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  • From: Eric Farnsworth <tropicofkansas@sbcglobal.net>
  • To: "nafex@lists.ibiblio.org" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [nafex] transplanting paw paws
  • Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 08:47:50 -0700 (PDT)

I have transplanted a number of suckers and seedlings, with varying degrees
of success with each.
Transplant shock is a major problem. As is coping with summer heat, sun &
dryness. 
What I do now is transplant in March or April when the leaves are just
budding. Dormant transplants have had about 50% survival, but budding
transplants do really well if they are not put where it is too hot & dry, and
they are adequately watered.
So, transplanting in the summer and stripping leaves sounds like a very bad
idea to me.
I don't transplant a sucker that is less than 2' tall either. That will give
better chance of having a taproot.
Also, my experience has been that paw paws require sun shading not just for
their first two years, but until they are 3' tall, however long that takes.
~Eric, NE KS, zone 6 now, mostly

Well, mIEKAL's take is certainly different from mine.  First of all,
let me say that I have never moved pawpaws because I don't like them
very much.  However yesterday I told Annie Black that I'd
try to dig some from a patch that has really good, banana like texture
instead of the usual pudding like texture.  There was an article in
Pomona years ago in which some guy said that he'd tried moving them
dormant with very low success, so he stripped them of leaves in summer
and moved them then, with 50% success. So I figured I'd try to do it in
July or August.  I figured that being tropicals, they'd act sort of
like peppers.  I have found that if I want to move pepper plants into a
pot and bring them inside in the fall, I had to do it in August or early
Sept, while the weather was still hot.  If I wait till it's cooling
down, I can't keep them hot enough to adjust and heal their roots.  One
year I did dig some sweet Habeneros (Southern Exposure still carries a
variety like them) in a very cold blustery day, and sent them down to
Florida with my mom, where they took off in the heat and lived for years.
      I think maybe one question we should ask is whether mIEKAL was
digging seedlings or suckers from an older tree.  I'd probably be
digging suckers.  It might make a difference.    Donna


On 7/2/2013 9:49 AM, mIEKAL aND wrote:
> I've dug up the tiniest pawpaw transplants and not had an issue.  For me
> the thing that made the most difference is that they were fully dormant
> when dug up.
>
> ~mIEKAL
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:12:21 -0500
From: mIEKAL aND <qazingulaza@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [nafex] transplanting paw paws
To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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I've always dug dormant suckers from specific trees.  I've probably moved
more than 50 of them that way....both to pots and to new locations in the
ground.


On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Kieran <holycow@frontiernet.net> wrote:

> Well, mIEKAL's take is certainly different from mine.  First of all,
> let me say that I have never moved pawpaws because I don't like them
> very much.  However yesterday I told Annie Black that I'd
> try to dig some from a patch that has really good, banana like texture
> instead of the usual pudding like texture.  There was an article in
> Pomona years ago in which some guy said that he'd tried moving them
> dormant with very low success, so he stripped them of leaves in summer
> and moved them then, with 50% success. So I figured I'd try to do it in
> July or August.  I figured that being tropicals, they'd act sort of
> like peppers.  I have found that if I want to move pepper plants into a
> pot and bring them inside in the fall, I had to do it in August or early
> Sept, while the weather was still hot.  If I wait till it's cooling
> down, I can't keep them hot enough to adjust and heal their roots.  One
> year I did dig some sweet Habeneros (Southern Exposure still carries a
> variety like them) in a very cold blustery day, and sent them down to
> Florida with my mom, where they took off in the heat and lived for years.
>      I think maybe one question we should ask is whether mIEKAL was
> digging seedlings or suckers from an older tree.  I'd probably be
> digging suckers.  It might make a difference.    Donna
>
>From mlevine@umich.edu Fri Jul 5 14:02:35 2013
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From: Mike Levine <mlevine@umich.edu>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 14:02:08 -0400
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Subject: Re: [nafex] [midfex] Transplanting Pawpaw Root Suckers
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I just wanted to elaborate on what I've done recently (this year) with
pawpaws.

I realize my sample size is small and I didn't use a control, but I had
great success digging suckers this spring.
Last year I cut the suckers from the mother on some but not all of the
trees I dug this year. Probably half of them got cut last year and half
were just cut this spring while transplanting.

This spring, a few weeks after bud break I dug 20 pawpaw suckers up from my
favorite tree and potted them up in large pots. The suckers ranged from 2'
to 12' tall. 19 of the 20 trees lived and the one that died was about 4'
tall. All the pots have been sitting in a hot driveway receiving weekly
watering. I believe that most of my failures in the past were due to not
watering enough after transplanting. Pawpaws like moist soils so it's hard
(though I'm sure it's possible) to over-water them

Recently I've planted some of them in the field and it seems as though the
feeder roots have grown nicely since the spring transplant. I'm quite
pleased with the results.

I was quite surprised that the 10-12' pawpaws responded so well to being
transplanted in pots (in pots no less!) and are thriving.

So there you have it, I successfully potted up 19 out of 20 suckers some of
which were cut last year and some of which were just dug up this year w/o
being cut last year. I do think it's a good idea to cut them from the
mother the year before, but I suspect that cutting them from the mother
before leaf out and them transplanting after bud break might be
sufficient.

No firm science here, as I'd prefer a sample size of at least 30 and would
have liked to pay more attention to which ones were cut last year, but I'm
convinced that it's not as hard to transplant pawpaws as some might think.

I have also been digging grafted seedlings from the field into pots for
about 12 years now and rarely have losses over 10-20%. Again, I do this a
couple weeks after bud break in the spring, but before the leaves are full
size.


Mike Levine
Ann Arbor, MI
Zone 5b




On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 1:39 PM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:

> There has been much discussion among Nafex members as to the best
> method to transplant Pawpaw root suckers. Myself, I would take several
> newly sprouted plants from Ron Malcom and plant them, being careful
> to keep as much of the original soil around the roots intact. It was Ron's
> belief that the soil contained certain microbes that the young plant
> needed to survive. Not all of these transplants survived, so I would
> refresh
> them from subsequent visits to Ron, over the years. Now, I have about
> six plants that appear to have taken, some being several years old and
> about three feet high.
>
> Here are some of the theories for the best transplant method from Nafex
> people:
>
> 1) Wait until the Pawpaw plants go dormant before moving them.
>
> 2) Unlike other trees, Pawpaws are more tropical and prefer to be moved in
> the warm months.
>
> 3) Transplant in March or April when the leaves are just budding and
> put them where
> it is not too hot and dry, watering them adequately.
>
> 4) Fibrous roots are not a prominent feature of Pawpaws, so digging and
> potting up
> would indeed potentially provide a more hospitable environment
> for new root
> growth and survival of the sucker.
>
> 5) Take a spade, go out about 12 inches from the seedling and insert
> the spade straight
> down completely around the sprout, thus severing the main root
> from the tree.
> Let it set one growing season that it can better develop it's
> own root system. Then
> transplant.
>
> 6) Transplant during the growing season, after bud break, but before
> the leaves
> get large.
>
> As one can see, there are many opinions on how to do this properly.
> There is some
> delicate balance on when to cut off the sucker plant from the mother
> tree. I think
> this is more of a factor than the weather or dormancy of the plant. As
> far as I know,
> there has been no studies of this issue by any authorities, and everyone
> seems to
> have their own method.
>
> In the Grapevine, Al Cosnow did not speak favorably of Pawpaws. Mine
> have not reached
> a state of growth where there could be problems in overspreading. I
> still look forward to
> growing this fruit that cannot be purchased in any store and has such an
> unusual taste.
> Al and others could dig and pot up some of these root suckers and bring
> them to
> the picnic for members to try and grow.
>
> Maybe some Midfex people would care to add to this myriad of opinions.
>
> Sherwin Dubren
>
>
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