North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Christopher Kennel <ckennel@gmail.com>]

I'm not a persimmon grafter, so feel free to disregard what I'm about to
write if there are special, persimmon-specific grafting techniques.

It sounds like you're working with dormant scion material.  If this is the
case, then I'd try bark grafting.  It's an easy technique, and I believe Joe
Real (google his tutorials on the technique if you're new to it) has used it
with great success for persimmons.  If your problem was the bud running out
of reserves before the callouses adequately formed, perhaps using a scion
stick would provide additional reserves.  You can still use techniques to
shade or keep the scion moist if necessary, but on stone and pome fruits I
haven't found this to be necessary.

For budding, I use the current season's (non-dormant) growth, and I've had
better results later in the summer when buds are more mature.  Often these
buds remain dormant for the remainder of the summer and then grow out the
following year.  It is possible to force the buds out of dormancy if you bud
in the earlier part of the summer by partially cutting the understock and
bending it over above the bud.

All the best,
Chris Kennel
Denver, CO
zone 5

On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 11:57 PM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:

> Steven,
>
> Hard to tell exactly how you are doing these bud grafts, but it almost
> seems like you are wrapping the
> entire graft with parafilm.  I would wrap the parafilm around the bud
> stem leaving room for the growing
> bud to grow out.  Seems like yours had to poke their way out, which
> could have affected their success.
>
> Also, if you suspect the buds dried out, you can make a tent out of a
> plastic bag with a piece of damp
> toweling and keep it on from grafting time to whenever the bud looks
> like it is succeeding.  The parafilm
> wrapped tightly around the bud stem should keep it from drying out.  I
> would not put these grafts in
> the sun until the bud is showing some green leaves.  Even then, I would
> moderate the amount of sun
> they get.
>
> You did not mention which rootstock and scion combinations you tried.  I
> find that some scions and
> are more vigorous than others, and there could be rootstock
> incompatibilities.
>
>                          Sherwin Dubren
>
> On 6/8/2011 10:50 PM, Steven Covacci wrote:
> >
> > Dear Group:
> >
> >
> > I'm new at grafting, and much else: I'm having problems with the results
> of my grafting weeks back..
> >
> >
> > The majority of the grafted scion-wood has now budded and, as expected,
> the buds break through the parafilm.
> >
> >
> > However, this is what's happening.. Within a few days of breaking
> through, the buds blacken and dry and, then, die-off.  This is the case with
> most of the (persimmon) grafts.  However, in the case of two grafts (out of
> 12), unlike the others, the buds broke through the parafilm and then opened
> up fully and are doing great (at this time, at least) - maybe the wood was
> better, maybe the graft union is better, no idea?
> >
> >
> > I have two theories:
> >
> >
> > 1. The buds are only dying because the graft-union was not sufficiently
> flushed so they are only budding because there is enough fluid and energy in
> the scion-material itself to bud and then die-out, because there is not
> enough connection to the under-stock.  Evidence that it is possible for the
> wood to bud on it's own, without being well-connected to the under-stock is
> that today, I found an 8" piece of persimmon scion-wood that was laying on
> the ground that was completely viable and budding - I tossed that piece to
> the ground 2 weeks ago!
> >
> >
> > 2. That, in most cases, once the buds break through the parafilm, they
> will dehydrate in the heat - regardless of the fact that I made tin-foil
> hoods for them all to prevent the parafilm-wrapped scion-material from
> boiling in direct sunlight.
> >
> >
> > If it is theory No.1, then not a problem.  I just need to learn how to do
> a better job of grafting; this will not be easier w/the new grafting tool I
> just got.  If it is theory No.2, I better quickly make homes for the grafts
> - maybe use the produce bags from the supermarket, for when the buds break
> through the parafilm.
> >
> >
> > What do you think is reason and what should I do?
> >
> >
> > Also, a second question is: my mulberry grafts (like last year) get
> mildew on them when wrapped in parafilm; what should I do - not cover them
> with parafilm?  If not, then maybe I won't need hoods (made of tinfoil wrap;
> some use brown paper bags)?
> >
> >
> > If I can't get this right, this will be a waste of a ton of
> scion-material and another year delayed in doing this.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve; NJ 6a/7b
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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