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  • From: Michael Pilarski <friendsofthetrees@yahoo.com>
  • To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [permaculture] Keyline plowing techniques
  • Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 23:29:50 -0700 (PDT)

Hi Neil,

My understanding of the keyline system is that you do it for 3 or 4 years
running to achieve the desired result, going a bit deeper with the plow each
time.  It takes time to deepen the soil.  In tough ground you are only able
to go deeper incrementally. The timing is important. 

Yeoman emphacized doing the keyline plowing right after intensive grazing or
mowing.  That might not be as important a factor as doing it at the right
soil moisture levels.  Too dry and it is hard to penetrate the soil.  Too wet
and the tractor can bog down.  Generally, me understanding is that you do
keyline plowing at similar soil moisture levels as for most soil tillage.

I don't have the practical experience to answer your other questions, but
hope this helps. 

We are certainly hoping you can come up to the Inland Northwest Permaculture
Conference on November 4-6 to talk about keyline.

Michael Pilarski

Michael Pilarski

--- On Thu, 9/8/11, Neil Bertrando <neilbertrando@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Neil Bertrando <neilbertrando@gmail.com>
Subject: [permaculture] Keyline plowing techniques
To: "permaculture" <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
Date: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 10:48 PM

Hi all,

We're implementing a restoration project for mule deer (Odocoileus
hemionus) habitat
on US forest service land and using a yeomans' plow with keyline pattern
cultivation as part of our erosion control and water management strategy.
Hot-cold desert climate where irrigated pasture has been taken out of
production and invasive weeds are moving in.  using an SB-6 frame with 3
tines

some quick technique questions and comments re: keyline pattern cultivation:

1. On moderately steep slopes (in the 5:1 to 8:1 range)  we've noticed the
plow has uneven penetration along it's long axis due to the tilt of the
tractor and 3 pt. assembly relative to the ground.  This seems unavoidable,
so we are trying to average about a 6 inch plowing depth and getting about
3-4 inches on the uphill tine and 8-10 on the downhill one.  Is there a more
effective approach on moderately steep slopes?

2. the tractor we're using has a float control on the 3 pt. hydraulics,
which the driver is using to protect his equipment.  this sometimes causes
the plow to lift up when encountering rocks or tight soil.  Is this a common
situation?  Should we disable the float control?  I'm not even sure if he
can. If so, we're likely to spend a lot more time replacing sheer pins;
however, my understanding is that we want to plow at a constant depth to
achieve the water spreading effects.

3. We found it ineffective to use coulter wheels in rocky soils even if
there is a sod-like thatch or mat on the surface.  Of course we figured this
out after one coulter wheel sheered nearly in half.  We've decided to accept
a little sod turnover and uplift in return for not destroying coulters. (we
also found this to be true with the weed knife attachments, but managed to
remove them before breaking any).  Suggestions re: rocky soils?

One aspect of the Keyline pattern cultivation strategy which I'm interested
in learning more about relates to timing of plowing, effects of 1 year vs. 3
consecutive years of treatment, and the relationship between crop (or
vegetation) management and soil renovation.

This line of inquiry has led me to questions such as
How important is mowing/grazing and timing of this event?  How does this
vary with climates (along the brittleness scale?)?
Is 1 plowing even effective? Again is this climate dependent?
What are the thresholds for effective treatment and what are some indicators
to monitor with respect to these thresholds?

Any thoughts, discussions, suggestions, and experiential anecdotes are
welcome.

I can provide more specific details if necessary and upon request.

thanks,
Neil
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