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- From: "Mark & Helen Angermayer" <hangermayer@isp.com>
- To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting prunus (as opposed to budding)
- Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 21:10:01 -0600
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Jerry,
Question on the aluminum foil. Do you
know how high temps have to get to be adverse to callusing? If I
remember right the Nafex handbook said something about temps above 90 degrees
can cause graft failures. So would the grafts reach those temperatures in
the springtime without shade?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 1:01
PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting prunus (as
opposed to budding)
Hello Tom,
I've successfully grafted
plums and cherries in the spring after active growth has begun, when the bark
is well into the slip. I've used both the whip & tongue and bark graft.
Wrap the entire graft with Parafilm and if in full sun a loose wrap of foil to
reflect the sun's rays.
A problem with cherries is they break bud in
the frig.at temps same as early spring. Maybe 45 degrees is too warm. Store
the scion wood very cold, just above freezing.
Jerry
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