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  • From: "Lawrence F. London, Jr." <venaurafarm@bellsouth.net>
  • To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [permaculture] More thoughts on double digging while preparing raised garden beds. (revised post)
  • Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:58:39 -0500

permascience
June 08, 2008
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugFd1JdFaE0

"Emilia Hazelip (1938 - February 1, 2003) was an organic Permaculture gardener who was born in Spain and began gardening seriously in the late '60s. A former Merry Prankster and pioneer of the concept of synergistic gardening, her farming methods were inspired by the work of Masanobu Fukuoka.

Where Fukuoka focused most of his attention on orchards and the rice/barley crop rotation, Emilia Hazelip focused on creating and maintaining market gardens of vegetables and herbs.

Emilia Hazelip, who introduced the concept of permaculture to France over a decade ago, drew on many sources as she continued to develop gardens. The work of Permaculturist Marc Bonfils with self-fertile cereal production and the microbiological research of Alan Smith and Elaine Ingham are frequently mentioned.

To see more videos by the maker of this film and for contact information on how to purchase a high quality full length version (SVHS) on DVD please visit: http://www.youtube.com/user/BULLEBOULO

For More Information on the Global Permaculture Movement Please Visit:
http://www.permacultureplanet.com";

==

That is the way to build a raised bed though there are important details (the ones the devil is in) that need to be considered, many based on soil type, access to water, climate and lay of the land.
She is exactly right about the dimensions of the bed in the design she recommends except that one needs the ditch (a very narrow path) between the beds _to extend below grade 25% to 40% of the total bed height_ thus extending the actual working height of the beds considerably. You provide extra aeration for the part of the bed below grade that is exposed to the ditch between the beds. The other dimensions she suggests are perfect, 4 feet wide (measured approximately
across the bed exactly at existing grade level. This bed width can be modified according to the height of the gardener(s) so that they will be able to do any work needed, leaning over to reach the middle, but not having to put their foot on the bed to keep from falling forward, which would induce compaction in those places (and that is a real issue with your prized, hard-won, mature, permanent beds). The 20 inches between beds (measured at existing grade as shown in the diagram) is ideal. Of course you put all weeds removed from the garden into this ditch to conserve water, create a walking path protecting the soil underneath from compaction and as they decompose they provide beneficial microorganisms and nutrients (compost tea) to leach into the garden soil for added tilth and fertility, food for soil dwelling creatures and particulate matter for them to use in constructing their habitat; soil colloid and soil crumb structure are keywords in this instance.




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