North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Christopher Kennel <ckennel@gmail.com>]

Thanks for the feedback Scott.  In the past I've used chip budding in June
through September with much success as long as the understock was fairly
young.  I couldn't get buds to do well when inserted into larger diameter,
older wood so I turned to bark grafting for these situations.  Usually I use
dormant scions when bark grafting, but this requires advance planning.  I'm
curious if one can bark graft on a whim with a fresh scion, and if so, what
techniques will help assure success.

Chris z5 CO


On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu> wrote:

> In the past few weeks I attempted several grafts.  I did two non-dormant
> apple budwood chip bud grafts, one of which succeeded and now has about 1"
> of growth, and the other was a failure.  I used a leaf with a fully formed
> bud visible at the base and removed the leaf from the chip - basically just
> like how a budwood graft is done in late summer only earlier.  These were
> chip budded onto green this-years shoots.  Three non-dormant persimmon buds
> all failed.  The green budwood I used had been knocked off in a storm and I
> think I found it too late. I also pulled the dormant scions out of the
> fridge and did three chip buds onto green persimmon shoots and it looks like
> one is a take, one I can't tell yet and one is a failure.  I also did an
> apricot wedge graft of a dormant scion onto a green shoot, and that worked.
>
> Chris, I would recommend that if grafting to a shoot to use a this-years
> green shoot, if at all possible, for better success.  Also I would consider
> trying chip buds, since the stock can keep growing it increases the
> likelihood of success.  You just bend it over in a few weeks to force the
> bud.
>
> Scott z7 MD
>
> On Jun 28, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Dr. Lucky Pittman wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> > I have done a couple of 3 or 4-flap 'banana' grafts of shagbark hickory
> onto
> > pecan understock, in early to mid-July in a similar manner; leaf petioles
> > snipped off back to near their base, with the previous year's growth
> being
> > the portion of the scion 'buried' underneath the rootstock bark, current
> > year's growth exposed above the graft union.  Entire union and scion
> wrapped
> > with multiple layers of Parafilm, then overwrapping the graft union with
> a
> > rubber band and covering that with aluminum foil.
> > Numbers are low, but I've got 100% so far - I'm 2 for 2.
> >
> >
> > Lucky Pittman
> > Hopkinsville, KY
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
> > [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Christopher Kennel
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 10:34 AM
> > To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Anyone tried bark grafting with non-dormant scions?
> >
> > In March I posted a question about trying bark grafting with current
> > season's non-dormant scions.  I thought I'd report what I tried and what
> > I've found so far.
> >
> > On Memorial Day I performed bark grafts on established peaches and
> Japanese
> > plums with dormant and non-dormant scions.  I used dormant scions for 6
> bark
> > grafts on plums and 6 on peaches.  Along side these I tested only 1 bark
> > graft with non-dormant material for each.  All of the plum grafts were
> > successful, but so far only 1 of the dormant-scion peach grafts have
> taken.
> >
> > I used the same technique for all the grafts with the exception of the
> > following things.  To help speed callousing and hopefully prevent the
> > non-dormant scions from leafing out too soon, I dipped both ends of the
> > scion in 0.1% indole-3-butyric acid.  I also cut all the petioles off the
> > non-dormant scions, and for both the dormant and non-dormant scions I
> > wrapped the entire graft and scion in parafilm to reduce dessication.
> > Lastly, for the peach's non-dormant scion, I used 1-year old wood whereas
> > for the plum I used this spring's new growth.
> >
> > Obviously I need to do more grafts to determine whether I just got lucky
> on
> > the plum or if what I did reliably works.  I think I'll experiment with
> > using this spring's peach growth to see if that impacts the results too.
> > I'm also not sure about the quality of my peach dormant scions since the
> > ones I used came from a dormant bare root three that I had ordered.  I
> have
> > some other dormant scions that I collected myself that I should try in
> order
> > to see if the problem was in my technique, the scions or something
> > particular to peaches.
> >
> > All the best,
> > Chris Kennel
> > Denver, CO (zone 5)
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Christopher Kennel
> > <ckennel@gmail.com>wrote:
> >
> >> When working with stone fruits in the past I've whip-and-tongue grafted
> in
> >> the dormant season and chip budded in the summer, but this year I'd like
> > to
> >> experiment with bark grafting.  Since I didn't collect any dormant
> scions
> >> this winter, I'm wondering what would happen if I tried to bark graft
> with
> >> non-dormant scions this summer.  To reduce transpiration from the
> grafted
> >> scions before the callouses form, I propose cutting the petioles very
> > short
> >> or off and wrapping the entire scion with parafilm.  I also plan to use
> > the
> >> scions soon after cutting them and could place them in water or wrap
> them
> >> with damp paper towels immediately after cutting them from the host
> trees.
> >>
> >> I've read that one can bridge graft with non-dormant scions in the event
> >> that a trees gets girdled, so it stands to reason that it may be
> possible
> > to
> >> perform other grafts with non-dormant scions as well.
> >>
> >> Has anyone else tried using non-dormant scions with grafting techniques
> in
> >> which dormant scions are normally used?  If so, what were the results?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Chris Kennel
> >> Denver, CO (zone 5)
> >>
> >>
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