North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Brungardt, Sam" <Sam.Brungardt@state.mn.us>]

Dale, lthough I have a large bush of Crandall in my yard and have propagated Ribes nigrum cultivars from 8-10” dormant hardwood cuttings (from previous year’s growth) stuck directly in my garden in early spring, I’ve never tried propagating ‘Crandall’.  Propagation methods for it may be different than those for black currant (R. nigrum).  ‘Crandall’ is often classified as a buffalo currant, R. aureum var. villosum (a.k.a.  R. odoratum.)

 

Here is some info from the Plants for a Future web site (http://www.pfaf.org/ ):

 

Seed - best sown as soon as it is ripe in the autumn in a cold frame.  Stored seed requires 3 months cold stratification at between 0 and 5°c and should be sown as early in the year as possible[113, 164].  Under normal storage conditions the seed can remain viable for 17 years or more.  Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them on in a cold frame for their first winter, planting them out in late spring of the following year.  Cuttings of half-ripe wood, 10 - 15cm with a heel, July/August in a frame[78, 113].  Cuttings of mature wood of the current year's growth, preferably with a heel of the previous year's growth, November to February in a cold frame or sheltered bed outdoors[78, 200].  Division of suckers in the dormant season.  They can be planted out direct into their permanent positions.

 

I hope this helps. – Sam Brungardt, St. Paul, Minn. (USDA Hardiness Zone 4b)

 

 

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dale Burkholder
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 12:23 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Rooting currants

 

Lon & everybody else;
I found an old email on my computer with some advice about rooting currants. I am planning to start 100-200 Crandall currants for sale in the spring, and would like to know if I am interpreting these instructions (below) properly.

My idea is to wait another month until dormant, then cut 6" sections of new growth (or is last year's growth also okay?), place them 4-5 inches apart - about 2/3rds buried in the ground in an unheated greenhouse, add a few inches of mulch for insulation and wait until spring.
Or, Plan B, assuming the roots won't grow much anyway until spring, can I just cram them in a big ol' feed bag full of sand/soil mix with tops sticking out and leave outside in the snow and rain until March and then plant them in pots?

Dale Burkholder
Shenandoah Valley, VA   Zone 6
If I did learn to speak proper English, who would I speak it to?



At 05:57 PM 5/13/2003, Lon wrote:

That's about the worst time to root them.  Once the buds break, the cuttings won't root.  Much easier to wait a few weeks and root some green cuttings under mist.  Or take dormant cuttings in the fall and plant them in moist sand on the sheltered side of a building.  When they leaf out in spring they are rooted and can be set out.   I used to do it for a big berry nursery. 
-Lon Rombough

From: Tom Olenio <tolenio@sentex.net>

Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>

Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 18:34:42 -0400

To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>

Subject: [NAFEX] Rooting ribes

Hello,

What is the best method to root currants early in the spring, when the plant is no longer dormant?

Thanks,

Tom

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