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  • From: Vicki Garland <blissv@nmhu.campus.mci.net>
  • To: permaculture-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
  • Subject: Re: flea beetles..
  • Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 20:34:01 -0600 (MDT)

Thank you, Bob! How, though, do I get the little guys off the plants long
enough to get row covers on the plants without sealing the beetles in?
Haven't figured that part out yet. I will try the dusting ashes and bone
meal solution. A neighbor here told me about the ashes routine. Such a
mystery why one plant can be infested and the one next to it is clean. Must
be natural selection. And mysterious, too, why suddenly, the mizuna had no
more insects. I suspect at a certain point in the develpement, the
tenderness or flavor must change and becomes less than inviting to them.
Thanks again1
Vicki


At 06:59 PM 6/24/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Flea beetles are a common problem here in Houston on thin stemmed quick
>maturing members of the cabbage family. They are primarily a problem when the
>temperatures warm in spring, but sometimes in late fall before cool nights.
>If you need to grow these crops during warmer spring weather, do the
>following: make sure you don't plant where you did last year (or any other
>cabbage family), then cover newly planted bed with row cover and seal edges
>with boards, rebar, dirt. Remove cover only to weed or thin. Here, flea
>beetles are mainly a problem in March April. In shade after heat hits, flea
>beetles aren't a problem. If you only grow a few plants, spread them widely
>separated all over the yard to as to confuse the pest. Bob Randall for Urban
>Harvest
>
>



  • flea beetles.., Vicki Garland, 06/22/1996
    • <Possible follow-up(s)>
    • Re: flea beetles.., Vicki Garland, 06/24/1996

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