North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Jwlehman@aol.com]

In a message dated 7/2/2013 12:55:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sherwindu@att.net writes:

> The tricky thing is to find a tree that is independent enough to make it 
> on it's own.          

I've been telling people to take a spade, go out about 12 inches from the 
seedling and insert the shovel straight down completely around the sprout, 
thus severing the main root from the tree. Let it set one growing season that 
it can better develop it's own root system then transplant.      
>From lpittman@murraystate.edu  Tue Jul  2 16:16:55 2013
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From: "Dr. Lucky Pittman" <lpittman@murraystate.edu>
To: "'nafex mailing list at ibiblio'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 15:16:47 -0500
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Subject: Re: [nafex] transplanting paw paws
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Most of the stuff I've seen printed in scientific/botanical publications
suggests that transplanting pawpaws (seedlings) shortly after they break
dormancy, or late in the summer, just as they're 'winding down' is best; as
the sole surviving temperate genus of a family of tropical plants, they
evidently do virtually nothing in the way of root growth/establishment
during the dormant season, unlike most of the deciduous woody plant species
common to the northern hemisphere.  Their thick, fleshy roots are quite
different from those of most temperate deciduous species  - though they do
resemble, to some degree (in my mind), those of the Magnolia species and
Liriodendron(tulip poplar).

Certainly, if I were going to attempt moving a sucker, I'd be inclined to
follow Jerry Lehman's model, and pre-dig a season or so in advance, to
improve chances that the sucker would actually have developed some roots of
its own.

Lucky