permaculture

[Mark <mpludwig@facstaff.wisc.edu>]

At 12:33 AM 8/30/02 -0400, you wrote:
> Good day:)
> In a message dated 8/29/02 2:12:56 PM, mpludwig@facstaff.wisc.edu writes:
>
> << The wrong fertilizers are problematic. >>
>
> Lord, there are so many formulations etc. Yet local Southern Staes etc. may
> only carry certain kinds. So you may noy have a lot of options.
>
> Nonetheless,what fertilizers/brand or compositions are you speaking about.
> What should we avoid.
>
> For instance many locals seem to like to use triple 19. Is that OK, or do we
> need to know about fillers etc. to make best choice.
>
> What kinds/brands do we PC types need to avoid?
>
> Thanks. Frank
>
> __

Rather than natter on too much I'll refer folks to
www.midwesternbioag.com
Folks I used to work for BTW.
Basically they follow the basic William Albrect model, higher Ca and P than 
many others recommend.
As for what to avoid, the biggest thing to watch is high salt index 
fertilizers, which is often closely associated with rapid 
availability.  This is tricky because (in the US at least) fertilizer is 
sold with it's guaranteed analyses based on soluble nutrients.  Rock 
phosphate will generally be listed as 0-3-0, while triple super phosphate 
is 0-54-0.  Both contain lots of P, but the triple seems the better deal 
when in fact it is not.  In a healthy soil  the rock phosphate will yield a 
steady diet of P over time and give similar value without the "shock" of 
super available P (Much of the P in triple will bond well to most soils, 
it's probably not the best example...)

A few other tips
the K in commercial fertilizer is usually potassium chloride.  This has a 
very high salt index due to the chloride (pretty much anything with 
"chloride" should be used sparingly.  Try to get Potassium sulfate or green 
sand.  Sulfates are also excellent carriers for trace minerals, much more 
available than oxide forms.

Commercial N comes in many forms, most very available and easy to burn 
soils with.  If you can't get enough from legumes, compost etc.  I would 
use ammonium sulfate.  This is a slower release N than any other commercial 
types.  It and other sulfates like gypsum can be very helpful in improving 
the structure of tight clay (a very interesting topic in itself), 
especially alkaline clays.  If you find yourself needing N and only have 
access to urea or even anhydrous ammonia you can lessen the damage these 
materials do by applying them in a solution with water (sometimes sold as 
"liquid 28%").  This at least takes the initial shock of having all the 
free water tied up suddenly hydrating the ammonia.  Water and anhydrous 
react pretty vigorously, precede with caution when devising a mixing system.

Frank, my guess is that you may have a hard time finding many of these 
better materials at reasonable prices.  If it was me and a soil test showed 
a pressing need for something I'd apply half the dose recommended by the 
locals and carefully observe the results.  Maybe you should become a bio ag 
consultant...


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Mark P. Ludwig
Poultry Research Lab
University of Wisconsin -Madison
608-262-1730 WK
608-846-7125 HM