North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Lee Reich <leeareich@gmail.com>]

A variation on that is to pt a copper wire loosely around the graft union 
before you bury/mound it. The scion eventually roots and the wire eventually 
constricts roots below the graft to kill the rootstock.

Lee Reich, PhD
Come visit my farmden at
http://www.leereich.com/blog <http://www.leereich.com/blog>
http://leereich.com <http://leereich.com/>

Books by Lee Reich:
A Northeast Gardener’s Year
The Pruning Book
Weedless Gardening
Uncommon Fruits for every Garden
Landscaping with Fruit
Grow Fruit Naturally

> On Jan 8, 2017, at 8:34 AM, Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Jay, quoting his persimmon guru, "He had told me at first that you couldn't
> get named varieties on their own roots because they were too
> hard to make cuttings of".
> 
> This baffles me.  Why not just graft it on a hardy rootstock and bury the
> graft union or protect it with dirt mounded over it during winter?  I've
> read in Tukey's classic book on dwarf fruit trees that early American
> growers (educated hobbyists) used to use quince rootstocks for pears in
> climates too cold for quince by burying the unions.  This could be done
> temporarily over winter or permanently.
> 
> Also, I wonder if the graft unions would continue to be sensitive to
> extreme cold after a few years.  I can think of no reason they would be. It
> is not the same as using a cold sensitive rootstock.
> 
> I have a Szukis shoot growing that I grafted on a sucker from a Kaki
> grafted to a native persimmon rootstock that died back to the ground.  I'm
> protecting the union right now with a mound of soil.  I'm in a relatively
> warm Z6, but I'm not taking any chances- it is my first successful
> persimmon graft.  I find them quite challenging.
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex