North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Alexander Dragotin <a_dragotin@yahoo.de>]

Hi Alan,

Some years ago I intended to graft pear on hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) with quince interface. To succeed in one year I grafted first the quince on the hawthorn rootstock early in February. To be able to make the cut for whip-and-tongue connection on the rootstock exposed on the ambient temperature below 32 degree Fahrenheit I took the last part of the rootstock in my mouth and lick up to the temperature of the rootstock end was over 32 degree. Weeks later, after the buds of the grafted quince piece started to swell I grafted the pear on the quince piece.  The double connection took and I got my pear tree on the low vigor hawthorn rootstock only in one year ready.

Not all pear varieties are compatible witch quince, but the first grafted compatible variety can be extended to everyone other.

Have a good luck in your trials!

Alex


----- Ursprüngliche Mail ----

Von: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
An: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Gesendet: Donnerstag, den 20. Dezember 2007, 00:33:44 Uhr
Betreff: [NAFEX] grafting and frost

By NAFEX standards I don't consider myself a master grafter by any means.  Last few years I've done a couple hundred grafts a year, I guess and I'm pretty much self-taught.  I always do my grafting of pears and apples just as the trees start to bud out in early April as I've read to do.  Our last day of likely frost is about May 6th so you can give or take a week or two on that.  I've never lost a graft to frost even though they start to bud out in two or three weeks after grafting as I remember.

-----Integrierter Anhang folgt-----

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