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  • From: Udan Farm <udanfarm@yahoo.com>
  • To: permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [permaculture] here we go again-non-accredited teachers?
  • Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 14:00:12 -0800 (PST)

Hey everyone,I am just wondering how the rule of only teaching if you have a
PDC holds true if someone is teaching a small continuing ed course at a
college. I heard someone mention someplace in Calif. the other week (this was
a minor) and just today, found a college in the midwest offering a continuing
ed class... wondered if that's still the case-seems like it would be.
Isabel



>From udanfarm@yahoo.com Mon Dec 21 17:34:22 2009
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 14:34:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Udan Farm <udanfarm@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [permaculture] here we go again-non-accredited teachers?
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This was their very quick reply..."Our understanding is that an informational
overview about what PermaCulture is may be included in noncredit workshops.
There is no certification granted from the class, nor are any credit hours or
professional development units awarded. "
Does anyone know if this is true or not?

Isabel


--- On Mon, 12/21/09, Udan Farm <udanfarm@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Udan Farm <udanfarm@yahoo.com>
Subject: here we go again-non-accredited teachers?
To: permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org
Date: Monday, December 21, 2009, 5:00 PM

Hey everyone,I am just wondering how the rule of only teaching if you have a
PDC holds true if someone is teaching a small continuing ed course at a
college. I heard someone mention someplace in Calif. the other week (this was
a minor) and just today, found a college in the midwest offering a continuing
ed class... wondered if that's still the case-seems like it would be.
Isabel








>From venaurafarm@bellsouth.net Mon Dec 21 19:08:11 2009
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Subject: [permaculture] More thoughts on double digging while preparing
raised garden beds.
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From an email to Tripp:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugFd1JdFaE0

That is the way to build a raised bed through there are important
details (the ones the devil is in) that need to be considered, many
based on soil type and climate and lay of the land.
She is exactly right about the dimensions of the bed design she
recommends except that one needs the ditch (not really a path) between
the beds needs _to extend below grade 25% to 40% of the total bed
height_ thus actually extending the actual working height of the beds
considerably - you see, you provide extra aeration of the part of the
bed below grade that is exposed to the ditch between the beds. The other
dimensions she suggests are perfect, 4 feet wide (measured approximately
across the bed exactly at existing grade level. This bed width can be
modified according to the height of the gardener(s) using the beds so
that they will be able to do any work needed in the bed, leaning over
to reach the middle but not having to put their foot on the bed to keep
from falling forward. The 20 inches between beds (measured at existing
grade as shown in th diagram) is ideal. Of course you put all weeds
removed from the garden into this ditch to conserve water, create a
walking path protecting the soil underneath from compaction and, as they
decompose, provide nutrients and beneficial microorganisms to leach into
the garden soil for added tilth and fertility, food for soil dwelling
creatures and particulate matter to use in constructing their habitat;
soil colloid and soil crumb structure are keywords in this instance.




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