North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>]

In the past few weeks I attempted several grafts.  I did two non-dormant 
apple budwood chip bud grafts, one of which succeeded and now has about 1" of 
growth, and the other was a failure.  I used a leaf with a fully formed bud 
visible at the base and removed the leaf from the chip - basically just like 
how a budwood graft is done in late summer only earlier.  These were chip 
budded onto green this-years shoots.  Three non-dormant persimmon buds all 
failed.  The green budwood I used had been knocked off in a storm and I think 
I found it too late. I also pulled the dormant scions out of the fridge and 
did three chip buds onto green persimmon shoots and it looks like one is a 
take, one I can't tell yet and one is a failure.  I also did an apricot wedge 
graft of a dormant scion onto a green shoot, and that worked.

Chris, I would recommend that if grafting to a shoot to use a this-years 
green shoot, if at all possible, for better success.  Also I would consider 
trying chip buds, since the stock can keep growing it increases the 
likelihood of success.  You just bend it over in a few weeks to force the bud.

Scott z7 MD

On Jun 28, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Dr. Lucky Pittman wrote:

> Chris,
> I have done a couple of 3 or 4-flap 'banana' grafts of shagbark hickory onto
> pecan understock, in early to mid-July in a similar manner; leaf petioles
> snipped off back to near their base, with the previous year's growth being
> the portion of the scion 'buried' underneath the rootstock bark, current
> year's growth exposed above the graft union.  Entire union and scion wrapped
> with multiple layers of Parafilm, then overwrapping the graft union with a
> rubber band and covering that with aluminum foil. 
> Numbers are low, but I've got 100% so far - I'm 2 for 2. 
> 
> 
> Lucky Pittman
> Hopkinsville, KY
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
> [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Christopher Kennel
> Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 10:34 AM
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Anyone tried bark grafting with non-dormant scions?
> 
> In March I posted a question about trying bark grafting with current
> season's non-dormant scions.  I thought I'd report what I tried and what
> I've found so far.
> 
> On Memorial Day I performed bark grafts on established peaches and Japanese
> plums with dormant and non-dormant scions.  I used dormant scions for 6 bark
> grafts on plums and 6 on peaches.  Along side these I tested only 1 bark
> graft with non-dormant material for each.  All of the plum grafts were
> successful, but so far only 1 of the dormant-scion peach grafts have taken.
> 
> I used the same technique for all the grafts with the exception of the
> following things.  To help speed callousing and hopefully prevent the
> non-dormant scions from leafing out too soon, I dipped both ends of the
> scion in 0.1% indole-3-butyric acid.  I also cut all the petioles off the
> non-dormant scions, and for both the dormant and non-dormant scions I
> wrapped the entire graft and scion in parafilm to reduce dessication.
> Lastly, for the peach's non-dormant scion, I used 1-year old wood whereas
> for the plum I used this spring's new growth.
> 
> Obviously I need to do more grafts to determine whether I just got lucky on
> the plum or if what I did reliably works.  I think I'll experiment with
> using this spring's peach growth to see if that impacts the results too.
> I'm also not sure about the quality of my peach dormant scions since the
> ones I used came from a dormant bare root three that I had ordered.  I have
> some other dormant scions that I collected myself that I should try in order
> to see if the problem was in my technique, the scions or something
> particular to peaches.
> 
> All the best,
> Chris Kennel
> Denver, CO (zone 5)
> 
> On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Christopher Kennel
> <ckennel@gmail.com>wrote:
> 
>> When working with stone fruits in the past I've whip-and-tongue grafted in
>> the dormant season and chip budded in the summer, but this year I'd like
> to
>> experiment with bark grafting.  Since I didn't collect any dormant scions
>> this winter, I'm wondering what would happen if I tried to bark graft with
>> non-dormant scions this summer.  To reduce transpiration from the grafted
>> scions before the callouses form, I propose cutting the petioles very
> short
>> or off and wrapping the entire scion with parafilm.  I also plan to use
> the
>> scions soon after cutting them and could place them in water or wrap them
>> with damp paper towels immediately after cutting them from the host trees.
>> 
>> I've read that one can bridge graft with non-dormant scions in the event
>> that a trees gets girdled, so it stands to reason that it may be possible
> to
>> perform other grafts with non-dormant scions as well.
>> 
>> Has anyone else tried using non-dormant scions with grafting techniques in
>> which dormant scions are normally used?  If so, what were the results?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Chris Kennel
>> Denver, CO (zone 5)
>> 
>> 
> __________________
> nafex mailing list 
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subscribe, unsubscribe, change your user configuration or find out more
> about the list here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/
> 
> __________________
> nafex mailing list 
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subscribe, unsubscribe, change your user configuration or find out more 
> about the list here:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/