North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Anthony Curcio <apc@vassolinc.com>]

Jwlehman,
Thank you for your reply about persimmons and pointing me to the NAFEX 
membership. I am embarrassed to say I'm not sure if I have ever visited the 
site or thought about this forum being supported by member dues. I wonder if 
I am alone in this universe or if there are others (from distant 
planets?)that benefit from these topics that could use a friendly reminder 
like myself.
Thank you JW, my check is on the way to Ms. Vorbeck.
Anthony

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: persimmons - How to ripen them. (Robert Bruns)
   2. Re: Protecting fig trees in winter (mIEKAL aND)
   3. Re: Other American Persimmons (Jwlehman@aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 11:45:47 -0400
From: "Robert Bruns" <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] persimmons - How to ripen them.
To: "Dr. Chiranjit Parmar" <parmarch@sancharnet.in>,    "North American
        Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
        <8a6f6e940810170845p56f62f6ch381b019c99547f48@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

An easier way to ripen an astringent persimmon is to put it in a plastic bag
with an apple.  The apple releases ethylene and in a few days the persimmon
is ripe.  I get the impression that red apples work better than green ones.
Maybe the green ones stay green because they don't release ethylene?

I can't remember where I read about this trick.  I've been using it for
years.

Fred

On Thu, Oct 16, 2008 at 10:06 AM, Dr. Chiranjit Parmar <
parmarch@sancharnet.in> wrote:

>  Hard fruits of Japanese varieties of astringent persimmons like Hachiya
> can be induced to ripen with Ethrel or Ethephon.  The treatment is effective
> even when the fruits are 80% green.
>
> Prepare a 100 ppm solution (even 50 ppm will work if the fruits have turned
> all yellow) and dip the fruits in it for two minutes.  Then store the fruits
> in a cardboard carton.  Open after 72 hours and they will be perfectly ripe
> to eat.
>
> You can even sell treated fruits to your customers and tell them to wait
> for 72 hours.  The ripe fruits can be stored in the refrigerator after these
> are ripe.
>
> However take following precautions:
>
>    - Prepare only small lots of solution as it does not remain effective
>    after one hour.  So prepare a fresh lot after every hour if you have many
>    fruits to treat.
>    - It will be better if gloves are used white dipping the fruits as in
>    case of some persons (not all) contact with ethrel solution can lead to 
> mild
>    pain in the hands.  This is of course temporary and goes after 30-40
>    minutes.
>
> Dr. Chiranjit Parmar
> www.fruitipedia.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Deb S <debs913@gmail.com>
> *To:* nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 16, 2008 6:03 AM
> *Subject:* [NAFEX] persimmons
>
> We have several native persimmon trees on our and our neighbors
> properties.  The trees are big -- 50+ feet tall.  The first year we were
> here I spotted some fruit on a lower branch.  Wasn't quite sure what it
> was.  My husband was taken aback when I tasted it :)  Puckered me right up!
>
> Once the fruit falls, it is ripe and very sweet and tasty.  If I can beat
> the deer and squirrels to it, it is quite a treat.  The fruit is small, the
> size of a large marble, and a kind of carmel orange color.  Trees tend to
> bear biennially.
>
> deb
> SE Ohio zone 5ish/6ish
>
> ------------------------------
>
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 11:14:46 -0500
From: mIEKAL aND <qazingulaza@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Protecting fig trees in winter
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <5A469BB0-2FFD-48E3-BB93-3B57402B4200@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, it gets 25 to 35 below every year here.  The only way I can keep
them alive is to put them all in a basement.  I have about 100 trees
in 5-7 gallon containers & it fills the whole basement of one of our
houses.  Someday the heated greenhouse will make life a lot simpler..

~mIEKAL


On Oct 17, 2008, at 10:00 AM, Bassem Samaan wrote:

> Container grown fig trees can be stored in a cool greenhouse, or in
> the garage. I normally keep the trees that are smaller than 1 gallon
> in my cool greenhouse where the coolest temperature is 40degree.
> Fig trees grown in anything over 1 gallon containers are moved into
> an attached garage. I move the trees after the frost which allows
> the trees to go dormant first.
> Fig trees that are in the ground must be protected in areas where
> temperatures go below 15F. There are many methods for protecting fig
> trees. Timing is important, if it's wrapped too early in season and
> kept too late, it will run the risk of molding. for my area I wrap
> the tree around thanksgiving, and uncover it by ending of March.
> I personally  bend the fig tree to the ground when it's less than 3
> ft tall, and place an old carpet over it and a coat of mulch. Larger
> fig trees should be pruned down to around 6 ft, tied with a rope,
> and wrapped with insulating material. Don't wrap with clear plastic,
> that will cause the heat to build up and kill the tree. I use an old
> carpet and building insulation, then I use a tarp in top of it.
> This is based on my experience here in zone 6, in colder areas just
> pray for a mild winter.
> I hope that helps.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bass Samaan
> http://www.TreesofJoy.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mIEKAL aND" <qazingulaza@gmail.com>
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] fig varieties photo
> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 08:45:21 -0500
>
> Where do you store all of your container figs in the winter?
>
> If your Brooklyns get large enough to propagate I'd love to get a
> couple cuttings.  But if you have 80 varieties, I probably don't
> have anything to trade with you tho... :)
>
> ~mIEKAL
>
>
> On Oct 17, 2008, at 8:40 AM, Bassem Samaan wrote:
>
>> I grow over 80 varieties of figs here. Most of them are in
>> containers, but I have around 10 fig trees in ground.
>> The Brooklyn varieties are 2 cuttings were selected from an old
>> Italian neighborhood in Brooklyn. Those figs were there for at
>> least 30 years, from what the neighbors their are telling me. They
>> have never been wrapped or protected in winter. So I named them
>> Brooklyn White, and Brooklyn Dark to tell them apart.  Brooklyn
>> White has a nice honey like flavor, and the size is pretty large.
>> Too much rain will spoil the figs for sure. Some fig varieties will
>> split immediatly after a rain fall , some are somwhat resistance.
>> I have discriptions to the varieties I have on my website.
>> http://www.treesofjoy.com/myfigs.htm
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bass Samaan
>> http://www.TreesofJoy.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "mIEKAL aND" <qazingulaza@gmail.com>
>> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] fig varieties photo
>> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 07:15:40 -0500
>>
>>
>> Are your trees in the ground or in containers? Where did you get the
>> Brooklyn varieties from? I've never heard of them.
>>
>> I have 10 or so varieties that produced this year (in containers) in
>> Wisconsin but we had kind of a cold wet summer so it'll be a
>> challenge
>> to ripen them before the cold sets in here. Conadria is still my
>> favorite...
>>
>> ~mIEKAL
>>
>>
>> On Oct 17, 2008, at 7:01 AM, Bassem Samaan wrote:
>>
>> > We had a warm week in October here in Pa. My fig trees enjoyed iy
>> > and yesterday I picked a nice crop.
>> > Here's a photo of some of the figs I picked with the name of the
>> > varieties.
>> >
>> > http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Bassgarden/Bass%20Garden/PA170428.jpg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Bass Samaan
>> > Bethlehem, pa
>> > zone 6
>> > http://www.TreesofJoy.com
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 12:36:15 EDT
From: Jwlehman@aol.com
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Other American Persimmons
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID: <c9d.357722af.362a18ff@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 10/16/2008 10:22:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
apc@vassolinc.com writes:

> A second tree planted at the same time seemed to have died off but has now
> come back to life possibly from below the graft. Any thoughts on whether or
> not it will produce ? We have pruned it and it is actually a pretty nice
> looking tree. Can anyone recommend other cold hardy varieties? We are 
> hooked on
> this little fruit.
> Thank you, Anthony

Hi Anthony,

Keep in mind the American persimmon is dioecious, male and female plants.
With a seedling the chances of getting a female are 50/50. However, I'd submit
less than that.

The reason I say that is males are generally more vigorous than females.  All
persimmons are grafted to seedlings. In the nursery row generally the most
vigorous are grafted and the smaller seedlings discarded. Therefore the 
chances
are greater your rootstock is staminate.

Keep in mind the problem growing American persimmons in your northern IL area
isn't lack of cold hardness, rather shorter growing season. The 90 chromosome
American persimmon ranges naturally up to about I-70. I believe the limiting
factor isn't hardness, rather shorter seasons limited the seed maturity or
viability. The range ended where viable seed production ends.  Earlier 
ripening
varieties (shorter season) have been found  and many should work in your area.
There are NAFEX & MIDFEX persimmon growers in the Chicago area that can affer
advise on short season varieties. Some of the Claypool varieties successfully
ripen fruit in your area.

Receive much more grower information by joining NAFEX. Receive the quarterly
publication POMONA with many short articles written from member experiences.
No where else can you get so much for so little. Membership is only $19.00
annually. WWW.NAFEX.org


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