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- From: "Mark & Helen Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
- To: <lishimuro@yahoo.com>, "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards
- Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:34:31 -0500
Hi Lisa,
I've tried several methods of grass control under
trees. Initially planted flowers and herbs under trees to create a habitat
for beneficial insects. There is a lot of information on the internet
about plants that attract beneficials. Weeding the flowers turned out to
be a tremendous amount of work, and I figured out organic fruit culture
doesn't work in this area.
Glyophosate does a good job keeping grass down
under the trees. Grass really sucks up water, so the trees need to be
watered more if grass is allowed to grow underneath them. Some
disadvantages of chemical burndown are that it doesn't allow as much organic
matter in the soil over time. If weeds/grass/plants are never allowed to
grow, there is little organic matter to add to the soil (only the trees leaves
and roots). To combat this, I've seen it recommended to allow the
weeds to grow later in the season to add organic matter and to help the tree
shut down for winter. Another disadvantage to chemical burndown is that
some trees sucker bad (especially some plum rootstocks) and you can't spray
under the trees. Additionally, you want to make sure you keep glyophosate
off the trunks of young trees, and perhaps even older trees. Some
commercial guys use a shielded sprayer to keep it off the trunks.
I use a combination of mulch and glyophosate.
The mulch really conserves moisture (which was a disadvantage with all the rain
we got this year) and of course chokes weeds. It also puts more
organic material in the soil. The disadvantage is it's labor
intensive. Availability hasn't been a problem for my small
orchard.
On scaffold height, I initially thought I wanted to
keep the first scaffolds high to be able to protect fruit from animal
pests. Now my thinking is, the heck with the pests, I want the fruit as
low to the ground as possible. Paul Friday said it best, "Your only going
to grow 6 feet of peaches [vertically, the fruit zone is 6 ft.] do you want to
grow them close to ground level, or 15 feet in the air?"
There is a peach orchardist about 30 miles from
here that I stay in pretty close contact with. He starts some of his first
scaffolds at 12". If his trees get too tall, he takes a chain saw to them
to get them down (I know as I write this, there are folks cringing, I admit
I am too, but so far it works for him. Farther north where peach
growing is more challenging, I'm sure it wouldn't work. Also he is on a
full spray program, so borers are not an issue.) The point is he keeps his
trees low.
As far as pests stealing fruit, the
squirrels have actually done me a favor this year. My one acre lot is
pretty much all fenced and a rat terrier roams the lot. I think the
squirrels and I have come to an agreement. I throw all my cull fruit
outside the fence, they eat the culls, and stay off my trees. So far it's
worked. I may still trap a few this winter though, to keep the population
down. After all, you can never really trust a thief.
Mark
KS
|
-
[NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Lisa D. Ishimuro, 08/22/2008
-
Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Mark & Helen Angermayer, 08/22/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, Hilborn . E, 08/22/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, dmnorton, 08/22/2008
- <Possible follow-up(s)>
-
Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Clifford Cain - uk yahoo, 08/23/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, Stephen Sadler, 08/23/2008
-
Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Erdman, James, 08/25/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, Clifford Cain - uk yahoo, 08/25/2008
-
Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards,
JAMES ELIE, 08/23/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, Mark & Helen Angermayer, 08/24/2008
-
[NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Alan Haigh, 08/28/2008
- Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards, Eddie Earles, 08/28/2008
-
Re: [NAFEX] mowing orchards,
Mark & Helen Angermayer, 08/22/2008
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