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Subject: Four-layer sheet mulch, The Overstory quotation
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:42:58 -0800
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Lee Flier was the most vocal proponent of mulching in years past---some of
the rest of us tagged along because a mulched garden is a lazy man's
garden---gets rid of plowing and the never-ending fight with weeds, and
makes a garden resistant to drought.  Doesn't eliminate the necessity for
water, but sure reduces both the acre-inch and frequency requirement, so
irrigation is less of a necessity.

Haven't ever looked at the archives, so don't know if any of Lee's stuff got
in them.  On the assumption it didn't, here is a quotation from The
Overstory---something you should subscribe to if you haven't.

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Overstory #96 - Sheet Mulch: Greater Plant and Soil Health with Less Work

by Craig R. Elevitch and Kim M. Wilkinson

Contents:

: INTRODUCTION
: BENEFITS OF SHEET MULCH
: BASIC TECHNIQUES OF SHEET MULCHING
: STEPS FOR APPLYING SHEET MULCH
: SHEET MULCH AROUND TREES
: CAUTIONS/CONSIDERATIONS
: THE ONGOING PROCESS
: REFERENCES
: ORIGINAL SOURCE
: ABOUT THE AUTHORS
: WEB LINKS
: RELATED EDITIONS OF THE OVERSTORY
: PUBLISHER NOTES

As you have probably noticed, The Overstory covers a wide variety of topics
related to trees, their cultivation and conservation. This edition presents
a simple but highly effective technique for protecting and enhancing soil
called, "sheet mulching." We believe this subject is so valuable for
practitioners that we are publishing a revised and more detailed account of
the mulch technique first introduced in The Overstory #1.


::::::::::::::

INTRODUCTION

Mulch is a layer of decaying organic matter on the ground. Mulch occurs
naturally in forests; it is a nutrient rich, moisture absorbent bed of
decaying forest leaves, twigs and branches, teeming with fungal, microbial
and insect life. Natural mulch stores the nutrients contained in organic
matter and slowly makes these nutrients available to plants. Mulch also
protects soil from desiccation by the sun and wind, as well as from the
erosive effects of rain and run-off.

Mulch forms a necessary link in nutrient cycling vital for our soils. When
mulch is absent for whatever reason, the living soil is robbed of its
natural nutrient stores, becomes leached and often desiccates. Natural
terrestrial environments without a litter layer are usually deserts.
Non-desert plants grown in bare soil require constant fertilization,
nutrient additions, and water, not to mention the work required to keep the
soil bare.

"Sheet mulch" is a four-layered mulch system for use around crops. The four
layers (or "sheets") mimic the litter layer of a forest floor, and optimize
the weed control and fertility benefits of mulch. The sheet mulch technique
described here is for use with trees or in gardens. The techniques can also
be adapted for landscaping and other agricultural uses. Sheet mulch is a
simple and underutilized technique protecting soil, reducing weed
competition, and restoring fertility.


BENEFITS OF SHEET MULCH

* Improves nutrient and water retention in the soil
* Encourages favorable soil microbial activity and worms
* Suppresses weed growth and competition around crops
* Reduces labor and maintenance costs as compared to bare soil culture
* Provides crops with organic matter and nutrients
* Improves plants vigor and health, often leading to improved resistance to
pests and diseases
* Enhances soil structure


BASIC TECHNIQUES OF SHEET MULCHING

Once you get the hang of it, sheet mulching can be used almost anywhere. It
may be used either in establishing a new garden or tree planting, or to
enrich existing plantings. Below is described sheet mulching to cover an
area such as a garden on a small scale, then, how to sheet mulch around a
tree. In both cases, mulch is applied to bare soil or on top of cut weeds.
New plantings are planted through the mulch, or a small area is left open
to accommodate established plants and trees.

The benefits of mulching justify putting the energy into doing the job
right, using ample materials. Collect all of the materials (as outlined
below), and complete the mulching process in one session. A reduction in
maintenance and increase in plant vigor will more than pay off the initial
effort.

Sheet mulch is put down in four layers to mimic natural forest mulch: well
decayed compost, weed barrier, partly decayed compost and raw organic
matter, as described below.


STEPS FOR APPLYING SHEET MULCH

Step 1: Prepare site

To prepare the site, knock down tall weeds and woody plants with a scythe,
brush cutter, or by trampling the existing vegetation so that it lies flat.
A poultry or pig tractor system (Overstory #50, see link below) is an
excellent method of site preparation. There is no need to remove
vegetation, unless it is woody or bulky. It fact the organic matter left
now will decay and add nutrients to the soil. Once vegetation in the area
is flattened proceed to lay down the sheet mulch.

Step 2: Add concentrated compost and mineral amendments (Layer #1)

Whether you are mulching bare soil or weeds, "jump start" microbial
activity by adding high nutrient material which stimulates soil life. This
material also accelerates the decay of weeds and grass under the mulch.
Suitable materials are enriched compost, poultry or stock manure, worm
castings, feather meal or similar at the rate of about 2.2 kg/m2 (50
lbs/100 ft2). If the soil is overly acid, which is common in disturbed
soils or those treated with conventional fertilizers, add lime. A soil
analysis will indicate the need for adjustment of pH or mineral amendments.
This is the appropriate time to add the recommended doses of minerals such
as phosphorous and potassium.

Step 3: Water well

Now, soak the area well with water. This is essential as it starts the
natural process of decomposition. Also it is much easier to soak the ground
now, before the remaining layers of mulch are applied.

Step 4: Apply a weed barrier (Layer #2)

Most cultivated areas harbor untold numbers of weed seeds. There are also
weed seeds blown by wind, animals and people. Soil borne seeds are lying
dormant and waiting for sunlight, moisture and space to sprout. Simply
pulling or killing growing weeds will not erase the weed problem: more
seeds will sprout almost as soon as the soil is exposed to moisture and
light. Therefore the next step in mulching is to put down an organic weed
barrier. This barrier prevents the germination and eventual emergence of
weeds through your mulch.

Underneath this weed barrier grasses and weeds die and quickly become food
for earthworms. The worms turn and aerate the soil.

Of the four sheet mulch layers, the weed barrier has no natural counterpart
on the forest floor. In the forest, weeds do not sprout because there is
"no room for them," which simply means a lack of space above and below the
ground, and a lack of light. By planting an area properly, there will
eventually be no room for weeds. The weed barrier is needed only for
establishment of the mulch, and disappears with time. If your area is
planted appropriately, weeds will not emerge after the decomposition of the
weed barrier.

Materials for the weed barrier that work well are: cardboard, 4 - 6 sheets
of newspaper, burlap bags, old carpets of natural fiber, worn-out clothing,
gypsum board, or any other similar biodegradable materials. Banana or other
large leaves also work if laid down in several layers. Overlap the pieces
of the material so as to completely cover the ground without any breaks,
except where there are plants you want to save. Around these leave a
generous opening for air circulation around the root crown. Care in laying
down the weed barrier without gaps will save you the headache of emerging
weeds later on.

Both water and good air circulation are necessary for healthy soil.
Although the weed barrier forms a physical and light barrier, it is
essential that is be permeable to water and air. Overlapped pieces of
organic material as recommended above let water and air slowly permeate
between and through them. If the weed barrier is applied too thickly, the
soil can become anaerobic. Also, for the same reasons plastic mulches are
not recommended for most situations.

Step 5: The Compost Layer (Layer #3)

This layer is on top of the weed barrier--it must be weed seed free. Well
conditioned compost, grass clippings, seaweed or leaves are ideal materials
to spread over the weed barrier. Any weed-free material mixture at the
right moisture level for a good compost will do. This should form a fairly
dense layer about 8 cm (3 inches) thick.

Step 6: The Top Layer (Layer #4)

The top dressing mimics the newly fallen organic matter of the forest. It
also must be weed-seed free. Good materials for this layer include leaves,
twigs and small branches, hay, straw, fern or palm fronds, coffee chaff,
macadamia nut shells, chipped tree prunings, sawdust, bark, coir, bagasse,
etc. The top layer will slowly decompose into lower layers, and therefore
must be replaced periodically; it represents reserves of compost. This
layer should be about 8 - 13 cm (3 - 5 inches) deep. Many materials
suitable for the top layer often have a pleasant cosmetic appearance. For
this reason, there should be no hesitation in using sheet mulch in all
cultivation from landscaping to gardening to permanent orchard crops. In
fact, as you use mulch, bare soil will begin to seem ugly and undesirable.

When the soil is amended and sheet mulch applied properly, there will never
be a need to turn the soil. Earthworms do the tilling. The only task left
is to keep the soil covered by replenishing the mulch.


SHEET MULCH AROUND TREES

Planting trees with mulch assures optimal conditions for survival and early
growth. The method is a specialized version of the steps above. Use locally
available materials, and adapt this method to your situation. If you are
unsure about the benefits of mulch, apply mulch to some trees and not to
others planted at the same time. Usually the difference in growth and vigor
is amazing.

1. Prepare the planting area and plant the tree the way you usually do.

2. Amend soil around tree out to a radius of 0.5 - 1 meter (1.5 - 3 feet)
with a light layer of nitrogen fertilizer, such as chicken manure, and
other mineral amendments if necessary. Water well. (If you are mulching an
established tree, be sure to amend out to the edge of the crown of the
tree, also called, "the drip line.")

3. Spread a permeable weed barrier around the tree in a ring shape, leaving
a gap of 15 cm (6 inches) diameter around the trunk of the tree for air
circulation. Make certain there are no gaps in the barrier through which
weeds can emerge. If you are using loose materials such as paper that might
blow away, water the weed barrier layer now.

4. Spread compost and/or mulch about 15 cm (6 inches) thick over the weed
barrier, again making sure it is several centimeters away from the stem of
the plant for good air circulation.

5. Leave a generous gap in the mulch around plants to allow for air
circulation. Otherwise, the mulch can lead to rot on the plant stem.


CAUTIONS/CONSIDERATIONS

In most cases (with exception of the last point below), the benefits of
sheet mulching outweigh the costs. However, be sure to watch out for these
potential problems and be prepared to handle them if they arise.

* Slugs and snails are particularly fond of mulch. Especially during the
dry season, slugs will be attracted to mulch. This can be a threat to
certain small tree seedlings and many garden plants.

* Poultry such as chickens, turkeys, Guinea fowl and more love to scratch
in mulch. This may be a problem in certain situations, although usually not
much more of a problem than without mulch.

* Rodents can find a cozy home in mulch. Certain rodents such as rats and
voles can readily debark certain trees.

* Pigs love good, moist soils which harbor worms, and will grub out sheet
mulch if they have access to it. Do not use sheet mulch if pigs have access
to the area; they will be attracted to it and will destroy both your work
and your plantings.


THE ONGOING PROCESS

Once a mulch is established, the soil is covered and weed-free. With time,
the mulch materials will decay and begin disappearing into the soil from
the bottom up. The rate decay will be fast during the hot and wet season,
and slow during dry or cool periods. As in a natural forest, the mulch must
be replaced or soon the mulch will disappear and the soil will once again
see the sun and the weeds will take over. As long as organic materials are
added to the surface of the mulch, there is no need to lay down the weed
barrier layer after the first time. From time to time mineral amendments of
phosphorous and calcium can be added to the mulch. However, for the most
part maintaining sheet mulch requires only replenishing the top layer
(Layer #4) with materials such as leaves, trimmings, husks, etc.

It is best to design a garden or orchard mulch system to produce its own
top layer mulch in sufficient amounts. To make mulching as efficient and
easy as possible, use mulch materials which are readily available. With
good planning, mulching of gardens and orchards can become a regular part
of maintenance plant prunings (roughly chopped), animal bedding, etc.
Eventually, other
tasks such as watering, fertilization and weeding will be reduced. The
overall maintenance burden in mulched conditions, when efficiently using
materials on hand, can be less than in conventional systems (which may use
frequent tillage or applications of herbicide).

There are many ways to produce sufficient mulch at your site. Grass
clippings, for example, represent nutrient rich mulch material. Deep
rooted, vigorous growing plants that readily regrow after hard pruning can
be cut 3-6 times per year to provide mulch. For example, several nitrogen
fixing trees will produce copious amounts of green matter. Each should be
evaluated for its appropriateness for a specific site before planting. Many
other plants produce large amounts of organic matter including various
trees and bunch grasses (e.g. vetiver or lemon grass). Also, many water
plants such as water hyacinth and kelp are good mulch materials. Because
fast growing, vigorous plants are desirable for mulch production, when
selecting plants for this purpose extreme caution should be taken to avoid
introducing weedy species.

Sheet mulching as described here seeks to recreate the organic mulch layer
of the forest with a minimum of effort from people. Properly planned, a
garden or orchard system will produce its own raw mulch in sufficient
amounts and people are involved only in putting this material back onto the
ground where it belongs.


::::::::::::::
REFERENCES

Curry, M. 1996. Sheet Mulch Now! In: The Permaculture Activist, issue No.
34-A, August 1996.

Hemenway, T. 2001. Gaia's Garden: a guide to home-scale permaculture.
Chelsea Green Publishing Company, White River Junction, Vermont, USA.

Mollison, B. 1990. Permaculture: A Practical Guide for a Sustainable
Future, Island Press, Washington, DC.

Stout, R. 1998. Gardening without Work: For the Aging, the Busy, and the
Indolent. Lyons Press.


::::::::::::::
ORIGINAL SOURCE

Elevitch, C.R. and K.M. Wilkinson. 1998. Sheet Mulching: Greater Plant and
Soil Health for Less Work. Permanent Agriculture Resources, Holualoa, HI.
Web site: http://www.agroforester.com/articles/Sheet_Mulching.html.


::::::::::::::
ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Craig R. Elevitch is an Agroforestry Specialist with both public and
private sector experience in tropical agroforest and forest management. He
has a Master's degree in Electrical Engineering (Dynamical Systems) from
Cornell University. He has conducted numerous agroforestry research
projects and species trials in cooperation with organizations including the
USDA Sustainable Agriculture Research and Extension, Cornell University,
and the University of Hawaii. Craig is founding editor of The Overstory and
co-author of Agroforestry Guides for Pacific Islands. Contact him at: P.O.
Box 428, Holualoa, Hawaii 96725 USA; E-mail: craig AT agroforestry.net.

Kim M. Wilkinson is a reforestation professional and a freelance writer.
She has B.A. degrees in Anthropology and Ecology from Emory University, and
is a Certified Permaculture Consultant and Master Gardener. She lives on
and manages an organic agroforestry project on the Island of Hawaii.
Through her nursery, Future Forests, she grows many thousands of tree
seedlings annually for people planting agroforests and reforestation
projects. She is co-author of Agroforestry Guides for Pacific Islands, as
well as editor for The Overstory. Contact her at: P.O. Box 575, Holualoa,
Hawaii 96725 USA; E-mail: kim AT agroforestry.net.


::::::::::::::
WEB LINKS

Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization's (ECHO's), "Thick Mulch for
No-till Gardens": http://echonet.org/tropicalag/aztext/azch5dry.htm#Thic

How to Sheet mulch - a very good introduction particularly for temperate
areas: http://www.wildwords.com/Bombus/page22.html

US Department of Agriculture Natural Resource Conservation Service's
Backyard Mulching: http://www.nhq.nrcs.usda.gov/CCS/Mulching.html

Frequently Asked Questions about Mulch:
http://www.deatech.com/globalance/forestg2.htm#MulchGarden


::::::::::::::
RELATED EDITIONS OF THE OVERSTORY

The Overstory #78--Reforestation of Degraded Lands
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory78.html>
The Overstory #70--Rhizosphere
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory70.html>
The Overstory #66--Carbon Sequestration: Storing Carbon in Soils and
Vegetation
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory66.html>
The Overstory #50--Animal Tractors
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory50.html>
The Overstory #29--Tropical Green Manures/Cover Crops
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory29.html>
The Overstory #28--Microlife
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory28.html>
The Overstory #22--Pioneering Difficult Sites
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory22.html>
The Overstory #20--Five Fertility Principles
<http://www.agroforester.com/overstory/overstory20.html>


::::::::::::::
PUBLISHER NOTES

Publisher: Permanent Agriculture Resources, P.O. Box 428, Holualoa, HI
96725 USA; Tel: 808-324-4427; Fax: 808-324-4129; E-mail:
<par AT agroforestry.net>; Web site: <http://www.agroforestry.net>

Editors: Craig R. Elevitch and Kim M. Wilkinson

Past editions of The Overstory: <http://www.overstory.org>

This publication is Copyright 2002 Permanent Agriculture Resources.  All
rights reserved worldwide. For conditions of use please send an e-mail to
<par AT agroforestry.net> or write to Permanent Agriculture Resources at the
address above.

This newsletter is designed to provide agricultural information, but is
sent with the understanding that the editors and publishers are not engaged
in rendering consultation. If expert assistance is required, the services
of a professional should be sought.

::::::::::::::
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