Last summer, I spent quite a bit of time building fairly large list of plant 
species ( 50+? including several that probably are not normally considered 
at first glance ) that might work for such a situation, unfortunately it's 
on my lap top, and my kids busted the display last spring.    My intent was 
to get as wide a variety as possible, so one " mix " could be used in a 
variety of climates, even taking advantage of microclimes in a large field, 
or years where the fields might be wetter or warmer than normal.    All the 
plants were selected for a useful product/purpose, with a eye towards long 
term sustainability - once planted / established they would last several 
years through reseeding, resprouting, or the like.

One of the reasons I liked the look of alfalfa, is the fact that it's roots 
go very deep, and tap resources that many plants can't normally touch. 
There are plenty of legumes that might be able to replace alfalfa, to one 
extent or another.


Greg H.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
To: <livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 11:02
Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] A No Till Question for Larger Fields


> VERY interesting, Greg. This business of interplanting cover crops and
> trees can get a bit complicated (we posted some info and sources on cover
> crops last month, for those who just joined). Exactly which of the crops
> named there may vary with climate. It's doubtful I'd get good results with
> alfalfa here for example, and I'm not willing to push my luck with our
> well. Surprisingly, local extension agents may have some good info on 
> cover
> crops for different localities (I don't often recommend extension agents).
> Rotations, cover crops and catch crops have been pushed by USDA etc. for
> decades, but way too many farmers want to cut corners and leave fields 
> bare
> between cash crops.  I see it all the time. We've been watching one field
> near us that was left bare after the last corn or bean crop was harvested.
> With the five-month drought here we go by that place and see that poor 
> corn
> only two feet high. They won't get enough sweet corn to pay for the seed.
> Cover crops pay.
>
> paul, tradingpost@riseup.net
> ---------------
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********
>
> On 7/19/2006 at 9:56 AM Greg and April wrote:
>
> > A thought might be to plant vetch very thickly.    Crown Vetch, and more
> > so
> > Hairy Vetch has a reputation for being a sun lover and smothering weeds,
> as
> > long as they get enough water.    It can take a few years to get
> > established, but, once established, it grow fairly fast when conditions
> are
> > right, and will spread by underground stolens - it's a slow spreader, that
> > is why you should plant thickly.
> >
> > A companion plant for the vetch, would be red clover or perhaps alfalfa if
> > there is enough water.    Between the Johnson grass, clover ( or alfalfa
> ),
> > and the vetch, you could end up with some very nice pasture.
> >
> > Chicken tractor or pig tractor, will gain you meat, and they will scratch
> > and root up every last bit of Johnson grass if you work it right.
> >
> > My preference ( depending on the water situation ) would probably be to
> > block of the field into smaller areas for a rotational system.    Mow
> short
> > in the fall then inter plant, vetch and a legume ( clover or alfalfa ) and
> > perhaps buckwheat, very early in the spring ( late winter if the
> conditions
> > are right, before the grass has a chance to start to grow ), don't forget
> > to
> > inoculate everything.
> >
> > After one full year of growth, interplant chicory, mandrels ( fodder
> > beets ), and other forbs, once they have started to grow, rotate cattle (
> > low numbers ), the next year hogs ( to pig tractor ), the next year put in
>
> > vegetables, that fall plant rye or other quick grower and the fallowing
> > spring chicken tractor.    Then start over replant to grass, buckwheat,
> > vetch, ect...    This would put it on a 6-7 year rotation.
> >
> > Strips protected by fence so they will not ever be ever be touched other
> > than what grows through/pass the fence, and plant forage trees like honey
> > locust, mulberries, paw-paws, persimmon and willow on the strips inside
> > the
> > fence.    Any fruit not picked will provide more food for the animals,
> > while
> > the leaves and stems of the willow that make it over will be eaten
> > directly,
> > and all the trees will provide wind and some sun shelter for the animals
> > once grown.
> >
> > Greg H.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Terry Boyne" <>
> > To: <livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 11:20
> > Subject: Re: [Livingontheland] A No Till Question for Larger Fields
> >
> >
> > > "How large are the fields and what is the climate?
> > >
> > > I have an idea, but, it may or may not be in your budget."
> > >
> > > Greg H.
> > >
> > >
> > > Greg,
> > >
> > > The fields would be in sizes of 5 to 20 acres and are located in NE
> > > Oklahoma.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Terry
>
>
>
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